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That's what I use.
AGM batteries usually require a minimum charging current of around 2 Amps according to the Oddysey information. Many tenders won't do this.
I would echo John's point, charge it every 3 or 4 weeks. Unless you pull the main fuse or disconnect the battery the ECU will discharge it in little over a month.
The one thing which kills these tiny batteries is deep discharge, but also they contain very little fluid, so any heat build-up from...
Batteries can certainly be an issue.
But my experience gives another possibility.
Did the wiring mod years ago, but still had problems. Battery was well charged.
I replaced the wire from the start relay to the solenoid with one twice the gauge (and twice the current carrying ability).
Not had a...
No benefit at all. You are ultimately limited by the output of the alternator. If you take more out of any battery than you are putting in, it will die eventually.
There is also the danger of one cell going down in one battery which will then discharge the other battery.
The only safe way to...
The heavier gauge the wire, the better it works. Adding an extra one just adds to the overall cross section, so it will help. And as John said, use one of the 8mm bolts on the starter for best connection. That 6mm one holding the plastic cover has caused many problems for many owners.
My dash looked dead when I turned on the ignition, nothing.
The fault was the switched 12v supply to the dash, a small connector by the steering head, not the big multipin one on the back of the dash.
Are you sure it's power not getting to the ECU? When I had this problem on my earlier Norge, it was power not getting to the dash. Turned out to be a connector by the steering head under the front of the tank.
I think oil is a red herring.
It won't be connected to the fuel filter either anyway as when they go, they go, no second chance of restarting.
My money would be on the cam sensor, unless you are very unlucky and both ignition coils are failing.
Look for Osram Nightbreaker series bulbs, or the Phillips equivalent. Up to 100% more light on the road, no modifications and straight swap. Other manufacturers also make similar bulbs, still same power, so road legal wherever you are.
I bought an electrovalve which can shut off the air supply from Ebay, needs to be a large enough bore, otherwise cold starting is difficult.
I controlled mine from a thermal switch bonded to one cyclinder head, so it shuts off automatically when the engine is at 70 degrees celcius. Also fitted...