• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Anyone ride their V7III with Traction Control off..?

Maj Steve Trevor

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Contributor
Joined
Sep 19, 2017
Messages
137
Location
Washington DC
If so, how has it gone? This is the first bike I've ever owned that actually has traction control! It's not that much different, but I have to say it feels a little weird to me at times. The dealer advised me against turning it off, even though I said I was used to bikes without it. He said it wouldn't be the same on this bike, but not sure that makes sense to me. Anyway, just curious if anyone has spent any time with the TC turned off...
 
Yes, I turn mine off the minute I start it each time. The TC is a legal mandate, not because the bike needs it power wise. I suspect there's a few instances where it might be good to have on, but for the most part it infuriates me personally (even on Mode 1).
ABS on the other hand, is damn good on the V7 III... and I’m not a huge fan of it typically either. All said with a tremendous amount of professional riding and racing experience under my belt.
 
Yes, I turn mine off the minute I start it each time. The TC is a legal mandate, not because the bike needs it power wise. I suspect there's a few instances where it might be good to have on, but for the most part it infuriates me personally.
ABS on the other hand, is damn good on the V7 III... and I’m not a huge fan of it typically either. All said with a tremendous amount of professional riding and racing experience under my belt.

What I wanted to hear... Thanks.
 
The default is level 2, which is the most sensitive. I set mine to level 1.

I've only noticed it activated once, I was pulling out from an area that had gravel, it was kind of weird with dash light flashing, bike responding odd, but then things went normal as I got on the pavement ... it wasn't like I was dropping the clutch at 5k rpms! Just pulling out like normal (but on gravel).

So my thinking is if Level 1 doesn't bother me, and one day it helps prevent some bad-ish situation, why not leave at 1.

If you get the Moto Guzzi Media Platform then theoretically you can go back and see when TC was activated on your ride. I was thinking about getting this but the few reviews I could find were pretty bad (like the software really doesn't work).
 
Agree with Todd about the Guzzi ABS really a great system.
I have it tuned off on my Victory because it is JUNK!
The whole brake system is at best adequate.
If I had the xtra bucks I'd convert it to Brembo's & a linked system.
 
My feeling with all these kinds of things: if they don't distract and if they have the potential to be a benefit, I leave them on. I don't really care whether they're federally mandated or whatever. That's a different battle on the political side of things, for which I have different rules. :)

- I set the TCS system to level 1 ... level 2 was firing off when it wasn't needed, level 1 has only fired in two situations where it was an aid.

- The ABS system is excellent: I've tested it intentionally (I always like to know how my brakes are going to behave at the limits of traction, car or bike) and it worked extremely well.

As an aside: It is far more scary to test the limits of braking traction on a motorcycle than it is with a car. :D
 
I keep mine at level 1, and actually appreciate that the one time I had a flat rear tire (when I had tubes in the OEM spoke wheels), it caused the bike to stutter so much that I had to slow down to figure out what was amiss. Then I saw the warning light as I came to a stop. Other than that time, I haven't really noticed it.
 
I keep mine at level 1, and actually appreciate that the one time I had a flat rear tire (when I had tubes in the OEM spoke wheels), it caused the bike to stutter so much that I had to slow down to figure out what was amiss. Then I saw the warning light as I came to a stop. Other than that time, I haven't really noticed it.
I assume you did the silicone trick to get rid of the tubes.
 
What trick? what tubes? Huh? :)
Around fifteen + years ago, word had it that you could high-temp RTV seal spoked rims and get rid of the tubes, with the sacrifice in knowing that if the spokes came loose, you'd have to start over. I have done this now for my personal bikes, at 6+ years and counting, after a solid track record of many I trust who verified the durability. The stock Alpina Stelvio/Griso wheels leak ~4-5 psi/week, whereas the RTV sealed wheel I did loses 0~1 psi max over any amount of time I check it - and this is after 3-4 tire changes in that time as well. This isn't a service I offer, but you can find how it's done via Google.
 
Ah, you were talking about tires ... I was thinking about brakes. :)

I would only consider such stuff if the Guzzi wheel rims were have the correct bead retention design for tubeless tires. And even then... Although more expensive, I'd rather buy wheel assemblies designed for tubeless tires from the outset.

Just my odd notions of confidence and safety kicking in there, no disparagement.
 
Around fifteen + years ago, word had it that you could high-temp RTV seal spoked rims and get rid of the tubes, with the sacrifice in knowing that if the spokes came loose, you'd have to start over. I have done this now for my personal bikes, at 6+ years and counting, after a solid track record of many I trust who verified the durability. The stock Alpina Stelvio/Griso wheels leak ~4-5 psi/week, whereas the RTV sealed wheel I did loses 0~1 psi max over any amount of time I check it - and this is after 3-4 tire changes in that time as well. This isn't a service I offer, but you can find how it's done via Google.
Todd, is it necessary, do you think, to use hi-temp RTV, or would the ordinary stuff work?
There's usually rubber band around the inside of the rim covering the spoke nipples. Did you silicone the nipples and then put the rubber band in place before the silicone set, or after?
 
Last edited:
Todd, is it necessary, do you think, to use hi-temp RTV, or would the ordinary stuff work?
There's usually rubber band around the inside of the rim covering the spoke nipples. Did you silicone the nipples and then put the rubber band in place before the silicone set, or after?

I don't know why you'd use high-temperature RTV. That is usually designed as sealant for engine covers and such where the temperatures are hundreds of degrees, not the kind of temperature a wheel rim assembly would ever reach.

I'm also curious as to why you'd put the rubber protective band in. That's used to protect tubes from the spoke ends and nipples and is surely unnecessary if you're running tubeless tires...?
 
I'd put the rubber strip back in & make sure it had a good thin coating of sealant to keep it in place.
Seems to me that might be an xtra level of seal.

But then again most things that I have learned in life came about from "doing it wrong" the first time.
 
Boy I don't know, maybe I am imagining it, but as someone who basically has never ridden for any length of time before on a bike that had traction control, I feel like it's kicking in in minor ways quite a bit. I do almost all city riding, with lots of potholes, pavement grooves, metal construction sheets, etc, and seems like it gives annoying little blips on those sorts of things quite a bit. (I've had it set on 1 since buying it, per the dealer's recommendation.)
 
Your environment seems much like mine, a good bit of the time. I don't find these issues at all. Level 2 did a bit that, but Level 1 seems really good ... only activates when there's something actually being a problem.

Why not just try turning it off to see how the bike responds with it off and compare?
 
Why not just try turning it off to see how the bike responds with it off and compare?

That's the plan, but with winter weather just haven't had the chance to ride lately.. Having said that, today and tomorrow it will be 70 degrees apparently! Could ride to work this morning, but may do so tomorrow.
 
Ah, our "California Perpetual Spring" weather has gone East ... It was like that for two and a half weeks here. But this week has turned to Winter again, with overnight temps in the thirties and daytime temps in the 50-55 range. Of course, Racer had to be down with a bad battery for nine days during the warm weather... sigh.
 
Yes, I turn mine off the minute I start it each time. The TC is a legal mandate, not because the bike needs it power wise. I suspect there's a few instances where it might be good to have on, but for the most part it infuriates me personally (even on Mode 1).
ABS on the other hand, is damn good on the V7 III... and I’m not a huge fan of it typically either. All said with a tremendous amount of professional riding and racing experience under my belt.

The following is all said with absolutely zero professional riding and racing experience under my belt! :giggle:

Seriously, I have only ridden two motorcycles with TC: my Stornello, with only a few over 2K miles, and my brother's V7 III Special. I am only aware of the TC (probably) kicking in once on the Stornello, and not at all on the Special.

That sole experience happened at a disguised -- almost invisible 'til I entered it -- muddy section on an otherwise seemingly solid dirt road in nearby West Virginia -- BTW, as a typical digression from me ... you have no doubt wondered why W.V. likes to refer to itself as "Almost Heaven." Well, of course, it is ... because it's next to Virginia. :rofl::rofl::rofl:

NFUQPvyQqa5dZ5JaEU3qw thumb 596f

So, as I was saying before I interrupted myself with that nitnoid, there I wuz, one second humming along and the next screaming in my helmet as I rolled into about a three-inch-deep slime pit. I did not brake, but -- more as sort of stunned mullet non-reaction -- accelerated a bit to keep moving out of it. I really think the TC kept me upright, but recognize, as with the classically wrong "I laid 'er down," that I may be thinking what happened than what actually did. I was too busy screaming to check the dash for the telltale TC flashing light. But I do think I felt the throttle act "funny."

My brother, however, complains about the TC being intrusive, yet in 200 or so miles when riding his on back roads in Virginia, Maryland, W.V., and Pennsylvania, I don't think it ever kicked in. I sure didn't notice anything of the sort I mentioned above.

Now, after reading the OP's I have to wonder if his D.C. home, with its "almost all city riding, with lots of potholes, pavement grooves, metal construction sheets, etc.," is not a factor. My brother reports similar effects and he lives near the literal epicenter of Atlanta.

So, while I defer to Todd and any others who turn off TC for whatever reasons, I'm leaving mine own cuz on the one occasion it (may have) kicked in, it was, IMO, a positive event. If -- and I hope the "if" never happens -- I am riding in a major urban area, I'll see if makes any difference.

Bill
 
Back
Top