Thank you Scott, I will try that technique first. Looks easy. Thanks also for the ceramic coatings link.
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Thank you Scott, I will try that technique first. Looks easy. Thanks also for the ceramic coatings link.
I'm worrying about the cam I and did realize I have to check. Next stage of delving in to this project.
I knew when I started this could go to very long lengths to make the 10 year old Breva a new motorcycle. I'm not wanting to go any further with the engine. Do you think I need to look at mains and big end shells. I didn't think I would have any nasty surprises on the valve train but I did. I have examined big end shells before on a car, many years ago. My feeling is they should be OK. Just a feeling as I have followed oil and filter changes and I rarely stress the engine. I really don't want to go there.
Um. I thought that was the next step. 28k miles. I know about plastigauge but not used it. I will research and buy some.How many miles are on the bike? Considering what the followers look like, It would be a good idea to inspect at least the connecting rod shells and the crank journal. Do you have plastigauge to check the connecting rod to crank clearance? Much easier than using a micrometer.
Scott. I tried your method. I think there are 8 bolts on the rear wheel. 5 released and I stripped 3 hex bots. Partial success in my case. Sorry if I didn't hit hard enough but I gave it a try after seeing you excellent video.
I think I will replace the shells anyway as one set has the extremity polished and might be a little worn. I have got this far so might as well do a complete job. Judging by the shells being largely OK, do you think I should check the main journals? If you say I should then I might as well have the crankcase powder coated by a professional. If not I will 2-pack epoxy it by hand application.