• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Delayed cranking/starting when pressing starter button

bmwone

Just got it firing!
Joined
Aug 26, 2010
Messages
12
I have a 2007 Norge which has a problem when starting. Often it takes several seconds to begin cranking after the starter button is pressed. Sometimes it doesn't crank at all. The problem seems worse in cold weather - one time the headlight failed to come on after starting as well. Battery is brand new and connections were all cleaned and reassembled.

I'm thinking it is perhaps a relay, but I can't make any sense of which one it is. Any thoughts out there?
 
Thanks for the input - I'll give this a try - sounds plausible.
 
The other thing which could cause this is that the grease around the solenoid plunger has gone dry and sticky. This happened to mine. However, I would expect the B fuse to blow if this were happening.
Simple to fix, remove starter motor, remove solenoid case, clean out inside and round the plunger. Then smear a little oil on the plunger before reassembly.
 
Please no oil on the plunger - that's what causes it to gunk up in the first place. THIS ITEM SHOULD BE DRY!
 
A smear of light oil is far better than the grease they used on original assembly. It is a sealed unit so there should be little risk of crud getting in there to foul it up. Grease, on the other hand, dries out when it gets hot, and goes sticky. Raises the point, why do Bosch use grease?
 
Back
Top