• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

EBC Double H brake pads

daytripper

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jan 12, 2012
Messages
22
Location
Rhode ISland
I just put pads on the front and rear of my 2009 non abs Stelvio and have an issue with the fronts. The rear is working fine but the fronts are really spongy feeling. I took a couple of laps around the block and the lever is still very soft. I can squeeze the lever almost all the way to the bar. They stop but don't feel right. When I got home I put the bike on the center stand and spin the wheel the front brakes aren't releasing like the originals did. They seem to drag a bit more. I put the old pads back in and the lever is back to normal feel and I can't squeeze the lever to the bar as with the EBC pads. On the center stand the wheel spins better like the brakes release better. Anyone had this issue with these pads??

Thanks
Phil
 
I would check that the EBC pads are flat. Maybe they are flexing a small amount and are pushed flat on braking, but returning to slightly bent and dragging on the disc.
 
A great many of the non-Brembo pads aren't exact copies of the Brembo backing plates, causing them to bind. This is what sounds like what might be happening... Also, I recently tried replacing pads on a Kawi 250 with EBCs, and the thickness would not allow the rotors to fit in without binding, even with the pistons buried in the caliper body. Also to note, keep a close eye on the rotors with these pads if you end up run them. They are very good highly aggressive compounds, but they are very hard on the disks.
 
Thanks for the replies. These pads were the only pads that the local Guzzi dealer carried for the bike. I try to buy local when I can. I'll measure the old pads and make the new ones match and try them again. If that doesn't work I'll buy a different set from an other source.
 
Longshot but worth a try.....is it possible that when you put the EBC pads in the fluid level in the reservoir is too high and causing pressure on the MC piston and forcing fluid on the other side of the piston and equalizing the pressure on both sides. When you put the new pads in, the caliper pots will have to go back and put fluid in the MC. Don't think this is even possible as you would think the fluid would blow out of the lid but find it weird that even if the pads were too thick, why would the lever go soft. Try taking a little fluid out of your reservoir. Would explain the dragging pads and soft lever. Worth a shot??
 
just a fyi, you will be replacing the rotors with the next set of pads...ebc hh pads annihilate grimeca rotors (these rotors are in expensive ad if not abs then there are lots of options for donors). Did you clean the calipers with a ph neutral soap and water (ivory dish soap) and a tooth brush. this leaves a film of lanolin on the piston that helps keep the seal in great shape when you push the piston back in. even with this you have to carefully bleed brembos at pad changes. Did you hit the back of the pads with copper as as well as the pins and shims? If you accidently had flipped the shim the pads on these calipers can stick and not relax correctly. (also if there is any corrosion on the pin, replace the pins these calipers like to drag with crusty pins.
 
Update. I took the old pads out one side at a time. I compared the pads to the new and found they were quite close to the same dimensions. I slowly squeezed the pistons in just enough to slide the new pads in place. I pumped the lever and the lever felt good. I spun the wheel and it was free. I then repeated the process on the other side with the same result. Took a quick ride and all seems well. I have changed many pads in my many years and never had this happen. Go figure. I'll monitor rotor wear every 2000 miles

Thanks
Guys
 
Back
Top