• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

ECU error 44

Good question, all these error codes leave a great deal to be desired for information. I sure wish the engineers had put the codes in plain language instead of cryptic code. The Breva service manual used in training states 44 is "relay starter C.C, Vcc" Just as ambiguous but does point you to the starter relay circuit.
 
Yes, I had sort of guessed that, and the only part of that the ECU can check is the coil continuity and volts. That relay is controlled from the ECU directly, so I have to start thinking this might be an ECU fault. This is on a Norge, but not my own I'm pleased to say.

Maybe the ECU multi connector could do with a wiggle and clean.
 
Other than the error code, are there any symptoms that might lead to a solution?

Edit: My list of error codes for the CARC bikes says error 44 is "Relay starter C.C. Vcc" which I assume is lack of 12v at the relay.
 
Last edited:
Bike wasn't starting. This error code was active.
It had previously blown the 15A fuse B a couple of times.

From the wiring diagram the relay coil gets it's supply from pin 17 on the ECU, but that also supplies the secondary injection relay and the RH handlebar switchgear.

The error cleared but came back the moment the start button was pressed.
 
Hmm, I'm reading the wiring diagram a little different. I believe the ECU gets its power from the main relay to pin 17, as well as the starter relay and others you mentioned. Pin 1 of the ECU will activate the starter relay by providing a ground to activate the starter relay coil. A simple voltmeter test at pin 1 (easier at pin 2 of the starter relay) would confirm this.

Fuse B often blows as result of startus interruptus, and may be a red herring.

My $0.02¢.
 
Ah, I see what you mean. Fuse D supplies that power originally, and the main injection relay is energised from the ignition switch.
Worth checking fuse D. I guess the ECU expects to see volts on pin 17 and throws the error if not there.

Yes, I think fuse B is another issue. It turned out the solenoid was a bit gummed up.
 
So can anyone work out why when the ignition is turned on the usual cycle happens, the fuel pump primes, but the moment the start button is pressed the service light comes on and error 44 is displayed in diagnostics?
 
Brian UK said:
So can anyone work out why when the ignition is turned on the usual cycle happens, the fuel pump primes, but the moment the start button is pressed the service light comes on and error 44 is displayed in diagnostics?
Click to expand...


My guess is voltage drop. Have you verified the condition of the battery? I would guess a load test of the battery is in order. It may have surface voltage, but when a load is applied voltage drops below acceptable limits.
 
I've had the problem with a low battery on my Norge, but never had this error 44 come up.
Problem is we don't know exactly just what the ECU is checking, and how much tolerance in the parameters. We also don't know were the wires go inside the ECU from the terminals concerned.
The error suggests there is no voltage (or insufficient) on the start relay, but this must be on the actuating coil, not the contacts. If it were the contacts everyone who has done the startus interruptus mod would have been reporting error44 first.
But pressing the button is not engaging the starter anyway, so there would be no load on the battery to drop the volts.
 
Brian UK said:
I've had the problem with a low battery on my Norge, but never had this error 44 come up.
Problem is we don't know exactly just what the ECU is checking, and how much tolerance in the parameters. We also don't know were the wires go inside the ECU from the terminals concerned.
The error suggests there is no voltage (or insufficient) on the start relay, but this must be on the actuating coil, not the contacts. If it were the contacts everyone who has done the startus interruptus mod would have been reporting error44 first.
But pressing the button is not engaging the starter anyway, so there would be no load on the battery to drop the volts.
Click to expand...
Still would check the battery like John recommend to rule it out.
 
And if the battery is good, then the startus interruptus mod should be performed. It sounds like a severe case, and the volts at the starter relay are dropping below the minimum for the ECU (I think it's around 8 volts), prompting the service code.
 
But would the volts drop that amount with no load? Remember the starter motor is not being powered. And the lights on the dash would also go out surely? Others have reported this in severe battery cases.
 
Last edited:
Well connect the solenoid spade terminal direct to the battery and it starts perfectly, so no battery problems, but press the start button and service light comes on.
But it now transpires the start relay wiring mod has not been done, so we will see if that solves the problem.
Never known that error come up for this before though.
 
When you push the starter button you are not actually triggering the starter relay, you are only requesting that the ECU trigger the starter relay. If the ECU does not see the minimum voltage it requires it will not trigger the starter relay. That is why the Starter Interupus issue happens, and it sounds like that is what your issue is.
 
So the wiring mod to the start relay has now been done. Connecting the solenoid spade direct to the battery works, but still the moment the button is pressed, no click from the relay and the service light comes on with error44 recorded.
It can't be the battery volts. But for some reason the start relay coil is not being energised and an attempt to do so results in the error code.
As I've said, this isn't my bike, and it's not local to me so it all gets difficult. But it is starting to look as if there might be an ECU or ECU connection problem. If we just knew exactly where the ECU was looking for this voltage it would help.

In the Startus Interruptus situation, the start relay is usually energised, but not enough volts get to the solenoid to make it go full travel. That's why it's also referred to as the "click, no crank" syndrome. Putting a direct feed to the relay contact raises the voltage. I've never heard reports of the error 44 coming up when the button is pressed.
 
I reckon the voltage at both sides of the starter relay coil should be monitored with a voltmeter. Before the button is pressed, but the key is on, both sides of the relay coil should be at battery voltage. When the starting button is pressed, terminal 2 of the relay coil goes to earth, courtesy of pin 1 of the ECU.

If the voltage readings are not displaying this, then there will be the clue what the issue is.

It could be a problem with the ECU, but more likely an issue with corrosion on the ECU connector.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top