• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

New owner - Engine oil questions

What about the cap thermometer I've seen, I prefer less stuff bolted, and try to stick with just what I really need, but if that has proven valuable, I'll do it
 
v7flier said:
What about the cap thermometer I've seen, I prefer less stuff bolted, and try to stick with just what I really need, but if that has proven valuable, I'll do it
Click to expand...
I purchased the dipstick thermometer for my 03 Cali SS because the factory stick was cheap plastic and was warping, its nice to know engine is running at 180 whenever i check.
 
v7flier said:
I have a 2013 V7 Stone. Bought used. I'm new to motorcycling. I have a really basic question (and probably more to come). In return for being allowed to ask basic questions, I will donate some money to this site for each question that I get fully answered. I aspire to know how to properly maintain my motorcycle.

Oil Change Questions:
  1. I have a front well stand, which stands the bike up straight. But, it raises the front wheel slightly, is this a problem when checking oil, getting an accurate reading?.
  2. I got some 10w 40 synthetic motorcycle oil to top up. I put in about 400ml. I didn't use 10W 60, like the manual says (guy at parts stored didn't have any, and said this 10w 40 would be fine?) Could this oil weight cause a problem with this engine?
  3. After adding oil, I thought I may have added too much, so I used a turkey baster to remove some, I may have removed too much though I didn't think so at the time. But, now the oil light is on. Could 10w 40 make that light go on?) I hesitate to warm the bike up with the oil light on, and can't now get a good read on oil level. What would you have me do now? Just keeping putting in 10w 40 until light goes out, then ride it and check. This is assuming 10w 40 is ok? Or do an oil and filter change and use 10w 60? Perhaps flush with some oil during the change?
  4. Since I bough the bike used, perhaps I should do an oil change anyway as a baseline?
  5. Are there any common practices, or possible pitfalls that I should know with oil filling and changing?
Thank you very much for any and all advice.
Click to expand...

Is this a white 2013? I sold my white 2013 to a Russian guy last year (Rocklin). If it's my bike it should have the extended sump on it which means you can get an extra 3/4 quart of oil into it. That could be why the oil is only showing up on the tip of the stick. I still have a racer seat and gel seat for that bike if you are interested.
 
JACoH said:
I'm thinking you should download the service manual for your bike from this forum.
Click to expand...

I signed up with the site exactly for that reason. The big conundrum started when I took out the filter. What I had in parts, and what was in the manual didn't match. I had extra parts. My lack of experience was the reason for no answer. Once all back together (and was a bit unsure how to do it, true be told) and full of 2L of oil, no oil light on, I though I was good. Then 1 ride, warm up the oil and check, it was showing not much on the stick. Finally someone mentioned it might have an extended sump, and the penny dropped. That was why the extra spacer for the filter, and why the low oil measurement. Easy, more oil. All good. In hindsight, I should have distrusted the manual for that filter part when my parts didn't match the manual's diagram. Live and learn.

Interestingly, I rode to work, and on the way, I heard this loud tapping on the left coming from the motor. I finally worked out that the bolts that hold the exhaust on the head were loose. Funny, as I was suspecting something I did wrong with the oil. Totally unrelated. An allen key tighten up, and all is good, I hope.

But, then on the way home my front brake because to squeak on hard braking. This is going to be a long learning curve.
 
If you are worried about the wheel stand raising the front higher than the rear; put something under the rear wheel to level it.
 
v7flier said:

****

This is going to be a long learning curve.
Click to expand...

Indubitably, but, IMO, worth the slog.

Sixteen years ago, I bought my first Guzzi. Immediately smitten, I still have four of the five I've gotten along that fun road.

More relevantly, what I knew about ICE's generally, much less about motorcycle engines and other aspects of making them tick (and tink :rofl:) would have fit into a thimble. Now, while hardly a tech or as talented or skilled as so many others here, I have learned so much and am grateful for my new knowledge.

Welcome to the campus. ;)

Bill
 
v7flier said:
Interestingly, I rode to work, and on the way, I heard this loud tapping on the left coming from the motor. I finally worked out that the bolts that hold the exhaust on the head were loose. Funny, as I was suspecting something I did wrong with the oil. Totally unrelated. An allen key tighten up, and all is good, I hope.
Click to expand...

Those bolts comes loose QUITE often...make sure you torque them up properly if your dealer/last owner hasn't...

we had to jimmy something for my buddy's racer because he lost one of the bolt when we were out and about.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top