• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Smallblock (V7C) oil level check problem (?)

bilv7

Just got it firing!
Joined
Mar 5, 2009
Messages
18
I just went to check the oil level on my V7C (1500 km already) after a short (15 minutes) ride. Held it straight, unlocked the oil tap - dipstick and checjed after 5 minutes.

But, the dipstick does not resemble by any means what the manual depicts. There is not a MAX line, neither a MIN line.
Lookinh at it carefully and logically one can make out 2 zones : the red one and the yellow one as I have painted in the picture.
In which zone should the oil level be ? red one or yellow one ?

And another thing for that matter. On all my previous motorbikes (Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha) you should just rest the oil tap - dipstick on the "ridge" and not screw it in. V7 manual does not state what to do, so I just did what I always have done. I also enclose a picture of thi procedure. Is that correct ?

I guess Breva 750 owners can help here. It is the same bike after all :lol:
 
Thanx a lot ! So I guess you screw in the tap one turn and try to keep the level near the top of the "raw" criss-crossed area ?
 
You screw the tap in 'till the end
and you try to keep the oil-level in what you called "zone 2"

Christiaan
 
Just to reassure yourself, next time you change the oil, check it then with the dipstick in whatever position you prefer, then that is where the oil level should be. Personally, I wouldn't have any of the small blocks without getting the Guzzitech sump spacer, cheap enough. Stock volume is just too small, ok if full, but just too close to the danger zone should you be significantly below full for any reason. More than one small block motor has been torched because of this. Spacer increases volume greatly, 1-1.25 qts additional over 1.75 qts stock, leaving a lot more margin for error before bad things can happen. Big blocks don't have this potential problem.
 
Boy do I remember this issue! The wildguzzi post Christiaan refers to shows my desperaration at the time. In fact I was checking in the "red zone" for awhile. And I just new something was wrong. And my oil level shot into that zone quite a few times in the beginning as my bike was consuming oil (still is but less). That lead to my mounting the Sumpspacer after Anders came to the rescue with those great pictures and measurements. Then when I changed my oil at 7.500 kts and mounted the Sumpspacer I was able to confirm Anders' measurements. On the money.

So, yes, your oil level must be in the YELLOW ZONE. You must screw the dipstick in all the way. With the Sumpspacer installed I'm happy in the middle of the yellow zone. Remember that you must not overfill either. So middle of the yellow is fine. And I don't mind checking it hot or checking it cold. The slight variance won't matter much. I recommend the Sumpspacer for that reason alone; that extra liter of oil could be a lifesaver for the engine. Otherwise, do check that oil often, especially while the bike is new. And get some good oil in there. These babies run very hot.
 
Back
Top