• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Throttle Lag...

I've got a 2013 and my TPS burned up and had to be replaced.
Can you expand any on this? The ECU has an onboard TPS, so that means the Throttle Body/ECU would have to be replaced. Is that the case?
 
No....that sensor on the left side forward midway into the case.... maybe they call that the CPS...sorry. That one burned up somehow. They put anew one on and then re-flash with the newer download that helped with cold starting. Notice the bike is richer on a cold start these days. One thing I have noticed you really need to change the spark plugs on these bikes about every 5,000 miles or they start to foul out.
 
Well after riding the bike for longer time periods, the issue is still there. I'm going to request that the first service be redone as the minor tinkering has not helped in the long run. The engine periodically sits at a higher RPM at rest (2000 RPM). I really hope this can be fixed by redoing the first service and does not turn into a problematic bike. One of the main reasons I bought the V7 was for it's reliability!
 
The engine periodically sits at a higher RPM at rest (2000 RPM). I really hope this can be fixed by redoing the first service and does not turn into a problematic bike.
The ECU has an onboard Stepper Motor that controls idle. It might take ECU replacement, which is a warranty item. Also, it is noted that the throttle body should NEVER be spray-cleaner cleaned. It will damage the circuit board, as the stepper motor air tract has direct access to it.
 
Could the clamps that hold the ecu on be loose on the engine side and air entering? I once had a efi snowmobile with a air Leake and it made it have a high idle. Just a thought
 
Could the clamp that holds the ecu on be loose on the engine side and air entering? I once had a efi snowmobile with a air Leake and it made it have a high idle. Just a thought
Leaks prior to the manifold seem to not effect the idle, and if the bike is new, shouldn't be the case... but always worth a look.
 
Found the issue.

Drum role please....faulty O2 sensor thing-a-majig. Apparently it's not reading the temperature correctly, which causes more fuel to be sprayed...thus giving me the throttle lag. Obviously a warranty thing.
 
The O2 sensor is in the exhaust and reads the amount of oxygen present in the gasses, not the temperature. It sends that info to the ECU which adjusts the duration of the injector opening times. The engine temp sensor is on the RH cylinder, well it is on my Breva.
 
Could have the part name wrong. Either way, whatever the thing is called that reads the temperature to determine how much fuel is required is faulty.
 
How did he determine what the fault was. Did your dash show any warnings. I am not familiar with the V7 but I would think that either a faulty O2 or engine temp sensor would throw a fault to your dash (it does on the Stelvio but not sure of the V7 logic) especially since the O2 sensor is emissions related.

Usually a faulty engine temp has an ECU default value that the it will run at if the sensor drops out (again the Stelvio does) so the affect is minimal if it fails. On mine it is ambient temp plus some factor. Unless the cable is grounding out, they either fail or work. Usually no in between. I had it disconnect on mine and the only way I knew was by the fault light it threw. Bike ran perfectly fine.

I am hoping you are out of the woods, but something is telling me there may be more to this story. I am still betting on your TPS or some mishap at your service. Seems a little too coincidental that it happened after your service.

Did they replace the part and it is now working?
 
In short, he plugged the bike into the computer. The computer ran a diagnostic and showed the error. I could be confusing the faulty part with the O2 sensor.

No, the part will be ordered next week. I'm not a mechanic, but the explanation and the error code on the computer makes sense to me.
 
Lambda sensor...I believe that's the faulty part.

That is the O2 sensor. It does not read engine temp...or any temp for that matter. It regulates the amount of fuel that goes to the engine based on the amount of O2 in the exhaust (basically what Kevin NZ just said). It does that using a heating coil in the sensor element. Perhaps he meant to say that the heating coil is not working. Lets us know the results when you get it in.
 
I will circle back once the part arrives! In all honesty, I was only half paying attention. I was being treated as a member of the Italian family ( ie. Espresso with a hint of Sambuca and stories of how one bike is not enough) haha.

Will keep everyone updated.
 
One good point about the EFI systems the fact they can be diagnosed by a computer throwing codes. Much better then the carb days when you stood around scratching your head replacing parts until you hit pay dirt. Although carbs do have simplicity, not a whole lot can go wrong with those systems. End run for carbs, they were about or are about as dependable as an anvil. I'm still adjusting to this EFI stuff, I still read stuff like this thread and sometimes feel like the systems are just to damn complicated. Sort of like trying to figure teenage girls out.
 
That can be a great thing about EFI, its ability to tell you what is wrong. But it is a limited ability. It can be mis-leading as well. Sometimes the ECU tells you what it thinks is the problem but what it really only knows is what the symptoms are. The ECU only knows what its sensors tell you. Sometimes the part it thinks is bad is not actually the source of the issue but only a symptom.
 
With carbs, you had to figure out what was wrong. With EFI, well, ECUs to be more precise, sensors identify faults. There really aren't mechanics that can diagnose much anymore. All they do is R&R what they read off a screen.
 
Here is an example of what I mean.
I had a Buell that was running poorly and throwing a code. The code said bad O2 sensor, so the O2 sensor was replaced. The problem did not change, for better or worse. I dug into it deeper, employing some "actual troubleshooting" and found that the rear injector was sticking. The sticking injector was throwing so much fuel into the rear cylinder that the O2 sensor, which read only off the rear cylinder, was giving values pegged on the rich side. When the ECU leaned out the mixture and the O2 sensor reading did not change the ECU assumed that the O2 sensor was bad. It was not.
Trouble codes can tell you what is wrong, but they don't always tell you what you really need to do unless you apply some brain power.
 
Keep in mind this new bike went in for the 1st service running fine and came out not running fine. Short of someone accidently snipping a lambda wire I have this bad feeling that their all seeing wizard (Computer) may be misleading them. I am not one for coincident. My bet is on a mis-adjusted valve clearance, damaged sparkplug or plug wire or a fault with the ECU from the update. I hope I am wrong
 
Last edited:
I had one of my spark plugs separate from the plug threads when removing. Everything porcelain came out and just the plug threads stayed in the head. Used a easy out inserted in the plug and screwed right out easy.
 
Back
Top