• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

V7 Clutch Cable R & R--HELP!

robertllr

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
45
Location
Virginia, USA
According to Gutsibits ... (here)

http://www.gutsibits.co.uk/pr/TheSh...Nevada+750+(2004-2013)&Cat=CAA&CatName=Cables ...

The clutch cable for the 2013 V7-R , part number 883940, has 145 mm of free length.

I'm not sure where this free length is measured from, but here is a pic of the free length of my cable...

CIMG2454

You can just barely see that the calipers are opened to 145 mm. You can also see a good 10 mm of extra inner cable length.

Now either (a)the specs are wrong, (b) I'm measuring from the wrong place, or (c) I've got 10 mm of stretch in my cable.

I should also point out that the handlebar adjuster was run out all the way, (the bike has only about 2000) miles on it) and clutch engagement/disengagement was taking place with the clutch lever end barely 3/4 inch from the grip.

On top of that, the clutch pull is the stiffest I have every encountered in any bike (by a country parsec) that I've owned or ridden--including what I always felt (until now) was a bear trap on my 1968 Triumph Bonneville.

I am amazed and dismayed that the engineers have a metal ferule on this cable that forces it into a 90 degree bend--right at the bars. The cable is then forced to follow the most tortuous route to get to the clutch actuating arm. The stiction in my removed and unloaded cable is very high; In use and under tension, it must be an order of magnitude worse.

Heavy clutch actuation was a common complaint from testers--and now I can see why.

What the pics don't show are several kinks as well as cuts in the outer sheathing where the cable was forced past the headlight ears, between the forks, over the river and through the woods.

Then, when the poor thing finally gets to the arm...THERE IS NO ADJUSTER AT THAT END!!!!

I have wrenched and owned dozens of bikes and I have never seen--till now--a set up without an adjuster at the lower end of the clutch cable. I'm pretty sure the only reason I could get the cable off in the first place is because either its' stretched or (heaven forbid!) my clutch is already wearing out.

So I'm thinking the only way I'll ever get a new cable in is by applying forward pressure to the clutch arm, thereby disengaging the clutch and creating enough slack to slip the cable end into the fork.

So, any help here? How do Guzzistis change their clutch cables?

P.S.: While the parts book shows an adjusting screw between the arm and the clutch rod, (a) I don't' think that will give me any more cable slack; and (b) How the blazes does one get to it???
 
Another thought:

Rather than buy an OEM replacement clutch cable, I'd like to have one made up by one of the houses that does custom cables. My design woudl have a straight handlebar end, and an adjuster into the other end. It could also specify a low-friction lining

To do this, I would need someone with access to a fresh spare cable to measure the indicated distance and let me know what it is:

CIMG2459

With that info I could advise the maker of the required dimensions and specs for the proposed cable.

Then, if the new part cures the problem, I could order a small run of cables, which I would provide at minimal profit over my own cost to anybody who would like to try one.
 
Last edited:
Based on your pictures your cable has the correct free length.
I would not go off on some quest for a custom cable, if you are having a problem I would figure out what is wrong.
I don't have a V7 but as a rule cable operated clutches have at least two places of adjustment.
You may want to find out more about how your clutch works.

My wife has a V65 Lario (closest we have to a V7) and the clutch on it is light and easy.
 
You are exactly correct: "...cable operated clutches have at least two places of adjustment." But the V-7 clutch is adjustable only at the handlebar and at the lifting rod. The cable should also have a screw adjuster at the abuttment end of the cable, as in this picture below of a Moto Guzzi California clutch cable.
Cali cluthc cable
Notice also the straight attachment at the bar end. This is what a clutch cable should look like.

Since you state unequivocally my cable has the correct free length, I assume you somehow know for certain what the free length for a V7 clutch cable is supposed to be?
 
Robert,

When we had a 750 Breva, it used the curved piece at the handlebar end. Clutch was easy to operate. With the degree of bend required to run down the center line of the bike, the curved piece is pretty much required or there would be too much bend in a flex cable and the inner would cut through the outer sheath. Go with a stock cable, but be careful with the routing. Others have been successful by re-routing the cable. To adjust the cable at the gearbox, it is helpful to get the bike on a lift to have better access. It is my guess that the small block bikes don't have an in cable adjuster at the clutch end is that it would be inaccessible once installed,
 
The correct Guzzi part number for the clutch cable for '13 V7 Stone/Special models is B063427. It has a solid, curved section at the handlebar end and no built-in adjustment at either end. The adjustment system that is part of the hand lever system provides all the adjustment range needed, if the lever at the lower (engine) end is correctly installed.
 
There is, in fact, more than enough room for an adjuster; moreover, it would be completely accessible, as you can see from the (blurry, sorry) pic below.
CIMG2500

Incidentally, what looks like part of the cable end next to the crankcase boss, is actually a stack of three washers I cut and inserted to take up some of the cable slack while I am waiting for Motion Pro to make up my properly designed clutch cable.

As for the cable routing, of course, I can't speak to the situation with the Breva (that you no longer have); however, as you can plainly see from the pics below,
CIMG2489
the L on the V7 (which I do have) is not only not necessary as you suggest, but quite the opposite; it forces the cable sharply down over the headlight ear. A slightly longer cable (as I have specified) will make a nice easy sweep under the headlight, and across to the right side of the bike to continue the factory routing under the headstock over the regulator rectifier, between the V and on to its destination.

CIMG2490

CIMG2494

(Not that it is material here, but I have read on this list what some owners have done to reroute the clutch cable. The only thing I see is that people have tried to keep it off hot hot cylinders to avoid burning the outer cable insulation. Perhaps that is what you were thinking of?)

I am not one for speculation, so I will not blame bean counters or too much red wine for these engineering choices. Whatever the reasons, they are simply wrong. If you were actually working on a V7, as I am, I am sure you would agree.

Also note the (blurry again, sorry) picture of the threaded adjuster for the lifting rod.
CIMG2503
The nut is not too inaccessible, but the threaded adjuster screw is smack up against the swing arm. Fortunately Guzzi machined a flat into the end of it, so with a suitable fabricated wrench-like tool, the screw can be turned when the nut is slackened.

The bad part for me, is that it seems like the screw has been turned in almost all the way, so there is little adjustment left to take up the slack left. This is ye another reason why not having a cable adjuster was a very bad idea from the standpoint of maintenance.

Finally, I must confess that serendipity has played a part in helping me cure my heavy clutch. While I was tinkering with the clutch arm, the arm return spring fell out. I tried to squeeze it...and failed! The thing is stiff as a valve spring. Well, not really It is about an inch long and takes 20 lbs of force to compress it to half that length, and another 10 lbs till the coils bind.

I reassembled the clutch system--omitting the return spring and now with some of the slack taken out at the bottom en end my jerry rigged spacer, and routed the cable as rationally as possible. the clutch pull is now reasonable, though quite heavier than that of my Daytona 675, still significantly lighter than the old Bonnie.

I can now adjust the free play so the clutch engagement and disengagement takes place closer to midway of the clutch lever operating arc. A test run shows no slippage.

So last step, besides the new custom cable will be to install a lighter return spring.

However, I probably won't post about it here again, as there seems to be little interest in my experiments, and what replies I have gotten seem more slanted to make the responder look wise and make me look stupid.

Ciao.
 
The correct Guzzi part number for the clutch cable for '13 V7 Stone/Special models is B063427. It has a solid, curved section at the handlebar end and no built-in adjustment at either end. The adjustment system that is part of the hand lever system provides all the adjustment range needed, if the lever at the lower (engine) end is correctly installed.


I rest my case.
 
It is nice to see that, while you continue with your quest for a custom cable, you also seem to have addressed what is likely the cause for the cable length issue, that being the adjustment of the clutch. I am not sure about your other findings, but I also am not going to worry much about your return spring. I don't agree with your custom cable approach, there are too many of these bikes out there with no clutch cable issues for there to be such a fundamental design issue with the clutch cable. I would, as has been suggested already, consider re-routing your clutch cable. The stock routing does seem to leave something to be desired.
Best of luck to you.
 
It is nice to see that, while you continue with your quest for a custom cable, you also seem to have addressed what is likely the cause for the cable length issue, that being the adjustment of the clutch. I am not sure about your other findings, but I also am not going to worry much about your return spring. I don't agree with your custom cable approach, there are too many of these bikes out there with no clutch cable issues for there to be such a fundamental design issue with the clutch cable. I would, as has been suggested already, consider re-routing your clutch cable. The stock routing does seem to leave something to be desired.
Best of luck to you.
It's pretty easy to prevent the cable casing from contacting the cylinder head: loop a nylon zip tie around the cable but don't tighten it. Hook the loose tie over the conveniently located hook under the frame tube (provided by Moto Guzzi but mysteriously not used). Then tighten the tie until the cable is nicely positioned away from the cylinder head.
 
I'll be curious how the custom cable works out. Do I think adjusters on both ends are needed, no. But I do agree the routing off the bar to where it semi kinks around the headlight is just a bean counter trying to use an existing cable. I know Motion Pro makes really nice cables and while I currently do not own a V7 I may in the near future and I am always up for a lighter clutch pull.
 
Good luck. I think you might be deceived by the angle at which the bend was photographed in that pic. A web search for that Guzzi part number turns up several other images that show a 90 degree bend.
 
Yes, I know that is the standard part number. The thing that made me think it might be different is the rubber boot which does not look like the one on my bike. In any case, my current cable is stuck between two cylinder fins, so I think I need to replace it anyway,
 
I'm having the exact same issue with clutch cable routing. Just had a new cable installed since my last one was toast after 3000km's. Already seeing the kink starting to develop...which will inevitably cause premature failure once again. What ticks me off the most is the shop installed the cable this way stating it was proper approach...yet here I am now, with the same f'ing thing starting to happen.
 
Finally, I must confess that serendipity has played a part in helping me cure my heavy clutch. While I was tinkering with the clutch arm, the arm return spring fell out. I tried to squeeze it...and failed! The thing is stiff as a valve spring. Well, not really It is about an inch long and takes 20 lbs of force to compress it to half that length, and another 10 lbs till the coils bind.

@robertllr I am so glad I found this thread you started. This is the exact problem I have on my V7R as well and all of you on this thread have give me the knowledge I need. I may not install a new stock cable myself (I'm only a month new at motorycles) but if I end up going to a dealership I will have a lot more confidence in explaining what I need.
 
So, I had my clutch cable snap the other day on my v7R and just got the new one in from Guzzitech and tried installing but no matter what I tried its just too short to secure on both sides, is there something I'm doing wrong? If i secure the bottom first I don't have enough length the get the cable into the clutch lever and if I secure the lever first I don't have enough cable to get the casing in to secure correctly. Unless somebody knows some stupidly simple thing I'm forgetting to do I'm caving and bringing it up for Todd to tell me what absurdly minute thing I missed when installing
 
Hi Alex, best to install the transmission side first, then remove the lever from the perch to install. It cannot be done otherwise. There's likely some YouTube videos online on the process with other models if you care to search.
 
Back
Top