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V7 II ENGINE FAILURES & CLUTCH ADJUST NOTICE!

Wouldn't the engine serial number be more helpful since the motor is used for several different models? Mine isn't confirmed yet but my engine # is 014776
VIN# is more important as to identify a production range that is/was affected. Motor #'s will change, but also worthy to note here, sure.
 
I thought maybe it might be a tight series of defective motors rather than randomly over time. If mine is confirmed I'll list the VIN
 
IMG 2903 Reading a lot about clutch adjustment and faulty axial thrust bearings I decided to do some measurements on my 2015 V7 II (2200 miles).
I started with a loose clutch wire at lever behind gearbox. Using my caliper acc. to loaded picture I measured 77,2 mm (3.05") between clutch lever and boss for unloaded lever. Pushing lever to engagement I measured 76 mm(3") Thus a 1.2 mm (0.05") play at lever before engagement.
Play at clutch grip was set to 2 mm from resistance from clutch engagement.
With recommended 2 mm grip clearance, wire was tensed at gearbox lever play. Play at lever when pressed against clutch engagement was measured to be between 0,3 to 0,6 mm (0.01-0.024")

Lever was moved to 67 mm from boss with fully engaged grip. (9 mm engagement in lever)
Setting 2 mm play at grip means normally for me that I should get a 2 mm loose wire before engagement. I suspect that Guzzi do not think that way.
Do any of you use a loose wire at gearbox lever?

I think that the intension is to have a tensed wire at gearbox lever. By setting 2 mm at handle grip you reduce the play at the lever from 1,2 mm to around 0.5 mm. As long as there is play it should work.
Do any of you think otherwise?
Measured distances changes a little when you rotate your enginge.
Probably due to axial play of crankshaft. Axial play of crankshaft should be 0,35 to 0,40 mm.
 
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Do any of you use a loose wire at gearbox lever?
Yes, just an ever so slight slack. I never measured it. If it is taught, you are loading the assembly.
 
Thanks for answering. I feel like you regarding the wire. Use a little slack. Since it´s winter I can not test the clutch on the road. I will try the funcion on the road. Smooth gear change and no dragging is what you need. Still intresting what Moto Guzzi means with 2 mm clearance. 2 mm clearance before engagement of clutch or clearance before tension in the wire.
 
I believe this is the problem I'm dealing with right now. Engine has 1024 miles and couldn't shift into neutral. Dealer originally told me that I had misadjusted the clutch cable. After informing him that I never touched it he called back a couple days later and said that a shim had broken in the shaft and the engine would have to be replaced. I would have felt better about his competence if he hadn't kept on calling it a "Motor Guzzi". I envision making the ride to Southern California for further services.

I am having difficulty at times finding neutral after coming to a stop at a stoplight. I find myself doing the toe-tap dance with my clutch foot trying to finesse the lever into neutral but it would just hop between first and second and I would just have to keep the clutch hand lever squeezed until the light turns green. Then there are other times when I am able to get into neutral with no issue. However, I am finding I have more issues finding neutral when stopped. I just dismissed it as part of the bike's character. Should I be concerned?
 
I am having difficulty at times finding neutral after coming to a stop at a stoplight.
If it's easier to shift/find neutral when the engine is first started, yes... Make sure the clutch lever & arm at the trans has some slack when the motor is hot, as the clutch seems to lose adjustment as the engine heats up.
 
If a dealership is near by, I understand they can do a test to see if there is any issues on your motor. If you were not having a problem finding neutral and now you are, I would consider a dealer visit. Get it fixed if there are any issues, motor on and continue making good videos...


I am having difficulty at times finding neutral after coming to a stop at a stoplight. I find myself doing the toe-tap dance with my clutch foot trying to finesse the lever into neutral but it would just hop between first and second and I would just have to keep the clutch hand lever squeezed until the light turns green. Then there are other times when I am able to get into neutral with no issue. However, I am finding I have more issues finding neutral when stopped. I just dismissed it as part of the bike's character. Should I be concerned?
 
Hi,

New to forum mostly to ask about this problem.

I bought a new '16 V7II a few months ago. Only a few miles on it because of an unusually harsh winter. Initially clutch was fine but then started to be difficult to find neutral - the clutch needed adjustment but I found that the adjustment at the clutch lever was already maxed out either from the factory or dealer prep (and not done very well either place because the lock nut on the adjuster hadn't even been snugged down). I checked the owners manual and shop manual and neither reference how to adjust the clutch at the gearbox end. Any ideas? I sent the dealer a message and they asked me to bring it in but they are a couple hundred miles away and it seems they would have been the ones to have maxed out the clutch lever adjustment unless that isn't something done at a pre delivery inspection.

Based on other comments you have made in this thread and comments from others, I suggest that your bike be taken back to the dealer to have your money refunded, or for them to correct the problem while providing a loaner bike for you to use while they mess about with it.

This kind of problem is unacceptable no matter if it came like that from the factory or neglected by the dealer.
 
My 2016 v7ii would stall when pulling in the clutch. I was told at the dealer it was caused by a thrust washer not being installed making the crank move. A new engine is on it's way. The bike has 4600 miles. ZGULWUB05GM200257
 
V7II Stone, VIN ZGULWUB04GM200024, so far, so good at 14,000 mi. I suppose my motor was assembled before the absent-minded guy was hired.
 
If a dealership is near by, I understand they can do a test to see if there is any issues on your motor. If you were not having a problem finding neutral and now you are, I would consider a dealer visit. Get it fixed if there are any issues, motor on and continue making good videos...
so is there a positive test? I am considering a fly and ride purchase that will run about 4000 miles and being stranded in Tim buck too is out of the question.
 
so is there a positive test?
No, but many here are asking... this only applies to the '16 V7 II. Both of mine (Stone 0100 & Racer 0028) are good. From those who have posted, we're looking at possibly ~100 bike run for North America (so far).
 
No, but many here are asking... this only applies to the '16 V7 II. Both of mine (Stone 0100 & Racer 0028) are good. From those who have posted, we're looking at possibly ~100 bike run for North America (so far).
I'm the guy that always gets the lemon. the deal on the 2016 6 speed is only a deal if you get a good one. I didn't mind having to replace the regulator on the 15 but an engine failure 1000 from a dealer would not be fun and you know the importer won't be of a lot of help.
 
My VIN is ZGULWUB16GM200177 and bike has just over 5000 miles with no apparent issues...Clutch seems ok and stable.
 
If a dealership is near by, I understand they can do a test to see if there is any issues on your motor. If you were not having a problem finding neutral and now you are, I would consider a dealer visit. Get it fixed if there are any issues, motor on and continue making good videos...
Thanks, Darmie. I may stop by and chit chat with the dealership here soon. I haven't posted a motovlog in a couple weeks. I will get one up here in the next couple days! Good seeing you here, too!
 
So an update on my bike. Over the three week mark of them identifying the problem and parts being on order. Went in today and had a discussion with the dealership. Explained to the them with Nevada statutes in hand that once they had possession of the bike for 30 days I have a number of options that will cost them a not insignificant amount of money. I also explained that I would be in a better mood if the service department had not at first accused me of "over-tightening the clutch cable" and bothered to call me with any kind of status updates during this whole ordeal. Apparently they are now motivated to call MG on Monday and get a firm date on when they can expect the new motor in so I know when I get my bike back. Also it seemed to them to be a good idea to give me a loaner bike after 22 days, and they also agreed that I probably should not have to pay for the 1K service on the new engine since I just paid for one. Hopefully I will get my beloved "Goose" back soon and the dealership understands that treating customers as partners instead of adversaries usually works better. Irregardless I'm not looking forward to getting my work done in Malibu :), canyons here I come.
 
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