• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

V7 loose fasteners

GTM®

Administrator
Staff member
GT di Razza Pura
Joined
Jul 1, 2009
Messages
15,055
Location
Malibu
I’m starting this thread to keep track of any fasteners or related that people are finding loose or missing, in hopes everyone can catch them in time.

On my pre-flight check today on the ‘17 V7 III Stone rental (~8k miles), I found the below rear subframe fastener not even finger tight. Worth checking.

E9CB9399 27E2 4E3A BBD1 6011FB2D5FFA
 
^^^^^^^

Ditto, i.e., none (yet) on my Stornello, and I check frequently in a aircraft-pilot-like walk-around with tools before every major ride.

OK. OK, I lied.

I have found one. Bolt holding rear fender to frame went AWOL.

But can't blame Luigi in Mandello and grappa ... well, at least not Luigi's ... as I had removed and reinstalled that when I mounted the rear rack. ;)

Put in replacement, used blue Locktite on it and other, and added "witness marks" with red nail polish (don't ask :*).

Thread is good reminder to check our mounts for missing items.

Bill
 
The dealer mechanic who set up my bike in pre-delivery did a decent job. Only thing I found that was loose was the OEM right mirror ... it just wasn't cinched down sufficiently. The other thing showed up a day later ... the left hand headlamp fixing bolt and its shaped spacer were missing entirely. Must have been loose and rattled off; the dealer replaced them for me. Since I've had the headlight off once or twice for various things, I've taken to using blue loctite when fitting them.

On doing several small detail tweaks, I've found a number of the 4mm clip-nuts were loose and or broken. They're particularly cheesy, cheap little buggers ... I bought a dozen higher quality ones as a "just in case" and have been replacing them one by one as I find them broken. They're used all over the place on the V7III Racer bodywork and such, so I'll always keep a few in stock, just in case.

On first service, the mechanic found that the front-most of the head-shield bolts on the right-hand exhaust pipe was missing; again he replaced it for me FOC.

By and large, the fit and detail finish of the bike has been excellent, and the delivery prep was pretty much done right and resolved anything that wasn't from the factory. There are always opportunities for small lapses ... I keep my eyes out for things that get loose and spot them with some thread lock if I find any.
 
Can't help with Mk II or III, but in the Mk I's there were two relatively common concerns:

* Exhaust Head Pipe nuts (at cylinder head exhaust ports)

* Fuel Tank Rubbermount (Puck) bolts.

I and a number of local V7 riding friends lost out or found the former loose.

I confess when I checked the latter on mine I think they were tight, but I Loctited then anyway to be sure. I think a few locals found at least one of them loose though.
 
It should be said that a good pre-delivery prep mechanic should check ALL accessible bolts and be sure they're tightened to spec, as well as a number of other things. New machines always require this, and dealers should care more about it rather than always handing pre-delivery prep to to last junior mechanic to be hired. It's a job that often requires the insight of the most experienced mechanic to do correctly and completely.

I believe in the case of my motorcycle, the guy who owns the dealership actually did the prep ... he's only been working on motorcycles for forty years ... which is why there are so few issues. And the other mechanic, the regular shop boss who did the first service, did a wonderful, careful, complete first service job, told me everything he found, and discussed with me several settings that are more a matter of feel and preference than specification.

What is more useful in this summing up of loose bolts is to uncover which bolts, on which years and models, persistently tend to need attention ... not whether they were attended to at the first service or out of the box. At least IMO, of course... :)
 
None found yet on V7 III Special...need a warm day to go over the bike though before spring riding really begins...
 
Can't help with Mk II or III, but in the Mk I's there were two relatively common concerns:

* Exhaust Head Pipe nuts (at cylinder head exhaust ports)

* Fuel Tank Rubbermount (Puck) bolts.

I and a number of local V7 riding friends lost out or found the former loose.

I confess when I checked the latter on mine I think they were tight, but I Loctited then anyway to be sure. I think a few locals found at least one of them loose though.

When I had the stock exhaust on I was riding on the highway at around 75mph and the nut actually popped right off and the exhaust was free from the head by about an inch. Had only 400 miles on it. As my first real size bike that was weird. haha. So confirming on that.

EDIT: Bike is a 2015 V7 Stone if we decided to do a running list of year / model and bolts to watch out for.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the reminder Todd. Can ya tell us the torque value for the subframe fastner on the V7 III????

Paul
 
On my 2017 V9 (4k miles), the shift linkage ball joint bolt worked it's way out of the shift lever without my noticing, and eventually snapped in half. The tech at Pro Italia said it was the second one they'd had come back with that issue.
 
On my 2017 V9 (4k miles), the shift linkage ball joint bolt worked it's way out of the shift lever without my noticing, and eventually snapped in half. The tech at Pro Italia said it was the second one they'd had come back with that issue.
did it have the drop of yellow paint that is supposed to mean it was torqued?
The 2015 and earlier need the header nuts checked every tank of gas for 2000 miles. the 2017 has been tightened a tiny - tiny bit on one side once in 3000 miles.
 
did it have the drop of yellow paint that is supposed to mean it was torqued?
The 2015 and earlier need the header nuts checked every tank of gas for 2000 miles. the 2017 has been tightened a tiny - tiny bit on one side once in 3000 miles.

It didn't. This was on the Guzzi-provided rear sets that were installed by the dealer prior to sale. I have the old style foot controls in a box, though, and they are indeed marked with the yellow paint.
 
Total agreement w/all above & a few personal observations.call it preflight or circle check(trucking terminology)getting familiar w/vehicle is a good thing.we've been spoiled by the reliability of newer products of every stripe,as a youngster 100mi. was a "road trip" now its a short ride to clear the cobwebs . I know of a delivery co. that is militant on this to the point of tracking how much time the driver spends @ each corner of the vehicle before leaving the yard ! Hint they have brown trucks. This is a non points question. Tires & lights are another often overlooked area,Also can help prevent meeting new people,"no sir I don't realize my x light was out".slightly off topic ,what would it cost Piaggo to install hazard lights? One button on turn signal sw. ?As a new driver my uncle put a few pebbles in the hubcap of my car & waited to see how long till I noticed ! Less then a mile on this occasion.
Wittnes marks are a good idea ,but on my 16V7ii non of them went across the head of the faster so you couldn't tell if it moved,dumb. I enjoy the look on the cashiers face when I purchase several colors of nail polish , I assure then its for the dog &they smile.That it ciao for now
 
Was there once a thread or post about the V7 differential / transmission / final drive having loose fasteners?

Something about the offending fasteners being only finger tight?

If so, which screws and to what torque?

I searched the forum but didn't find anything, which could mean there's nothing there or it could mean my search criteria didn't mesh.

Or was that notice regarding some other bike entirely?

Too many bikes. Not enough time to ride.

Thanks mucho.
 
Was there once a thread or post about the V7 differential / transmission / final drive having loose fasteners?
Something about the offending fasteners being only finger tight?
If so, which screws and to what torque?
I searched the forum but didn't find anything, which could mean there's nothing there or it could mean my search criteria didn't mesh.
Or was that notice regarding some other bike entirely?
Too many bikes. Not enough time to ride.
Thanks mucho.

FOUND IT ... the thread and post, that is ....

This thread - https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/th...harging-please-read.15720/page-15#post-127472

and this post, dated March 23, 2017, from Todd - My V7 II Stone rental has ~10k on it now. The rear drive now leaks, even after we tightened the barely finger-tight (from the factory) inner rear flange bolts. The PDI was not properly done on any of my '13-current V7's or V9.

So I guess my question has become, Are others finding this issue with loose fasteners in the final drive / rear drive / transmission ??

And what, exactly, is an "inner rear flange" and what does it look like? My Guzzi manual does not describe any such flange but it's not a very good manual (though much better than no manual.)

And what would be the proper torque values for these fasteners?

This website (no commercial aspect) -

thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_small_blocks_torque_specifications.html

- seems to suggest 29-30 ft/lbs for what is described as "crown wheel to hollow spindle" and 18 ft/lbs for the final drive cover but I would appreciate confirmation and further specificity.
 
Thanks for raising awareness on this, Todd. Safety First or Safety Fast as the old British Motor Co. slogan went.
 
my V7 racer exhaust studs seem to require a nip up every now and then, what should I do, remove and add a drop of locktite or maybe some small spring washers??
 
Back
Top