RentAGuzzi Motorcycle Rentals & Tours – Los Angeles CA

V7Classic Maintenance

Discussion in 'V7C-S' started by cvcaelen, Jan 20, 2011.

  1. cvcaelen

    cvcaelen Tuned and Synch'ed

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    22500Km and the little computer in the V7c told me it was time for a maintenance

    [​IMG]

    At first it was the dealer who did it,
    but now I figured it was time that I got my fingers dirty
    so, I bought me some stuff:

    engine-oil
    gearbox-oil
    brake-fluid
    oil-filter
    valve cover seals
    air filter
    brake pads front & rear

    [​IMG]

    some disclaimer could be in order:
    this is not intended to be a manual
    just a description of how I did my maintenance

    OK, let's get busy:

    Well, I had to clean the bike first
    As you'll know, it's my commuter-bike, so it gets dirty, a lot,...

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    and some time later: this is the bike I want to work on:

    [​IMG]

    Here's where the center stand comes in handy :)
    let's start by draining the engine-oil:
    two bolts (17mm & 19mm),but why couldn't Luigi use two of the same size?

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Then the oil-filter (loosen the 13mm bolt)

    Thanks to the Stucci-crossover I mounted some time ago
    draining the Gearbox-oil is easy now

    While the oils are dripping,
    I've got time to change the air-filter.
    First I've got to remove the fuel-tank by loosening the 10mm bolt

    [​IMG]

    Lifted tank a bit and put a bit of wood underneath so I coud reach the fuel-line connection

    [​IMG]

    remove fuel-line
    remove drain-hose
    disconnect contacts

    Well,
    it was supposed to be that way,
    but I couldn't disconnect the fuel-line
    no matter what I tried,
    nothing moved.
    It's supposed to be simple enough:
    push fuel-line forward,
    pull grey ring back
    remove fuel-line.
    I then called my dealer and he told me it was correct what I was trying to do,
    but he also warned me not to break the red connector: that would cost me 700 Euro's to replace
    (It comes as a set with the whole fuel-pump assembly)
    So I had to figure a way to remove the air-filter without removing the tank

    By that time it was noon
    and having a good dinner can help setting the mind straight

    After dinner I started filling the various oils back
    Engine-oil:
    first put the two bolts back
    then fill with 1780ml

    [​IMG]

    Gearbox-oil:
    put drain-plug back in
    put bike on side-stand, 'cause the level-plug has to act as fill-plug.
    fill with 1 liter of gearbox-oil

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    With that out of the way I could concentrate back on the fuel-line
    but after some trying and thinking about the 700 Euro's
    it was time for plan "B"
    I could remove the 4 screws from the air box lid
    It was a tight fit but I managed to wiggle the lid out of the way
    (now you see why I moved the two horns to the front of the bike right after I bought it?)

    Look What Luigi did:

    [​IMG]

    His filter wasn't placed right ):

    [​IMG]

    Old and new filter

    New filter in,
    but correct this time :)

    [​IMG]

    Wiggle some to get the air box back together again
    fuel tank back in place
    done!

    Now on to the brakes
    Front brake first
    A 7mm Allen-key removes the assembly

    [​IMG]

    pull out two pins
    remove old pads

    [​IMG]

    Two spacers must not be forgotten

    [​IMG]

    rear-brakes
    removed by removing two 13mm bolts
    and a stubborn pin holds the pads

    [​IMG]

    Old and new:

    [​IMG]

    While at it:
    draining the fluid
    front

    [​IMG]

    back:
    the reservoir is hidden behind a panel

    [​IMG]

    same technique as the front

    [​IMG]

    fresh fluid in the reservoir

    [​IMG]

    In the rear-system there was real brown brake-fluid,
    so it was realy needed

    Time to do the valves while the engine is cold!

    [​IMG]

    remove plastic shields Allen-key 4mm

    [​IMG]

    remove valve-cover (6 Allen 5mm)

    [​IMG]

    There's a hose attached
    but it's long enough to let it connected
    just put aside

    [​IMG]

    Spark-plugs out
    alternator-cover removed
    and with 24mm spanner I could turn the crank

    [​IMG]

    check clearances:
    0.15mm inlet
    0.20mm outlet
    they were still good at both sides
    didn't have to correct :)
    Putting things back, I put oil on the seals

    [​IMG]

    Done :)
    on to the 30000Km maintenance

    Materials I used

    [​IMG]

    It took me 5 hours to complete the job (And I really enjoyed it a lot getting my fingers dirty)
    And it costed me 150 Euro's

    Also changed the bevel-box oil
    but I didn't take pictures of that

    Christiaan
     
  2. icenian

    icenian Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Christiaan,

    This is excellent, and great photos too. Thanks for taking the time.

    BTW, where did you get the oil temperature gauge? And does it have a dipstick that measures the correct oil level (which would be a big advance on the original Guzzi item)?
     
  3. cvcaelen

    cvcaelen Tuned and Synch'ed

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    The oil temp gauge I've bought about 2 years ago on E-bay,
    but it isn't available any more :(
    it has the correct dipstick-length

    Christiaan
     
  4. icenian

    icenian Tuned and Synch'ed

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    ah, MG Cycle part number 70030RR66
    $86
     
  5. sign216

    sign216 GT Reference

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    Nice work.

    Re the air filter. What did the factory do wrong in the installation? It's hard to see from the photos.
     
  6. cvcaelen

    cvcaelen Tuned and Synch'ed

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    the filter wasn't placed correct in it's holder,
    unfiltered air could pass the filter :shock:
     
  7. Paxo

    Paxo Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    Very useful series of photos and so much clearer than the manual. Thanks for taking the trouble to do that. I know this has been asked before but I can't find it; how do you get the service light to go out? Cheers, Paxo
     
  8. cvcaelen

    cvcaelen Tuned and Synch'ed

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    with the ignition OFF;
    push left button (trip/odo) and keep pushed;
    switch ON ignition;
    wait 'till the dials do there dance and the lights go out again
    release button
    switch ignition back OFF

    next time you start the engine, the "maint"-thing will be gone :)

    Christiaan
     
  9. Paxo

    Paxo Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    Thanks Christiann, memory isn't what it used to be!

    Cheers, Paxo
     
  10. Moto Fugazzi

    Moto Fugazzi Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    I thought about removing my tank the other day to route some wiring, but I realized with it being 20f, the plastic disconnect might break pretty easily.
    I think I'm going to run an in-line fuel filter that will be easily accessible that I can use for my tank disconnect.
    Anyone know the i.d. of the fuel line?
     
  11. Penderic

    Penderic Tuned and Synch'ed

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    I don't think your filter was causing any real problems - the lighter coloured boarder area shows the air flow is going mostly in the middle area of the filter. If a side was unsealed, or even bouncing up and down (during a rough ride), I think there would be a big offset in the colour pattern.

    Only if you never changed the filter, would that worry me! Relax!

    (I'll check mine later this spring to see if how much wiggle the filter has in that (and other) misalignment. I'll report back if there is any gaps that could occur - best to know about the potential.)

    The person who put that filter in wrong should not work on your bike every again.... Yikes! Imagine the damage they could have done to your engine, brakes and safety!? I do my own maintenance because of that reason... I got almost killed by a botched recall!

    I've had my tank off to fix a corroded connector and that fuel line disconnect is....yes! so stupid! I kept at it for a long time and took a couple of time outs, until I did something right and it slid apart so easily and smoothly that I couldn’t believe I did it - stood there for minutes dumbfounded! Two very light pressures that have to be balanced and are yet totally COUNTER-INTUITIVE have to be mastered (or fumbled upon!). I hope my fingers remember.
     
  12. icenian

    icenian Tuned and Synch'ed

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  13. Holt

    Holt GT Reference GT Contributor

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    Actually, they are

    http://www.louis.de/_301ed3dccb55b9c5cd ... =0&typ_id=

    You'll need an M25 to M20 adapter though. Found at electrical wholesalers at a low cost.

    - and what's more, the cheaper is the most accurate, according to tests. I've got one, and it IS very accurate, measured at 20* and 100* C.
     
  14. icenian

    icenian Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Thanks. Louis list dozens of different types, for lots of models, but no small block Guzzis. Do you remember which model yours is designated for?

    There's also loads on ebay, but again none for small blocks...

    I assume these things won't work unless the dipstick is in the oil. I wonder of one that's too long can be cut? One of the web sites calls it a "sensor" but I suspect this may overstate the complexity of the item!
     
  15. Bieze

    Bieze Just got it firing!

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    Yes, you can... once and then throw it away!
    :cool:

    It 's probably a 'bi-metal' thermometer, so you have to order the correct lenght
    :D
     
  16. Holt

    Holt GT Reference GT Contributor

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    Yes, I do remember. Item # 10034310
    The one thats quoted for the big blocks. That's why you need the adapter.
    By simple Guzzilogic the big blocks, which contains double the oil volume compared to smallblocks, also have a smaller hole to pour it through. :mrgreen:
    The length will be right. Just add marks by filing; copy from the original dipstick.
     

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