• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Oil fiiler cap and fuel tank noise

L

Larry Vance

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Contributor
Joined
Jul 21, 2014
Messages
107
Location
Connecticut
I had a weird day today. 2013 V7 Special 3200 miles. Part 1 Went for a ride not long, no faster than 60mph. Oil filler cap came loose, shooting oil all over. I stopped tightened it and went back home. I checked the oil the night before and made sure the cap was tight, but it loosened anyway. Has anyone had this issue? I am thinking of using some loctite on it but hesitate because the cap knob is plastic not metal. Does anyone know of a better replacement. Part 2. When I get home and am cleaning the bike I hear a noise from the gas tank that sounds like the fuel pump being energized as if I turned the key on. The key was out when this happened and the sound repeated every 4 to 5 minutes. It seems to have stopped after the bike sat for an hour or so. Any ideas?? Thanks
 
Congratulations. You have 2 common items. The oil filler coming loose has been mentioned several times on this forum and if you do a search fixes will be there. No Loctite! The noise you hear is the fuel tank vent valve. Not sure on the V7 but on the 1400 the easiest cure is to remove it. Either that or tolerate the noise. It hurts nothing. It is the hot engine expanding the air and fuel in the tank and the valve releases some when it reaches a certain pressure. Mine is gone.
 
Yea, on the 750 engine the dipstick often auto-rotates out. It's common. I drilled my cap for a D-ring and wire it shut. Another fellow drilled the case and uses a peg. Some tighten the cap with a wrench.
 
Done the oily boot drill myself. I'm amazed that MG hasn't addressed this. I use a pair of channel locks and just give a little "snug-up" maybe a 1/4 turn and I've never had it happen again.
 
I've always done mine up by hand and never had an issue. Now that I've written that, Murphy will wreak a heavy vengeance on me by having my oil dipstick come undone every ride from now on.
 
Be careful with those channel locks I've already cracked a chunk off the dip stick cap. I had it come loose going home from the dealership. I learn early on first day. Other thing that happens is that green rubber seal falls out, one of these days that sucker is going to fall into the sump.
 
Here some pictures of answers. I use the top "wire method." Another fellow uses the pin below.


dipstick2.jpg
Tom+Farley%27s+mod2.jpg
 
Thanks all. I will be using the channel lock solution. Spoke to a dealer which had the same suggestion.
 
Trouble is, if I wired it, I would be less likely to regularly check the oil level.
Need a secure locking but QR method - maybe the R pin?
AndyB
 
Andy, It's not wired with the stiff safety wire. I used some copper wire that I twist on and off. The twisted ends are concealed in the photo. Ends up being simpler than the channel wrench solution.
 
Just a few thoughts.
On a Jabiru engine I run in a microlight the plastic dip stick surround (very similar to the MG one) expands more than the alloy it is in so that it is impossible to remove when the engine is hot. We always check the oil cold and just do it up snug - and it never shifts.
On the V7 we are told by MG to check the oil when hot. Which means that we replace the dipstick into a hot engine. So the dipstick may become loose when the engine cools down....and then undoes when ridden.

It would be much better to check the engine oil level when cold. Then the dip stick is refitted into a cold engine and should lock itself as the engine heats up.

Checking then engine oil level cold may mean recalibrating the dipstick.....

AndyB
 
Full by the MG method is 3/4 full on my bike, cold, on centre stand - may be different on other bikes - so I will check it cold in future and hope the oil drain cap tightens up as the engine warms due to the different expasion rates of alloy and plastic
AndyB
 
I found that after hand tightening the dipstick if I snug it up a bit more with pliers it stays in place.
 
There's a handy little tool that is being offered on another site. I believe Todd frowns on links so just google "fin design dipstick tool". A number of other V7 owners have ordered and I will be too. I'll be happy to put my channel locks away.
 
tonUPRacer said:
There's a handy little tool that is being offered on another site. I believe Todd frowns on links so just google "fin design dipstick tool". A number of other V7 owners have ordered and I will be too. I'll be happy to put my channel locks away.
Click to expand...
Thanks for info. I will definitely get one.
 
If you know your engine has the proper amount of oil (right after a change) note the level on your dipstick when checking cold. No big deal.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top