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What fuel to use in a 2013 V7

GuzziMoto said:
I ...use premium fuel in all my bikes. I am also am tired of hearing the bit about premium fuel burning slower.

A good source of "octane" info - beyond "what everyone knows" - is to be found here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating

21st century Guzzi engines combine use of fuel injection, knock sensors, and an Engine Control Unit to suppress (usually eliminate) detonation (knocking).

All carburetted engines remain at risk. For them especially make sure to use the lowest grade of clean, uncontaminated, pure. non-ethanol fuel that runs in your engine without detonation.

'Geezer
 
M0T0Geezer said:
21st century Guzzi engines combine use of fuel injection, knock sensors, and an Engine Control Unit to suppress (usually eliminate) detonation (knocking).

Though I agree that can be true about modern automotive engines, and perhaps many of the more sophisticated motorcycle and perhaps marine (outboard/inboard) type engines, I wouldn't be so quick to make that claim about Guzzis.

All three Guzzis I've owned (00 Jackal, 06 Breva 1100, 13 V7) have not used any knock sensor, or AFAIK Ion sensing logic through the ignition system. As a matter of fact my B11 pinged so badly (even on premium) that Todd eventually had to solve it with a Guzzitech reflash.

FWIW from the 1TB V7 repair manual - FI components:

key:
1. Control unit position
2. Ignition switch
3. Battery
4. Fuel pump
5. Coils
6. Instrument panel
7. Air temperature sensor
8. Throttle valve position sensor
9. Injectors
10.Crankshaft position sensor
11.Engine temperature sensor
12.Lambda probe
13.Side stand


ECU Pinout

PIN:
1. Throttle position sensor supply - Power output
2. Lambda probe signal (ground) - Analogue
input
3. Rpm indicator control - Frequency output
4. Cylinder head temperature sensor signal -
Analogue input
5. -
6. Right injector control - Power output
7. Engine revolution sensor - Frequency input
8. Lambda probe signal (positive) - Analogue
input
9. Diagnosis line (K) - Communication line
10.Diagnosis line (L) - Communication line
11.Throttle position signal - Analogue input
12.Engine revolution sensor - Frequency input
13.Right injector control - Power output
14.Right coil control - Power output
15.Injection telltale light control - Digital output
16.Fall sensor signal - Digital input
17.Control unit supply - Power input
18.Intake air temperature sensor signal - Analogue
input
19.Injection relay control - Digital output
20.Left coil control - Power output
21.-
22.Sensors supply (ground) - Power output
23.Control unit supply (ground) - Power input
24.Control unit supply (ground) - Power input
25.-
26.Control unit supply (+15) - Power input


All that said, Premium is not always called for, and when it is not, then it is generally a waste of money that not only does not give better performance, but actually can increase emissions.

Damn, I had a great link to an in-depth Canadian TV news report with side-by-side dyno and sniffer testing of various cars on premium and regular supporting that conclusion, but the link seems to be gone from the http://www.cbc.ca website. :(
 
I run Premium in everything I know expect my diesel Land Rover's.

my wifes C300 sport says min 91

my 400hp Vr6 turbo Passat... I can feel the difference especially in hot weather...timing gets retarded power goes way down. ive only run a few of gallons of 91 through it out of desperation cause I was nowhere near a station that had 94, which I run religiously in that car.

A few years ago I built a homebrew junkyard turbo set-up on my 82 mk1 VW Jetta. using early 80's mechanical fuel injection. power went from the stock 90hp to 190hp. with no ignition retarding at all I learned quite a bit about how engines react to low octane fuels. the heat in the combustion chamber would be higher with lower octane, I removed spark plugs frequently as i tried different ones til find ones that could cope. I played with boost levels, ignition timing and different octane fuels. once I had the car set-up this was the difference. 91 oct I could not run more then 5psi or else pre detonation would occur, 94 oct I could run 11psi safely. Then difference at the drag strip between the 2 fuels 91 oct yielded 15.1@91 mph. 94 oct yielded 14.5@96 mph. 94 was saving the plugs as well.

Ive always run 91 in the Guzzi. I wont run anything less since there isn't any knock sensor, and also its aircooled...I want to keep combustion temps as cool as possible...

Matt
 
sign216 said:
I say use the lowest octane you can, without getting knocking.

I run super premium, which in my part of the country (northeast USA) is 93 octane. I've got aftermarket pistons and cylinders, and have problems with pinging under hard acceleration.


Do you have a build thread on your engine/bike? sounds interesting.

Matt
 
Instg8r said:
sign216 said:
I say use the lowest octane you can, without getting knocking.

I run super premium, which in my part of the country (northeast USA) is 93 octane. I've got aftermarket pistons and cylinders, and have problems with pinging under hard acceleration.


Do you have a build thread on your engine/bike? sounds interesting.

Matt

Matt,

No detailed thread, but I've talked about it a little. I used a "Nevada" big bore kit from R.A.M. of Italy bought through Agostini as a non-catalog item. R.A.M. was difficult to deal with, but Agostini was great. These Nevada kits were more available years ago, and finding one became a holy grail for me.

Kit came with replacement cylinders, pistons, rings, wrist pin, and gaskets. No instructions. Pushes the engine to approx. 820cc. Quality was very good overall, but one or two small things came up.

Afterwards, the issue is that the enlarged engine demands more fuel. Easy enough to jet a carb, but a bigger problem on a fuel injected bike. I ended up getting an aftermarket ECU by MyECU of Australia, that allows you to adjust everything. I've got the engine close to what I like, and hope to dyno it this summer.

Joe
 
When it's properly hot my 2013 V7 Special can pink below 3K rpm on standard fuel (which I think is 95 octane in the UK) but is much improved on 98 octane super. Still pinks a bit if you lug it though.
The other benefit of super is that it generally has less or no ethanol in it but does usually have additional cleaning additives. Which is a benefit to someone like me who lays his bike up for three months over winter.
 
Just to add a data point or two: I've used US 89 octane with 10% EtOH max in my '13 V7 Stone for nearly 12,000 miles without any problems, no additives, no preservatives, and sitting unused in a 32 deg F garage from mid-December through March each year here in the frozen wilds of New England. No fouling, no surging, no missing, no problem starting up after hibernation. Also, no knocking. However, I've tried 87 octane twice, and both times there was considerable knocking, but only when lugging, like when I've forgotten to shift down to 1st before starting off at a traffic light. Never happens with 89 octane (never knocks, that is; I still occasionally forget to downshift).
 
Wow ! Well now I'm not sure what to think.!! I was going to post the question whether or not to run a higher octane fuel in my '13 V7R. I usually fill up here in Vegas at Chevron stations with their premium 91 octane. I haven't suffered any problems at all either through the winter ( cold.!? - hah ! ) months or the hot summers of 110 degree's. However , a newly aquainted Kiwi friend who has a '73 V7 Sport as advised me to try the 100 octane that's available at some of the local Rebel stations here in town.
SOoo..was going to but now I'm not so sure..what do you guys suggest..give it a go or stick to the 91 octane.??
Answers appreciated.!!
 
The best rule of thumb is to use the lowest octane fuel you can without ping or knock.
The small block motor is not a high compression motor and stock does not really have a thirst for high octane fuel. But if you want to try it, go ahead. But if you have no problems running 91 (and I doubt you do as others with that bike use lower octane fuel with no issues) you are just throwing money away.
 
I'm using jet fuel cut with wd-40 and some diesel. Love the blue flame out the pipes at night.
My top end is something close to 150 mph in the 1/4 mile.
 
Own some property, 5 acres in Huntsville just down the road from the police department on sale for 10,000 cash. I'm selling it cheap only because we all need a good deal now and then. Pass the goodwill on type thing. I'm a guzzilianair and don't need much with my life style being simple and all.
 
I try to stick with non-ethanol fuel, usually 91. If that's not available I go with 89. I've had engine knock on 87 octane so I avoid that.
 
Per the manual, use 85 (RON) or 95 (MON), depending on what your country uses. In the US, we use (RON+MON)/2, which means 90 octane. All I can find around here is 89 or 93, so I just use 89. 91 might be better, but I doubt 93 is as good as either.
 
Thanks for the feedback. Here in Oz ethanol is not an issue. There are still plenty of options other than petrol/ethanol mixes. I will probably alternate between 98 and 95 octane and end up with a unique blend of around 96.5 octane since I tend to top up the tank every 200km or so! Peculiar I know but somehow I notice I am given to the odd aberration like that. I do the same with my Enfield but with it I alternate between 91 and 95.
I live in a town with a population of around 50,000 and have not seen any other Moto Guzzi's or Enfields inhabiting these parts. It's good to know what others are doing fuel wise so thanks again for the feedback.

Das
I am just an hour Nth of you, and I own an Enfield Classic 500 and a Guzzi.........Small world my friend

Cheers
Brooksie
 
When I pump premium into the tank, I wonder if the person in front of me pumped the cheapest grade possible, how much of that gas is left in a long hose? It would be nice to pull in behind someone you know was pumping premium (better let your buddy go first)
 
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