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V7 Charging issues / Dead battery -- PLEASE READ

HOLD THE PRESSES! the 2015 and 16 have 7 wires. the white plug has 3 big yellow ones not 2. About 12 gauge. the black has 2 red with white stripe and 2 solid green. my guess 14 gauge.
other things I have seen compared to a 2013 are different rear shock mfg. with totally different springs and one adjusting color. air filter is under the seat with I think 4 screws to hold on cover similar to a Stelvio. at least it shows the MFG is making some changes for the better.
 
Wiring is extremely easy. There are two connectors, one is a 3-pin, other 2-pin

The 2-pin connector is the Battery positive & ground
The 3-pin connector goes to your stator (yellow wires)

Note: my 2013 has a 2-phase stator, hence has 2 yellow wires. Most bikes (suspect the newer V7s) have the usual 3-phase stator. If you have a 2-phase unit, connect the 2 yellow wires to any of the 3 pins. If you have 3-yellow wires stock, you have a 3-phase unit and will connect each yellow wire to each pin on the regulator (order doesn't matter).

CARR5925 FH012AA FH020AA Yamaha spanningsregelaar
 
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Wiring is extremely easy. There are two connectors, one is a 3-pin, other 2-pin

The 2-pin connector is the Battery positive & ground
The 3-pin connector goes to your stator (yellow wires)

Note: my 2013 has a 2-phase stator, hence has 2 yellow wires. Most bikes (suspect the newer V7s) has the usual 3-phase stator. If you have a 2-phase unit, connect the 2 yellow wires in any of the 3 pins. If you have 3-yellow wires stock, you have a 3-phase unit and will connect each yellow wire to each pin on the regulator (order doesn't matter).


Thanks. I have a 13' V7 as well so should be as easy as you say.
 
did mine today. first I used the adapter plate from roadster cycle but then the VR fouled the engine guard bar so I just elongated the stock VR mounting holes; now everything clears. the plate will work fine if you don't have "crash bars"
the wiring is very basic and simple. just some soldering and crimping; not very technical.
the worst part is getting the tank off and fishing the old connectors out; its fiddly work
the mosfet unit is longer than the stock unit and the wires are a very tight fit around the front engine cover
I have a steady 14.2 volts now instead of 15.5
 
OK, sounds like you have it all figured out for everyone. So I'll bow out of this project now. Far too many irons in the fire.
 
My English is not enough to understand all the techinacl terms so i have to ask directly. Is this overcharging issue occurs on the 2. generation of V7. I recently bought a brand new 2015 model yerar V7Racer II and wonder taht i have to check the power charging values ?
 
Is this overcharging issue occurs on the 2. generation of V7. I recently bought a brand new 2015 model yerar V7Racer II and wonder taht i have to check the power charging values ?
Although the V7 II's arriving here seem to be OK, I would, per the post below...

I sent a pic of mine (2015) at 17.79 at 3000 today. he said the 2015 and 16 are the same part #. is going to check one on the floor and if ok strip it off and over night it to me.
 
OK, sounds like you have it all figured out for everyone. So I'll bow out of this project now. Far too many irons in the fire.

We have it figured out? News to me. I just thought I saw a lot of confused people with different possible solutions.

I for one wouldn't mind a single vetted source.

Mosfet? SHINDENGEN FH020AA? V7II OEM?

Do we really have a "recommended" solution?
 
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Sort of like final approach on instruments and the radio frequency is blocked by some hard rock FM station.

About as clear as mud.

I'm trying to figure out what to do with the extra wire.
 
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Same opinion here. I'm not familiar with this stuff and was hoping for Todd's plug n play system. If not I guess I'd buy the cut n crimp yourself one but I would have someone help put the wires together just so I new for sure they were done to high standards. Either way I would be most comfortable ordering from Todd so I know for sure it is the right stuff.
 
We have it figured out? News to me. I just thought I saw a lot of confused people with different possible solutions.

I for one wouldn't mind a single vetted source.

Mossfet? SHINDENGEN FH020AA? V7II OEM?

Do we really have a "recommended" solution?

Recommendation is the Shindengen FH020AA VR, which is a MOSFET unit. It's also OEM on a lot of bikes.

Post #136 has the wiring
Post #133 has one source for ordering (many others out there).

No extra wires. Just crimp and go.
 
I'm just going to the old tried and true zanier diode and rectifier method. Or just mount the freakin battery out into the airstream.
 
We have it figured out? News to me. I just thought I saw a lot of confused people with different possible solutions.
Per drlago and 99sh posts, seems an easy solution is already out there.
 
I think Todd just bowed out because it seems people want to remedy the situation as soon as possible and folks are just looking to buy it asap since Todd couldn't source the oem harness and said himself that he wasn't 100% sure about which way to offer and then offered to have folks ship their harness out, which turned off some, so folks just flipped their shit and left Todd in a billow of smoke and dust and ordered elsewhere, so Todd said fuck ya'll, I'm out.

As stated above, the Shindengen FH020AA is apparently the most recommended unit and probably the one Todd was going to offer. There are places to buy online already that have kits that are straightforward. Per the ebay link of post 133. I am going to order mine from roadstercycle, the same kit seen in the ebay link. Crimp and solder and fabricate a mounting plate and you're done. Luckily I have a drill press and all that at my work garages, so makes it easier.
 
Per drlago and 99sh posts, seems an easy solution is already out there.

I guess it wasn't clear THAT was the preferred solution.

I've got no problem crimping or soldering, then again I would prefer buying a vetted, fair priced part or especially a plug and play kit(meaning doesn't have to be ebay cheap) from a trusted supplier (i.e. Guzzitech).

I'm in no rush. Hell I haven't even tested mine yet lol. Maybe tomorrow...tomorrow is looking good.
 
Todd, if you offer this kit with a nice mounting plate and hardware, and at the right price, then I'll snap one up from you first, sure. Screen Shot 2016 02 29 at 13617 PM
 
Todd, if you offer this kit with a nice mounting plate and hardware, and at the right price, then I'll snap one up from you first, sure.
If people would rather make their own bracket and wire it up themselves, I'd say buy from one of the online vendors.
 
the worst part is getting the tank off and fishing the old connectors out; its fiddly work

Can you not leave it connected and put the new terminals on right where you cut it off at the old VR? More cumbersome but could be done and save the trouble of removing the tank, etc.
 
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