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V7 Charging issues / Dead battery -- PLEASE READ

Bottom line, I don't think 15.1-15.5 is going to harm anything on the bike EXCEPT the battery whose life it will most certainly reduce. But why live with that risk if you don't have to?
It will harm the cam sensor, and in the end the ECU, outside of the battery. Hence the first post of the thread.

Up to each owner to choose. Your bike and money. Pay a little now, or a lot later.
 
It will harm the cam sensor, and in the end the ECU, outside of the battery. Hence the first post of the thread.

Up to each owner to choose. Your bike and money. Pay a little now, or a lot later.

No Todd. I don't see evidence of that in your posts.

Correct me if I'm wrong on the facts but the only thing I see you've said is that you have one or more cases where the RR was severely malfunctioning spiking voltages to 16-17V at speed and THOSE BIKES suffered damage to the CAM sensor and ECU. I don't see where you've claimed finding one testing at 15.1 or less where the damage has occurred.


Per my post a few times above, many of those including the several I've repaired because of "running issues" idled at 15.5v, and went up into the high 16~17's at 3k RPM. All those I've had here required battery replacement earlier then expected, and most all also required replacement of the cam sensor to throttle correctly (all showed a cam sensor & ECU error with diagnostics). The last one I had that was "addressed" by a local dealer ended up having to replace the battery, voltage regulator, cam sensor (twice) and the ECU/TB for it to run correctly.

In contrast it seems clear now from the number if bikes testing in the low 15V range without damaged ECUs/CAM sensors, plus the OEM specs, plus the OEM replacement RR from EuroElectrics which is noted to be set to 15.1 V that for whatever reason MG decided to run this charging system at about 15 volts.

Hell I provided a link to the Yuasa website that clearly stated that for AGM batteries the charging system should be regulated to 14.0-14.8 volts. While that 14.8 is 0.2-0.3 less than what MG seems to have spec'd it's still 0.4 more than what you seem to think is the threshold.

Now I agree with your conclusion that 14.something is probably a good idea on the long run (at least for the life of the battery).

But I've seen no evidence that if running at OEM specs anything else will necessarily fail.

If I'm missing something please set me straight.
 
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I'm my opinion why are people second guessing what Todd is recommending to do. With all that he has put into helping all of us with our bikes. With his products and knowledge he probably takes it as a slap in the face when people question him on anything. GUZZI should get in contact with someone like Todd that has a passion for these bikes and knows how they should be operating. There's a lot of other simpler stuff then this that we have to fix on our bikes thar guzzi has messed up and looks the other way. Thanks Todd for helping us with everything you do. I'll be testing mine this week and will not think twice about replacing the part if it tests high.
 
I'm my opinion why are people second guessing what Todd is recommending to do.

<snip>

With his products and knowledge he probably takes it as a slap in the face when people question him on anything

<snip>

I'll be testing mine this week and will not think twice about replacing the part if it tests high.

Maybe because when examining multiple other sources it doesn't appear to be a black and white issue.

As a long time happy customer of Todd who appreciates his passion supported business I'd hope he wouldn't take the quest for knowledge as a slap in the face anymore than I'd expect him (or anyone here) to be perfect and have all the answers.

So the question is, when you test this week (at idle and 3-5k rpm) what will you consider high:

> 14.4 (Todd & some older battery source info)
> 14.8 (Yuasa AGM info 2014)
> 15.0 (MG Stone/Special/Racer service manual)
> 15.1 (OEM replacement RR setting as per Euromotoelectrics)

Currently I'm leaning towards Yuasa's info for my own target, but I suspect other than shortened battery life there's no reason not to believe MG or perhaps even the RR manufacturer.
 
My question is has anyone had the ecu or cam sensor or both got damaged by this issue? Because i think people are happy that they change the battery every 3 or 4 years...for some its just a normal routine. I would really like to hear from these people, just for knowledge. I read with great interest todd's posts and i trust everything he says, so i m still changing my vr.
 
Starter and crank position sensor went out on my bike last year and now the VR is charging high.

My bike is still in the shop waiting for the new VR, been almost 3 weeks.
 
Starter and crank position sensor went out on my bike last year and now the VR is charging high.

My bike is still in the shop waiting for the new VR, been almost 3 weeks.

I don't recall you ever telling us what voltage your VR was putting out, did you test it yourself and/or did the shop tell you?
 
Tested it myself. At idle it was like 15.8 and close 16. 6 or so something at 3,000 rpm's. Reason I tested, because I blew out a taillight bulb and headlight bulb at the same time. I've never had that happen before and after having lost the starter and the CPS, I knew something was going on with the electrical system that was not adding up. Bike runs great otherwise.

The shop verified my results.

That being said they acted like they didn't know if this was normal or not, then they called me the next day and decided to replace the VR.

Don't know for sure if the CPS and starter going out related to this or not but It looks suspicious.

My concern would be the entire wire harness and all electrical on the bike. With the warranty ending in June I probably need some documentation to cover this bike long term electrical systems.

This bike is very close to becoming a Lemon Law candidate. The shop manager himself asked me if I plan on using the lemon law. He said if I wanted to go that route they would offer me another bike, since this back and forth with the shop is getting ridiculous.

The shop is more at the end of the rope with this bike then me.
 
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An adapter plate is not needed to mount the Mosfet VR.
The stock mounting holes can be easily elongated with a file or rotary cutter, 1/4".
Small spacers should be used on the mounting bolts to keep the Mosfet VR wires away from the front engine cover
 
the tank simply has to be pulled back to access the harness plugs. No need to fully remove the tank, simply slide it back enough to gain access access to the plugs. That's how mine was...assuming everyone's will be in a similar spot.
 
Shop called me today and they have found wire harness damage on my bike. They called the factory and they (factory) want pictures and documentation along with all the maintenance records from that shop on my bike, anything that was electrical related on warranty.

As stated before I had the starter and CPS go out last year along with bulbs blowing out.

They called me and told me they can't release the bike to me for safety reasons. So everything is in some type of limbo. I'm without a bike that's caught up In some type of maintenance hold until the factory figure out what to do about this bike. I guess the concern is the brake light burning out and I get hit from behind or something. So the factory is somehow paranoid about my bike for some reason.
 
I don't know, just talk to them over the phone. They need to get this thing figured out because the riding season is getting close and I'm missing the hell out of that bike. I don't want another bike, I want them to fix this bike and make it right. Not only that the hassle with all of the extra stuff I put on that bike that would need to come off and transferred to another bike. I just put a new tire on the back for crying out loud.

Not only that the Lemon Law have some type of mileage deduction, over 16,000 miles on this bike. Then I don't know what happens with taxes, DMV, set up, freight and all that BS along with whatever other California fees apply. Some type of disposal fee on the other bike or something crazy like that. who knows. The bleeding never ends in this state.
 
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Got the bike out of the shop late today.

They installed the new VR and had to splice some new wires into the harness that showed signs of heat damage.

Apparently some bad VR's got out of the factory at some time.

So heads up...... check out your voltage regulators.

The high voltage will play havoc with the entire electrical systems.
 
Just installed new fh020aa unit. Went to turn bike on. Nothing. Completely dead. No lights, nothing.

I'm lost...?

I have an antigravity battery. Was running fine before new VR was put in. The old one was taken off about a week off and left off until just now when I plugged it in.

Is it possible I mixed up the positive and negative wires? I should've looked at the wiring diagram better but I have two yellow wires, two red/white and two green. The yellow were for the stator pin and I thought the red/white wires goes into the positive and the green wires into the negative.
 
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Just installed new fh020aa unit. Went to turn bike on. Nothing. Completely dead. No lights, nothing.

I'm lost...?

I have an antigravity battery. Was running fine before new VR was put in. The old one was taken off about a week off and left off until just now when I plugged it in.

Is it possible I mixed up the positive and negative wires? I should've looked at the wiring diagram better but I have two yellow wires, two red/white and two green. The yellow were for the stator pin and I thought the red/white wires goes into the positive and the green wires into the negative.

Sounds like you got the pos/neg correct.

Check your main fuse. IIRC, one of the red/white wires is hot even with key off. If any snipping was done with the battery connected, the fuse may have done its duty.

(That's assuming you used the stock wiring, which is what I did. If you went directly to battery, I can't help.)
 
Sounds like you got the pos/neg correct.

Check your main fuse. IIRC, one of the red/white wires is hot even with key off. If any snipping was done with the battery connected, the fuse may have done its duty.

(That's assuming you used the stock wiring, which is what I did. If you went directly to battery, I can't help.)


I did snip the old VR off with the battery connected.

So where and what should I be looking for in the fuse department, and would it be a simple replacement of pulling a bad fuse and replacing? Thanks.
 
^ Never snip wires and work with an active circuit. Should've disconnected battery or the VR harness first.

Just pull your seat and check the fuses. Remove & replace the popped ones.

compare-fuses.jpg
 
^ Never snip wires and work with an active circuit. Should've disconnected battery or the VR harness first.


The little things that you bypass when you're still inexperienced with all of the DIY stuff! Thanks. These can be purchased at any auto parts store I'm assuming?

Assuming it is just a fuse, any chance it did harm to anything else by snipping live wires? Thanks.
 
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