• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

A new Experiment - cleaning the Injectors.

not-fishing

not-fishing

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Famiglia
Joined
Oct 23, 2012
Messages
173
Location
Folsom, CA
Last month my G11 was down due to an open short. Yes, I had to get a pickup ride back home from Auburn where the G11 just quit to home.

So while searching for the elusive short I decided to pull the injectors and send them off to AF1 for cleaning.

After possibly fixing the short (only time will tell) I installed my cleaned and tested injectors.

My G11 now runs outsanding! She's very smooth even at idle. She used to miss a beat before but now she's great.

So I figured I need to do another test for verification. My 03 Lemans has only 32,000 miles but it's older than the 48,000 mi Griso. In the next couple of days I'm going to pull the fairing, pull the tank and send the injectors off to AF1. It takes a couple of weeks for the turn around.

If clean injectors fix the Lemans occasional "cough" then this might be an unlisted necessary maintenance item every 8-10 years if you want your bike to run well.

Mark
 
Actually I had the local Dr. Injector clean my daughter's MR2 injectors. Took about the same time. The 97 Ford F150 or my son's I got them on ebay.

When it comes to Guzzi Injectors, I'm going to be extra careful.
 
Short, it would pop 20a fuses in a heartbeat as soon as I turned on the ignition. From a past experience with the same short I learned to carry extra fuses (5). The Griso would behave the same each time. The G11 would die (the short is on the fuel injection circuit) but the gauges would stay on. I'd coast to the side of the road, pull the seat, change the blown fuse and ride off. This last time it quit it didn't matter how many fuses I had. Once I got the Griso home I traced it to the fuel tank connection. (fuel tank disconnect - fuse didn't blow when bike turned on. Fuel tank connected you'd hear a "snap" the second the bike was turned on).

I'm a simple old guy who has to keep simple because I'm easily confused when it comes to electrical work.

Mark
 
Additional results on the Griso 1100 injector cleaning: Even though the ECU is reflashed by Guzzitech I used to get pinging at low revs, high load with an aggressive throttle roll on --think passing while staying in the same gear starting @ 4000+.

Now there's no pinging -- maybe we just need to clean the intake & injectors every so often?

Continuing my Experiment:

I've pulled one injector on the Lemans -why did they locktite the screws? - but the 2nd injector has given me fits. The correct and fitted allen rounded out the final flat head screw holding on the injector (at least the screw turned one revolution). The easy out snapped off so I've resorted to dremel and drill. So far a couple of careful hours has been expended.

My goal is to drill out the screw head, pull out the injector and then penetrant, vise grip, rotate the screw out of the throttle body.

AF1 Racing wants $700 for a new injector without the throttle body. Why did they have to use locktite?

Also I pulled the airbox because it had about 1/2 a cup of oil in it. It appears the K & N air filter was never cleaned as well.

The interesting thing is this Rosso Corsa has a Guzzitech sticker on the ECU as well as a Power Commander III. Maybe when I get done the the intake rehab I'll just take of the Power Commander and see how she runs.
 
Thanks Scott,

Last night after a little searching I found an IW-031 injector for $45 but my real worry is getting the screw shaft out of the throttle body. I've ordered a drill bit extension so that I can drill the screw head out from the other side of the Lemans. Once I pull the 2nd injector it's off ot AF1 for cleaning. I figure on replacing the flat head injector screws with normal allens like you show. It's not like anyone can see them.
 
I don't have experience with AF1 on fuel injector servicing and although I do business with AF1 and like them, for fuel injection service - what you really need to do is send them to Russ Collins.

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND RC Fuel Injection. Russ Collins is a living legend, a recognized authority on high-performance motorcycle engines, a Motorcycle Hall of Fame inductee, and a Fuel Injection GOD. He's forgotten more than most know and his equipment in his shop is unmatched anywhere I've ever seen. His work is the best there is available and his prices are very fair - $24 - $28.50 per injector depending upon configuration and include pre-inspection and testing, cleaning service, re-inspection and testing and detailed report.

You will be very happy with his services. His reputation is impeccable and he is the very best in the world at what he does.

http://www.rceng.com/index.aspx

Screen Shot 2017 05 16 at 110519 PM
 
Last edited:
It took be a couple of hours of: drill with extension - didn't work because of the "walking" bit; switched back to dremel and grinder stones. grind some, rest, re-orientate, reset light, grind some, switch stones, charge grinder - I have both but needed cordless due to limited angle of attack.

Thursday I got off the injectors and they went in the Post to Russ. Lots of careful Dremel work , maybe I should have been a Dentist.

Cleaned out the carboned oil in the throttle body throats. I used my usual bamboo chopstick - cloth wrapped - carb cleaner soaked scrubbing tool. It seems a fair amount the breather oil was making it all the way from the crankcase, good quantity in air box to the throttle bodies.

I took a good portion of Friday night to tilt bike to right side, soak the offending screw with ATF-Acetone release, wait a couple of hours, give it another soaking, wait more, vise grip tighten about as much as I could close the handle and turn 1/4 revolution careful not to snap screw. More home brew penetrant, more wait, more careful vice grip work. I did get the screw shaft out whole - with not much of a head left.

This weekend it will be chase the threads in the throttle body, new metric allens from Ace hardware and wait for the injectors to return.

The Lemans has a "guzzitech" stickered ECU with a Power Commander III. My next experiment will be to run her without the Power Commander. I wonder what the re-flash was.....
 
not-fishing said:
The Lemans has a "guzzitech" stickered ECU with a Power Commander III. My next experiment will be to run her without the Power Commander. I wonder what the re-flash was.....
Click to expand...
Always best to write me with a question like this. When a bike has both, I typically address timing and compensation tables on the ECU, and let the PC handle all of the fueling. If it runs well with both, I highly do not recommend removing the PC.
 
Thanks for the recommendation, I'll leave the PC on.

Since the Rosso Corsa is a multiple owner used machine I wasn't sure about the fueling maps correctness. The Lemans had a habit of "coughing" between 2500-3500 at constant 1/4 throttle settings. It had a recent extensive shop tune-up by the previous owner which he said vastly improved a hesitation but didn't eliminate the "coughing" (my term).

My theory is once the injectors have been cleaned along with the cup of blowby oil in the air box the Lemans will improve dramatically and the Power Commander may not be needed.
 
Well the injectors went off to Russ Collins and came back with the report

Before Cleaning: Injector #1 261.0 cc/min with good pattern, Injector #2 237.0 cc/min and dripping.

After Cleaning: Injector #1 270.0 cc/min with excellent pattern, Injector #2 269.0 cc/min with excellent pattern.

I used regular allens like in Scott's pic for the reattachment rather than the flat head allens that were original. The problem with the flatheads is the "key" is so small you can't put any real torque on it so removal of a seized screw is tough. that's why I had to dremel one out.

The first hookup and run had gas leaking out of the top injector to fuel line connector. I disassembled it, the o-ring looked good so then I put it back together. I learned the test for correct assembly is if the injector could be spun in the fuel connection. previously it could not.

A short ride tonight confirmed that the Lemans is running vastly better and is money well spent. Only $100 roundtrip to clean the injectors. This next weekend I'll take a couple hour ride to confirm.

Now I have another problem to correct. I changed over the Lemans indicator lights to LED from #74 bulbs so that I could actually see them in the daytime. The fuel light stays on now. The fix is to wire the original bulb back in parallel with the led to get the proper load. I hate opening up the instrument cluster but either I put the bulb back in which I cannot see in the daytime or wire the original bulb in. I have two sockets on order.
 
not-fishing said:
Now I have another problem to correct. I changed over the Lemans indicator lights to LED from #74 bulbs so that I could actually see them in the daytime. The fuel light stays on now. The fix is to wire the original bulb back in parallel with the led to get the proper load. I hate opening up the instrument cluster but either I put the bulb back in which I cannot see in the daytime or wire the original bulb in. I have two sockets on order.
Click to expand...

My suggestion is to get an ohm reading of the bulb, then just solder in a resister (in series from the sending unit) of approximately the same value in the wire to the sending unit.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top