• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

California 1400 hanging throttle

I had the sticking throttle problem too. Turned out that my Temp sensor was going bad, once it was replaced never happened again.
 
My 2014 California does that as well. I've got 7700 miles on it now; I didn't notice it at first, but on any downhill with throttle closed the loss of engine breaking is very noticeable at 3000 rpm. When coming to a stop in gear with the clutch in, it wants to idle at 1500+ rpm. If I put it in neutral and let out the clutch, it drops to normal idle of 1000-1100 rpm. I figured it had to be the way the ECU was programmed, but I'd like to know more about the temperature sensor Mike mentioned.
 
My 2014 California does that as well. I've got 7700 miles on it now; I didn't notice it at first, but on any downhill with throttle closed the loss of engine breaking is very noticeable at 3000 rpm.

If you're a fan of engine braking (as I am), the cure for the 1400 California is Todd's reflashed ECU, as advertised on the store this site. You would have to take your bike to him, as I don't think he offers a reflash kit for this model.

An alternative which offers a slight improvement can be achieved by disconnecting the lambda sensors. It doesn't show up as an error on the dashboard, but it will on some diagnostic programs. Doesn't appear to hurt anything, and the idle appears to drop a bit too.
 
My 2014 California does that as well. I've got 7700 miles on it now; I didn't notice it at first, but on any downhill with throttle closed the loss of engine breaking is very noticeable at 3000 rpm. When coming to a stop in gear with the clutch in, it wants to idle at 1500+ rpm. If I put it in neutral and let out the clutch, it drops to normal idle of 1000-1100 rpm. I figured it had to be the way the ECU was programmed, but I'd like to know more about the temperature sensor Mike mentioned.

Does your cruise control work?..if not it is the clutch switch.
 
My cruise control works as designed, and it doesn't seem to matter which throttle map it's in (although I have to admit I have never used the rain mode here in Phoenix...).
 
My 2014 California does that as well. I've got 7700 miles on it now; I didn't notice it at first, but on any downhill with throttle closed the loss of engine breaking is very noticeable at 3000 rpm. When coming to a stop in gear with the clutch in, it wants to idle at 1500+ rpm. If I put it in neutral and let out the clutch, it drops to normal idle of 1000-1100 rpm. I figured it had to be the way the ECU was programmed, but I'd like to know more about the temperature sensor Mike mentioned.

Check the clutch switch. No kidding. I had the exact same symptoms when I broke my clutch switch. Replaced it and the issues went away.
 
All, the "Clutch switch" seems to have been identified as the potential source of several problems with the Cali 1400. Some with potential serious consequences.

What, if any, early warning symptoms are there?
Is clutch switch failure more likely on a given year / model?
Does it make sense to change the switch at the earliest opportunity, in the hope that the replacement is less likely to fail?
 
All, the "Clutch switch" seems to have been identified as the potential source of several problems with the Cali 1400. Some with potential serious consequences.

What, if any, early warning symptoms are there?
Is clutch switch failure more likely on a given year / model?
Does it make sense to change the switch at the earliest opportunity, in the hope that the replacement is less likely to fail?

I was helped diagnosing my faulty clutch switch by gurus here. try the cruise control. .when it doesn't work, clutch switch was 20170415 092209 bad. My switch lasted a couple years before failing, 2014 cali touring, .. factory part about $80-90 US or solder on new micro-switch ( save money) don't fix if isn't broken
 
...I was helped diagnosing my faulty clutch switch by gurus here. ....

I couldn't agree more I've yet to have an issue with any of my Guzzis that one or more of the Gurus, and or individual contributor hasn't addressed logically, completely and politely.

I had a plan to save money on M/C maintenance. Enabled our number 1 son to get his motorcycle mechanic certification at the local technical college. Even brought a '96 Sport 1100 to get him working on Guzzi's while he was at school. Now he has his certificate, is earning his own money, has his own bikes, and "is in a relationship". I have to make an appointment for any work that doesn't result in faster and/or louder. :(
 
Re: Clutch switch, if the clutch switch is the problem, does it not throw a SERVICE code on the dash?

Also, if the clutch switch is causing the engine braking to cut out at 3000 RPM, does the cruise control continue to operate in some circumstances?

My situation:
Stock filter and airbox.
Moaning Whale done. (Air box not
Mistral pipes installed
Cruise control works fine
Valves checked, .006" intake and .008" exhaust

Engine braking cuts in above 3000 RPM and cuts out below 3000 RPM. VERY repeatable. Like a switch is being thrown (not gradual) Hot or cool engine, like the ECU is controlling it. Down a long grade with throttle closed, engine braking goes on, off, on, off, on, off, as RPMs float above and below 3000.

I've noticed the other "hanging throttle" issue on a few occasions when braking to a stop. As others have stated, idle drops quickly to normal when clutch is pulled. I wonder if it's just the lack of engine braking that I'm feeling in that RPM range? Behavior is VERY similar to simply rolling throttle on slightly during engine braking, so it seems as if air is being added to the engine. If Todd's reflash kills this behavior, then it has to be in the mapping, except I believe at least one party in this very lengthy thread has indicated that the problem continues even after the whole Guzzitech enchilada(??)

Another 2016 Eldorado owner told me, as we discussed this problem, that he finds engine braking to be "more aggressive" in Veloce mode, but hasn't really watched closely connection between RPMs and engine braking. I'm going to change modes and see if I notice a change in engine braking performance. TBD...
 
Another 2016 Eldorado owner told me, as we discussed this problem, that he finds engine braking to be "more aggressive" in Veloce mode, but hasn't really watched closely connection between RPMs and engine braking. I'm going to change modes and see if I notice a change in engine braking performance. TBD...

Interesting. I prefer the Turismo mode, because I experience more engine braking, especially with the stock ECU.
 
Interesting. I prefer the Turismo mode, because I experience more engine braking, especially with the stock ECU.

I'm sure I read somewhere that engine braking is also affected by the traction control setting with the strongest braking with traction control off. That being said I have mine on level 1 and haven't noticed any problems.
 
The engine braking you describe is the same as my Touring. I believe the map is adding some fuel on overrun when the revs drop below around 3000rpm. If you want more engine braking you have to drop down enough gears so the overrun is in a higher rev range. The 'hanging throttle' referred to, I also experienced when my clutch switch went faulty and threw a SERVICE code. In this case, the bike would hold a 1500rpm idle at certain times.

Stephen
 
I also experienced when my clutch switch went faulty and threw a SERVICE code. In this case, the bike would hold a 1500rpm idle at certain times.
Stephen

Yeah, the dreaded "limp home" mode was activated. I couldn't get up my driveway when my bike was in this mode. Well, to be fair, I wasn't trying to get home, but to take my bike to the dealer. Perhaps there should be a "limp to the dealer" mode.
 
I believe the map is adding some fuel on overrun when the revs drop below around 3000rpm.
Actually, I believe it's the "Fly by Wire" throttle system opening the butterfly on command by the ECU. Adding fuel would just foul the plugs, and it's actually restricted manifold airflow/maximum vacuum, not lack of fuel, that causes the engine to retard RPM's. Plus, adding fuel would eliminate or decrease popping on trailing throttle, which is actually the opposite of what happens, with the engine running VERY lean in that range with throttle closed.
The poster who mentioned engine braking cutting in and out while in the midst of a turn makes an extremely good point regarding the safety of the operator. This is really an issue that Guzzi should address with an ECU update.

Does Todd's reflash affect the throttle "fly by wire" function, or just address fueling, lamda sensor, and timing performance?
 
I had the sticking throttle problem too. Turned out that my Temp sensor was going bad, once it was replaced never happened again.
Mike, can you tell me more about the Temp. Sensor, where it's located? Ect. Did you only replace just the sensor, or was anything else done to your bike? how did you diagnose? This weekend my idle was sticking @ about 3000 rpm again. Very warm outside temp. I was driving up a winding mountain. I just recently replaced my clutch switch. Just rode it a moment ago to check the cruise control worked. Yes It did. Now I am looking for another cure, you may have it. Seems to only happen when eng. Is very warm , thought I had it fixed
 
The dealer says my clutch switch checks out OK, so I will check the deceleration issue when I get it back. Cruise control has always worked on it. They finally got the clutch slippage problem figured out, so I should get it back soon.
 
Back
Top