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2002 Nevada - fork plugs?

guzzisti91

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Feb 2, 2018
Messages
79
Location
Villawood
I discovered the bolt in the picture after removing my front wheel. There are 2 of these. They are located on top of the axle right on the bottom of the fork reservoir. All i could find online about these bolts were that they are hex socket screws, but nothing about their function. I also found that there are gas shocks you can insert into forks as an upgrade, but i digress.
Are they drain plugs? Or do they serve another purpose?
 

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Yes they secure the cartridge/spring assembly.
No need to remove them unless you are rebuilding the forks.
 
Yes they secure the cartridge/spring assembly.
No need to remove them unless you are rebuilding the forks.
So that means i still have to change the fork oil from the other end? I really don't want to remove the forks, so i came up with an elaborate plan to siphon the old oil before swabbing then adding new oil (dexron III was recommended). That was before i discovered these bolts
 
So that means i still have to change the fork oil from the other end? I really don't want to remove the forks, so i came up with an elaborate plan to siphon the old oil before swabbing then adding new oil (dexron III was recommended). That was before i discovered these bolts


Really easy, remove one fork tube at a time. Invert fork tube to drain oil. Fill from top. Set the tube back in and use a vernier caliper to match height to the other fork. Repeat for the other side. The Nevada uses bushings in the slider and end of the fork tube. You can't put it together without cutting the seal if left in place in the slider. If you do take the tubes apart, the seal is the last part to install and it takes a special seal driver. So, take the easy route.

If you are not comfortable doing this, I suggest you take it to a shop or someone that has experience with these types of forks.
 
Really easy, remove one fork tube at a time. Invert fork tube to drain oil. Fill from top. Set the tube back in and use a vernier caliper to match height to the other fork. Repeat for the other side. The Nevada uses bushings in the slider and end of the fork tube. You can't put it together without cutting the seal if left in place in the slider. If you do take the tubes apart, the seal is the last part to install and it takes a special seal driver. So, take the easy route.

If you are not comfortable doing this, I suggest you take it to a shop or someone that has experience with these types of forks.
By tubes you mean the chrome pole & the painted part that attaches to the wheel? I was simply going to remove the top cap & inner spring before inserting the hand siphon. To remove the metal bits i was going to swab it with a clean rag on a thin pole. I have no intention of taking it apart. I don't have access to verniers or measuring equipment, & removing the forks involve removing the screen, so i've got 2 things to worry about there.
Otherwise, there's sticky tape & a flat bit of metal. By the way, the wheel was removed because the tyres are perished
 
By tubes you mean the chrome pole & the painted part that attaches to the wheel? I was simply going to remove the top cap & inner spring before inserting the hand siphon. To remove the metal bits i was going to swab it with a clean rag on a thin pole. I have no intention of taking it apart. I don't have access to verniers or measuring equipment, & removing the forks involve removing the screen, so i've got 2 things to worry about there.
Otherwise, there's sticky tape & a flat bit of metal. By the way, the wheel was removed because the tyres are perished

Using a siphon won't work. There is too much internal to the fork leg to get a hose to the bottom. You could drain the oil by loosening the Allen screw that holds the internal rid and allow oil to drain past, however when you have drained the oil and tighten the Allen screw it may not seal. I strongly recommend you take the bike to a shop that can do the service as It seems beyond your current capability.
 
Using a siphon won't work. There is too much internal to the fork leg to get a hose to the bottom. You could drain the oil by loosening the Allen screw that holds the internal rid and allow oil to drain past, however when you have drained the oil and tighten the Allen screw it may not seal. I strongly recommend you take the bike to a shop that can do the service as It seems beyond your current capability.
If only i had that luxury, Johnny. Even though they all have the tools, no one wants to touch my bike except for my nearest Guzzi dealer, who will charge the earth & my working schedule is far too prohibitive - so i have neither the time nor the money to take it to a pro. I have little choice but to learn these things. I have found a workshop manual online & have decided to try the usual way after examining the diagrams. I have never changed fork oil before in anything - my previous dealings with suspension were with gas charged shocks in cars & front preload on a CB400 (i worked close to a bike shop at the time, & the pro i took it to felt the need to show me what a perfect job i did). However, there is much rust on the parts between the tree clamps & the right fork is now siezed halfway between them - right where it rusted the most. Broke a screwdriver trying to open up the lower tree some more. The manager at my work fashioned a soft metal drift from an allen key & i will invest in some wd40 & sandpaper. Normally i don't even think about forks but when i bought the Nevada i knew it was something special. Cosmetically, i will leave it with a rustic look. But i want to know the ins & outs of this thing to keep it purring.

But, otherwise, my question has been answered. Thanks again
 
If the fork tubes are rusted that badly, they may need replacement. Rust on the tubes over time weakens the metal. If the tube fails the result for you would not be good. Make sure the fork tubes are strong before you go too far with this bike.
 
If the fork tubes are rusted that badly, they may need replacement. Rust on the tubes over time weakens the metal. If the tube fails the result for you would not be good. Make sure the fork tubes are strong before you go too far with this bike.
I believe this to be surface rust, as it scrapes off just fine, & the screwdriver didn't make a dent. Although that chrome paint is flaking like mad where it rusts, but i will test the strength after i sand it. I saw what can happen with that. Lovely things
 
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