• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Metal particles in CARC oil

NPS

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Contributor
Joined
Dec 11, 2008
Messages
262
Location
Churchdown, Gloucester, UK
I'm asking for help with with my CARC. I recently split the CARC as part of my restoration project last year, to replace the large 18 ball race with a 19 ball version. I have just drained the oil (at +600 miles) to replace the oil seal that is leaking. I have found a large amount of metal particles in the oil. There are no flakes just fine fillings.

I decided to split the CARC today to check internally. The large ball bearing runs very smooth as does the smaller outer bearing on the main, large bevel bear shaft. The gears turn smoothly and there is no sign of play or anything untoward. It is very hard to see the bevel gear teeth or check the condition of the needle rollers with out disassembly.

Does anyone with knowledge have any suggestions for my next step?

The only thing I can think of is that it is from the main bevel bearings not being in the correct home position when the CARC is closed up. So this could put a side load on those bearings. Before I had not changed anything except for the large bearing. So it should be as it was before when the oli was always free of particles. The only change has been that it was opened and closed and a new large bearing fitted.

Here is a photo of the oil. The old oil seal is in there as I was replacing it with a new one after an oil leak from the seal.
20180330 142609 1
 
Have you used a magnet to determine if particles are ferrous?
moving a magnet in the oil picked up nothing. Holding a magnet below the plastic container made no force lines and made no visible disruption to the bands of contamination in the oil.
I'm now scratching my head as the gears and bearings are all magnetic.
 
Are you using a different brand of oil? Did you possibly get water contamination? Put in an oil you have used before and run 500 miles and check the oil for contamination again. Could be most anything and a change may clear it up.
 
Back
Top