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V1000 G5 breaker assembly question

Frey

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Oct 8, 2015
Messages
44
Location
Happy Valley
I thought I'd lined up points correctly when putting the Popemobile back together, but apparentlly I didn't. Had spark, so I thought I'd check out timing. Looking through the peep hole, I lined up the mark just before the D and looked at the contact breaker and cam, and it appeared to be well off. The manual says, when D is so positioned, turn the camshaft so that the cam is just where the (right/red) breaker begins to open. Great, no problem. However, because of the helical gear, when inserting the breaker unit, the camshaft is advanced significantly.

So, the question: is this expected; or should I withdraw the breaker unit and align it a bit before the cam opens the point, so that when it is inserted and advances somewhat it will be just opening when installed?

Thanks for any help. I'm hoping to do this just once, as this is a real PITA with engine in frame and everything else ready to go.

Cheers,

Frey
 
Set the RH cylinder at TDC with both valves closed. Yes the cam will rotate so you start the insertion at a different point to compensate. BTW, the points don't trigger a firing every time the D appears, just once every 2 revolutions. That is why you need to set it up as I described.
 
Thanks, John. Quick clarification needed. You said to set the RH cylinder at TDC. According to the manual, you'd set the RH cylinder not at TDC, but 2 degrees from TDC, which is noted by a mark just before the D. Are you suggesting that instead of using that mark, I should set at TDC and not at the line just before that?
 
Thanks, John. Quick clarification needed. You said to set the RH cylinder at TDC. According to the manual, you'd set the RH cylinder not at TDC, but 2 degrees from TDC, which is noted by a mark just before the D. Are you suggesting that instead of using that mark, I should set at TDC and not at the line just before that?

That gets you in the ball park. You can rotate the body of the "distributor" to set timing for the right cylinder, then sliding the points assembly to time the left.. You should be using a timing light or similar device to set timing. That 2 degrees on the crank equates to 1 degree at the camshaft. Barely noticeable. I mentioned TDC with both valves closed to make sure you are on the correct cycle for that cylinder.
 
Well, I think I'm getting closer. Rather than no noise other than cranking, now it sounds like popcorn popping, though still not starting. Not sure I'm getting enough fuel.
 
Well, I think I'm getting closer. Rather than no noise other than cranking, now it sounds like popcorn popping, though still not starting. Not sure I'm getting enough fuel.

Cranking on the starter you can check timing with a strobe light. Are you close on the timing of both cylinders?
 
Hi guys. First time in a forum and I hope someone can help. I am building a custom G5 1000 Guzzi 1981 model. I cannot get the timing 100% Firstly my flywheel only has one mark for each cylinder (S & D) and so I must assume these marks are for TDC. (Yes you read correctly....no marks for BTDC...one mark only for each cylinder. ) My assumption that these marks are for TDC is probably correct and so not really a problem. My problem is that I cannot move the bottom plate holding the contact breakers for the left cylinder enough to get the breakers to open at the correct moment. This plate is moved to the right as far as it can go. I have even modified this plate to move further to the right but it is still not enough. The result is that the left cylinder timing is retarded and the plug burns dry black sooty and pops and missis a bit. I have got new contact breakers which look identical to the old ones and images on the web. Any advice please.
 
Hi guys. First time in a forum and I hope someone can help. I am building a custom G5 1000 Guzzi 1981 model. I cannot get the timing 100% Firstly my flywheel only has one mark for each cylinder (S & D) and so I must assume these marks are for TDC. (Yes you read correctly....no marks for BTDC...one mark only for each cylinder. ) My assumption that these marks are for TDC is probably correct and so not really a problem. My problem is that I cannot move the bottom plate holding the contact breakers for the left cylinder enough to get the breakers to open at the correct moment. This plate is moved to the right as far as it can go. I have even modified this plate to move further to the right but it is still not enough. The result is that the left cylinder timing is retarded and the plug burns dry black sooty and pops and missis a bit. I have got new contact breakers which look identical to the old ones and images on the web. Any advice please.


Close the point gap a few thousands for the left cylinder. That will advance the timing for that cylinder.
 
Thanks John. Will let you know after I have time to work on it. The lack of timing marks is also puzzling. If there is only one mark on the flywheel it is either a TDC or the mark used for a strobe light. The only way to find out is to find a degree wheel to attach to the front of the crank as discussed earlier. However, if I can get the points correct, even with a slight modification of the LHS plate, I can advance and retard the timing by moving my distributor until I get optimal running with a nice brown colour on both cylinders. The left cylinder has always missed and farted a bit..
 
Thanks John. Will let you know after I have time to work on it. The lack of timing marks is also puzzling. If there is only one mark on the flywheel it is either a TDC or the mark used for a strobe light. The only way to find out is to find a degree wheel to attach to the front of the crank as discussed earlier. However, if I can get the points correct, even with a slight modification of the LHS plate, I can advance and retard the timing by moving my distributor until I get optimal running with a nice brown colour on both cylinders. The left cylinder has always missed and farted a bit..

My Guzzi is purring. The new points I ordered were made for a Fiat and looked exactly the same as the old ones. On very close inspection there were minute differences. I cleaned up the old points and she is running very well. There are only 2 timing marks for each cylinder but by advancing and retarding the distributer I quickly found optimum firing. I will now monitor the plugs to get a nice brown colour.
 
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