• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

How-To, check swingarm and linkage bearings on NTX

If you've got your Linkages off/apart for cleaning & greasing, you may as well fit Grease Nipples.
Linkage

You'll also need to drill small (2mm or so) exit holes for the old dirty Grease to escape while you're pumping the nice fresh stuff in.
Linkage1


You can do the Swing-Arm Bearings as well, but due to the Frame design around them, it's only possible via a modified Spindle.
SwingArmAxle2Dia
 
This is a combination of several recent threads all heading in the same direction: swingarm bearings for CARC bikes.

My 2012 Stelvio NTX showed no signs of any bearing or linkage problems but as a preventative measure I decided to check anyway. The bike has about 6500 miles. Since the seat was off for a re-cover this was the perfect time.

The service manual spells out the procedure: put bike on center stand, remove rear wheel (caliper first), remove speed sensor, remove left side rack, remove left foot peg assembly, remove muffler. Now we are down to the real operation.

Disconnect the reaction arm from the CARC assembly, support the CARC so it does not drop down too far. I used rope.

View attachment 19402

Remove the aluminum link that goes between the shock, swingarm, and frame.

View attachment 19403

There are three bolts. Pay attention to which way they are inserted because you want to put all this back the same way. Each bolt goes through a bushing. Push that bushing out with your finger, watch out for the needle bearings that will want to fall out. I recommend doing this over a towel to catch the bearings. The bearings fell out because there was not much grease there to hold them in place. Put the bearings back and slather in lots of high quality bearing grease, I recommend synthetic but use what you like.

View attachment 19404

Re-insert the bushings and reassemble two of the three bolts. The third bolt will link up with the swingarm when you are finished with the swingarm bearings.

Loosen two pinch bolts on the left side of the swingarm. There is a special nut on the swingarm axle, I got the appropriate socket from the UK but now they are available from GuzziTech. This nut is not very tight, it's actually just a sleeve that goes over the axle. Next, you will need a 14mm allen wrench to unscrew the axle itself. Before you take the axle out it's a good idea to snip off the straps holding the rubber bellows that go between the transmission and the swingarm...on the right side of the bike. OK, now remove the swingarm axle. It helps if you have a second person working with you. I used some 1/4" nylon line to support the CARC/swingarm assembly.

I pulled the swingarm free but that left the driveshaft attached to the output shaft.

View attachment 19405

The shaft is held in place on a splined shaft by a circlip.

View attachment 19406

It took some taps with a ball peen hammer but all of a sudden everything was in my hands.

Now you can clearly see the swingarm bearings.

View attachment 19407

and driveshaft splines.

View attachment 19408

I'll bet there is very little grease on the bearings. Inspect the bearings and the cones they run in.

View attachment 19409

If you see any imperfections or can feel any it's time to replace the bearings. They list for $16 each at the dealer. I can't find anyone else who carries the correct bearing with attached seal.

Once again, slather lots of high quality grease on the bearings. For the splines I recommend a moly paste.

Now comes reassembly. Obviously this is the same process but in reverse, however I found it impossible to get the drive shaft to mate up with the CARC splines so I had to split the CARC from the swingarm.

View attachment 19410

It's really no big deal, just 4 bolts. Now you can re-attach the drive shaft to the output shaft and thread the driveshaft through the swingarm as you line it up to insert the swingarm axle. This is really easy as the CARC is still unattached. Here I'm using the 14mm allen socket to screw the axle into place.

View attachment 19411

This is the business end of the CARC.

View attachment 19412

After the swingarm is secure you can re-attach the CARC and proceed with reassembly.

For me, doing this the first time, it took about 1.5 hours for dis-assembly and about 2 hours to put everything back in place with lube, etc.
Just did the swing arm service on the Stelvio. With the help of this post it was easy. Thanks
 
Back
Top