• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

V7iii Spark plug options

D

Dinsdale Piranha

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Contributor
Joined
Jul 16, 2017
Messages
455
Location
West Oz
G'day from WA,

Does anyone here know of a platinum/yttrium/iridium spark plug alternative for the V7iii engine? Standard NGK plugs in my bike barely make 10,000Km. They're really quite eroded by then. Hoping there'll be something out there, unavailable over the counter in Oz.
 
Last edited:
Do you have a V7II or V7III, thread header says one thing, thread body says the other.

Same plug anyways, I think.
I found same plug in the Iridium but the screw on post on top, that means if you put those type of caps on it, you'll find the plugs in the correct heat range in Iridium.
Do a little reading here and you'll find it all.
 
Last edited:
If I was burning a set of plugs in just over 6000 miles (10,000 km) I would be concerned.
Is it the metal part that is going bad or the insulator?

How about a decent pic of the bad plug?
 
NGK CPR8EB-9 you won't find but CPR8EAIX are the Iridium. Just need a cap w/wire in it or some posts that screw on the top. Just trying to help him out. Maybe plugs weren't gaped right, I never trust pre-gaped stuff.
 
Sorry for the confusion. It's a V7iii.

My plugs aren't burnt, but they are eroded, as plugs are wont to do, Corners of electrodes are all rounded off and gaps opened a thou or 2. Wider gaps are less of a problem than rounded electrodes. The sharper the edges on the electrodes the stronger the spark. The plug colour is perfect, but after a recent 11,000Km ride, with plenty of getting right amongst it in lotsa tight, twisty mountain roads, the performance drop-off by the end was noticeable. Plugs are a replacement item every 10,000Km anyway, but iridium (et al) plugs perform better from new and maintain their superior performance for up to 100,000Km. That also translates into far less money spent on plugs.

Are the NGK CPR8EAIX the same heat range as the std NGK CPR8EB-9?
 
That's one of the sites I got my info from. If you have some screw on posts for the top of the plug you can use stock caps on the wires. The plugs may even come w/them screwed on the top, I save that stuff when I throw away plugs.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top