• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Norge clutch engages at very end of lever travel

Mumbufuku

Just got it firing!
Joined
Apr 19, 2019
Messages
12
Location
Northeast ohio
Back at it again with another issue(maybe). My clutch lever will only engage within the last 1/2 inch or so of travel. the grab point seems to happen sooner(from full lever pull to fully out) after the engine and transmission warm up a bit. I know its a hydraulic clutch and there is no adjustment. I'm also not experiencing any clutch slippage at all. I know that typically in cars when the clutch pedal goes almost all the way up before engaging it means the clutch is worn out and needs to be replaced. I just want to know if i should be prepared for a clutch replacement soon.

As i side note when i bled the clutch master cylinder i used dot 3 not dot 4 because that is what i had readily available. I doubt that would make any difference but figured i should mention it.

ALSO my clutch master has a very minor leak from the lever. Would that mess with the clutch engagement point?
 
I know of a case where a chap pulled his Griso engine and clutch out. The clutch was in perfect condition. He'd used the incorrect clutch fluid.
 
Back at it again with another issue(maybe). My clutch lever will only engage within the last 1/2 inch or so of travel. the grab point seems to happen sooner(from full lever pull to fully out) after the engine and transmission warm up a bit. I know its a hydraulic clutch and there is no adjustment. I'm also not experiencing any clutch slippage at all. I know that typically in cars when the clutch pedal goes almost all the way up before engaging it means the clutch is worn out and needs to be replaced. I just want to know if i should be prepared for a clutch replacement soon.

As i side note when i bled the clutch master cylinder i used dot 3 not dot 4 because that is what i had readily available. I doubt that would make any difference but figured i should mention it.

ALSO my clutch master has a very minor leak from the lever. Would that mess with the clutch engagement point?


If the master has a leak, replace it. Fill with DOT 4. It can stand higher heat than DOT 3.
 
Well it turns out the minor leak has turned into a very large leak:( before i fork over 400 dollars for an oem master cylinder is there any other cheaper alternatives? I cant imagine there's much difference between master cylinders from say... a Honda or something readily available.
 
Well it turns out the minor leak has turned into a very large leak:( before i fork over 400 dollars for an oem master cylinder is there any other cheaper alternatives? I cant imagine there's much difference between master cylinders from say... a Honda or something readily available.
There's many options, just depends on how much "rigging" you'll want to do to make your mirror mount and the switchgear housing for the windscreen buttons and related. I offer several (serious) upgrades on the site here; https://gtmotocycles.com/search?type=product&q=clutch+pump -- however I'm a Brembo dealer, so I can get anything currently available. The stock pump new is $225. Contact me direct to order if you'd like; Info @ GuzziTech.com
 
Back
Top