• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

V7 Starter switch fail - No Power - Power Loss

GTM®

Administrator
Staff member
GT di Razza Pura
Joined
Jul 1, 2009
Messages
15,059
Location
Malibu
Post below started on this topic. Many of the 2013 ~ current V7 & V9's will have this issue in time. The lower ignition switch wires can become unsoldered (see pic below). You either have to remove and repair, or replace the part by taking it from the new lockset assembly. It is not available from Guzzi outside of the ignition only (2D000351) or the complete lockset (2B003493) including gas cap and seat lock assys. On bikes where you can push the key downwards to get the ignition to come on, the raised solder connection points may need to be restored by building up the domes again. They can wear down with use and time. Will post a pic next we do one in the shop.

E1C96378 8B31 499F 894E F47578EDAE06

All,

Ever since I bought the bike about two years ago I have an erratic issue. Turn the key, dials boot up, then press starter switch. Probably 75% of the time: normal start. Other times: nothing. Did it this morning again. I turned off key, and on again, and then normal start.

I wonder, perhaps, if my gloved thumb is an issue? Seems if I press the right EDGE of the starter button, it starts. One time while running errands it took me maybe five tries for the bike to catch. Battery, I think, is good. Bike runs great, has about 4000 miles, and is two years old.

Any ideas? Should I have Mike Haven at MPH replace the switch? Corrosion or contact issue? Other possible causes?

Love this bike, but the start erratic issue does give me a bit of pause, do not want to get stranded.

Thoughts please?

Grazie in advance.
 
My Iii has done the same thing since new. Now at 13000 miles. I popped the cover off the switch housing top. Saw no reason for it. Deoxit might have helped for a while but too sporadic to know. 90% of the time it's when near other bikers. I'll try to remember to switch on & off the ignition switch next time. I really think it's a poor contact at the push button. Keep pushing on several times and so far it's all good. Let us know if you figure it out first. I know somebody else had it too last year.
 
Vagrant,

Wow thanks for your comment! It is erratic as hell. So far I have not been stranded. I am going to have Mike Haven do a fall tune up, and will have him take a look at the switch. We will see and I will report back sometime October or so.
 
We had a nice ride this morning, no starting issues. I do think, maybe, the starter switch works best with thumb on extreme right edge of button. Bike ran flawlessly, it is a gem, love it.
 
Starter switch has been extremely balky: twice a big fuss to start bike. So, I rode it into MPH Auto in Katy, TX, Mike Haven is going to fix it, and give the bike a full maintenance. Also Mike will replace the half-plastic gas filter (thanks for heads up on that). Mike thinks the bike has classic "startus interruptus"... he has a hardware fix to boost starter solenoid voltage from battery...we will see.

So yeah, I hope to get back a reliable V7 III Moto Guzzi Special. I will report results.
 
Ok, just picked my 2017 V7 III Special up from Mike Haven, here in Houston. Mike concluded the start issue was due to a corroded starter switch. He removed it, cleaned contacts with "oxy-clean", and some additional cleaning. He also checked battery connections, etc. Bike seems happy starting now.

Note over the past 2.5 years I have been caught in some classic Houston downpour rains. And even though garaged, and drying the bike, with our extreme humidity: switches corrode. Never happened with my 2012 V7 Racer though.

And, he changed out the fuel filter. Sure enough, it was swollen and ready to fail at 4100 miles.

Bike is fully serviced, hopefully reliable, and ready to roll. I am planning a week long ride in central TX with my nephews.

Mike also said his "startus-interruptus" wiring fix will not work with Mark III as wiring changed. He is going to examine new wiring scheme, perhaps it is not causing problems as in previous models.
 
My Iii has done the same thing since new. Now at 13000 miles. I popped the cover off the switch housing top. Saw no reason for it. Deoxit might have helped for a while but too sporadic to know. 90% of the time it's when near other bikers. I'll try to remember to switch on & off the ignition switch next time. I really think it's a poor contact at the push button. Keep pushing on several times and so far it's all good. Let us know if you figure it out first. I know somebody else had it too last year.

Vagrant: Mike Haven agrees: issue is corroded starter switch. Perhaps take it apart again, and really clean it well. Or, replace switch?
 
My starter switch was corroded. Guess they don't seal well, and with our Houston, TX rain, and high humidity: after 2 years use needed major cleaning. So beware of dead starter switches.

I hope my bike is good to roll, I am planning some fall trips with cooler weather.
 
I'd replace it. A new one isn't cheap, but why struggle and wonder if the one you have will work when asked even if you take it apart again to clean it. Usually once corrosion starts, it is nearly impossible to prevent future corrosion even once it is cleaned up.
 
Had to get my start switch replaced at about 1500 miles. It was sticking in the start position, so the bike would start when I pushed the kill switch to the run position. Tripped a check engine light and traction control fault. (Because of the traction control calibration procedure)
 
I've been trying to pay more attention to the switch before I try to start the bike. it is not a push button it is a rocker that rocks / pivots in to the right. I suspect I / we have trying to push it in and it just doesn't contact sometimes. so far (knock on wood) it has worked each time I remember to push on the right side and not the center.
 
Yeah so my update: button fixed last Monday via cleaning by Mike at MPH: no issues. Start on Friday morning: a bit balky, but not terrible. This morning: immediate start, and also retested, another immediate start after ride. I do very much think the button works best when pressed fairly hard on extreme right edge. Agree with vagrant comment. I am going to avoid replacing the entire switch assembly if possible. I do wonder if humidity swings are part of what is going on? Very dry here this morning in Houston area (unusual).
 
I always suggest owners get a can of contact lubricand and cleaner and spray it into every switch and connector they can find. Helps keep that green switch killer at bay.
 
Not seen the wiring diagram for the III, but I wouldn't be surprised if the problem was still linked to the startus interruptus issue.
Any electrical system experts here? I may copy the V7 III wiring diagram to Mike Haven at MPH in Houston and have him take a look. My bike was the first Mark III he had seen.

Sooner or later I will sort this out.
 
I am still suspicious the issue is related to battery charge. Sunday morning, after the bike sitting a week, start was a bit balky. Rode the 25 miles into church, and next start immediate. Stopped at gas station, start immediate. I am keeping a log. If the balky starts consistently correlate to bike sitting, I am ordering a lithium battery from GT and replacing. Switch gear is very expensive.
 
Lucydad, did you ever install the relay by-pass? That solved my issues completely. Now on year 2 of same lead battery starts every time whether sitting for awhile or not, hot or cold.
 
Back
Top