• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

GTM ECU V7 & V9 Flash Tool

Yes. It is very easy to find it. Press on Diagnostic icon on lower left and then press on My bike icon on lower right and then select throtle position reset in the middle. (If I remember the step right.)

When I saw your post, sometime I confuse it's my post haha. We have the same color bike.

Same! Thanks for the insight!
 
Hey guys I’m currently reading the stock file. Is this normal?
 

Attachments

  • E54D7297-A504-40AF-BA82-AEA7F4C84659.jpeg
    E54D7297-A504-40AF-BA82-AEA7F4C84659.jpeg
    155.9 KB · Views: 84
  • 437D66B2-3C3D-4753-81BA-CD38CF56EA02.jpeg
    437D66B2-3C3D-4753-81BA-CD38CF56EA02.jpeg
    179.8 KB · Views: 80
Done and done!

GP Megs mufflers + ECU flash + Evap removal + SAS block

Compared to stock, the Guzzi has a deep, throaty sound (GP Megs), more consistent pull across the entire rpm range until gear shift light comes on (ECU Flash), and once you complete SAS/Evap, it feels like the motor breathes more freely (the sound is more raw, the pull is stronger, and quicker response).

Evap - by-pass the valve on the breather line (gas tank straight to evap canister), most of the vacuum line is removed, the intake manifold is blocked, and evap canister stays in place.

I test rode it up the 154, gassed up, rode around town. No fuel spill, no problem at all, only the good stuff.

Todd - many thanks for the brilliant fuel
mapping and plug-and-play SAS kit and for making my bike fun to ride again.
 
Congrats!!!
See...???? Pretty nice results, yes?! :)

Yes... my only regret is having waited six months because the whole ECU reflash is pretty new to me and I’m afraid of screwing up my only daily driver.

During that one hour test ride, I was smiling all the way as I squeezed the throttle. Wasn’t going very fast, but most fun!
 
To those that have completed the flash, performed the EVAP and SAS removal and upgraded the exhaust, do you get a ton of popping on decel or throttle roll off?

I just added the full 2:2 Guzzitech meg system along with the mods mentioned above and get tons of popping and gurgling. I LOVE it. It sounds so raw and agressive. I just ask if others experience this, because reading seems to indicate that most people don't prefer that sound and mention that the flash gets rid of those popping sounds.

The bike feels excellent after the flash and mods. I highly suggest it to anyone reading this. Todd was super quick and easy to work with as well.
 
To those that have completed the flash, performed the EVAP and SAS removal and upgraded the exhaust, do you get a ton of popping on decel or throttle roll off?
I caution you on this, as it sounds like you may have an exhaust leak at the cylinder heads or similar. You should have very little or no closed throttle popping. If you like that, once you verify there is no leak, I am able to do this with the fuel map.
 
I caution you on this, as it sounds like you may have an exhaust leak at the cylinder heads or similar. You should have very little or no closed throttle popping. If you like that, once you verify there is no leak, I am able to do this with the fuel map.
How does one verify there are no leaks? I get a decal pop every now and then and just figured that was normal, even with full GT setup (2>1, map, SAS, evap removed).
 
How does one verify there are no leaks? I get a decal pop every now and then and just figured that was normal, even with full GT setup (2>1, map, SAS, evap removed).
Depending on air temps, a pop or two is normal.
Leaks can normally be detected by ear, or if bad enough, by hand or a match/lighter near the heads. If you are at all accustomed to this sound, another way to check is to use a vacuum hose. Hold one end close to your ear, not against it, and the other end around the head pipes at the cylinder heads. Sealed connections make no noise, leaks are obvious if only on one side. Use Google for more info.
 
I caution you on this, as it sounds like you may have an exhaust leak at the cylinder heads or similar. You should have very little or no closed throttle popping. If you like that, once you verify there is no leak, I am able to do this with the fuel map.
Thanks for the info! I will try and get this verified as soon as possible.
 
Hello,

I cant seem to find on this site any before and after dynos of the flash. Can anybody point me in the correct direction? I purchased the SAS kit and it worked as advertised so I am considering the map as well. I would just like to see some data beyond testimonials. V7 III Thanks in advance!
 
The only before-after dyno testing of the revised ECU map I did was with my butt and right wrist. My V7 III Racer was a pretty solid, normal performer for a "slightly over 50 hp" VTwin exactly as it came off the showroom floor. With the ECU map that Todd developed for me, it's a completely different story ... Loves to rev hard, pulls way over its rated specification, faster to start and warm up, easier to ride, more responsive everywhere.

To me, the difference is obvious—in the positive direction—and the lack of dyno charts isn't an issue. That said, I think Todd has some dyno stuff somewhere on the site, but I've not looked for it.
 
Please bear with me here! I want to make sure I understand. I have a 2016 V7 Stone. If I understand correctly, all I need to do is buy the ECU Flash box and hook it up to my bike, with you helping me out by email, correct. Does my V7II have an evap can?
 
Back
Top