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V85TT Evap and Tip Info

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First service done yesterday on the GTM V85TT, which included some exploratory investigation on the inner workings. Below is info on the evap and tip valve to eliminate the fuel tank pressurization and future running issues, like all other V7/V9s.
Tank removal is fairly easy. Under the key cover is two front bolts, and one in the rear, unplug the connectors/fuel lines, and off it comes. Info on the SAS Kit is HERE (which is also the same as the V7/V9s.)

1. Key cover, one bolt on each side, slide forward and lift.

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2. This exposes the two tank bolts (one shown missing below), and the grey/green valve is the infamously notorious tip-over valve:

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3. Fuel line and rear tank bolt arrowed:

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4. L to R, fuel pump connector, breather/overflow and fuel line disconnect. These all can be done prior to tank removal via easy access under the tank frame mount bracket shown.

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5. With the tank removed looking forward, the tip valve shown apart and gutted (use heat from a hair dryer or eq, and a small screwdriver to pop apart, then can be snapped back together), and red arrow is the evap can. You can snip and plug the line partially hidden (arrowed) line to resolve the intake leak.

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Thanks for the info but, What problems can happen If it stay as a factory ?
 
Hi Todd!

I was going to remove my tank tonight to facilitate installation of straps for a tank bag. I got everything disconnected except for the tip over valve. I tugged on it, but stopped when I saw no progress and figured I was going to break it. It looks as if you've split your valve in half? I didn't think of that. Is the valve then simply pressed back together?

I also considered breaking the clamp at the evap can and then putting it back together with a tie strap, but thought perhaps I should leave well enough alone.

My tank has the pressurization problem you mentioned. There's a distinct whoosh of air when the tank is opened. So, I should nip and plug the line you've mentioned above?

BTW, I got my straps installed simply by lifting the tank.

Thanks a lot! :)
 
I also considered breaking the clamp at the evap can and then putting it back together with a tie strap, but thought perhaps I should leave well enough alone.

This is basically what I did when removing the tank though the hose lifted off the evap can easily with a gentle pry from a screwdriver.
 
Thanks for the info but, What problems can happen If it stay as a factory ?
Annoying things.
Basically what happens is the tank does not vent properly which causes a fuel issue.
I had a California Black Eagle that would "run out of gas" until I opened the fuel cap.
Did the above fix & never had the problem again.
 
Annoying things.
Basically what happens is the tank does not vent properly which causes a fuel issue.
I had a California Black Eagle that would "run out of gas" until I opened the fuel cap.
Did the above fix & never had the problem again.

Ok, thanks.

I until now I don't feel nothing of that. Yes, it's correct that is there overpressure, in my bike this issue distorts remaining mileage.

I know that some people have asked to Piaggio about this overpressure, the answer of the brand is that isn't an issue.

But I'll keep that in mind, ;)
 
I know that some people have asked to Piaggio about this overpressure, the answer of the brand is that isn't an issue.
Incorrect... it's that they don't know how to resolve it with their constraints. There is decades of evidence as to why this is very bad for the fuel system and tank.
It looks as if you've split your valve in half? I didn't think of that. Is the valve then simply pressed back together?
Yes, well covered in this section. A little hair dryer heat and a small screwdriver to pop it apart, and snap it back together.
 
Incorrect... it's that they don't know how to resolve it with their constraints. There is decades of evidence as to why this is very bad for the fuel system and tank.

Ok, So I understand that cut the evap line signed by white arrow or disconnect it it's enough, yes ?. It doesn't necessary sealed of evap line cutted and evap can ?
 
After fitting a Mistral crossover I’m getting a lot of popping from the secondary air injection system. Do you have a kit to block this off? Is it the same as the V7?
 
After fitting a Mistral crossover I’m getting a lot of popping from the secondary air injection system. Do you have a kit to block this off? Is it the same as the V7?
Same as the V7/9 kit, but likely you’ll also need the fueling revised as well. Working on that.
 
A couple stupid questions:
What is the notorious tip over valve and why do I want to gut it?
Is there any reason not to remove the evap canister entirely?
 
Got the block off kit for the secondary air injection installed last weekend. The front bolt on the right cover is a bear to get to, due to the brake line coming off the ABS controller right in front of it. Got the evap canister taken care of as well.
Any progress on the fueling? Mine needs help at low rpm/throttle openings.
 
Disconnect the purge line? Is that correct?

Thanks!

IMG-20191004-201752146-1.jpg
 
Any progress on the fueling? Mine needs help at low rpm/throttle openings.
Still slow going. Dealing with a big Italian company awaiting the new style plug connector and the file driver for decoding.
 
Still slow going. Dealing with a big Italian company awaiting the new style plug connector and the file driver for decoding.
My bike seems to be running worse since I blocked off the secondary air injection. Is it possible the oxygen sensors are reading rich (causing it to run lean) because that extra air isn’t being introduced? Thinking of putting it back on until I can get a remap.
 
My bike seems to be running worse since I blocked off the secondary air injection. Is it possible the oxygen sensors are reading rich (causing it to run lean) because that extra air isn’t being introduced? Thinking of putting it back on until I can get a remap.
Very likely could be, yes.
 
I had a Norge that had two tanks with bulging issues, I'm assuming because of this tip over valve. I just picked up a v85tt yesterday and while looking over the bike I opened the fuel lid and WHOOSH, quite a bit of pressure. Would like to nip any issues in the bud. Is it enough to just disable the tip over valve or is blocking the vacuum line also needed?
 
I had a Norge that had two tanks with bulging issues, I'm assuming because of this tip over valve. I just picked up a v85tt yesterday and while looking over the bike I opened the fuel lid and WHOOSH, quite a bit of pressure. Would like to nip any issues in the bud. Is it enough to just disable the tip over valve or is blocking the vacuum line also needed?
You need to gut the tip valve, and plug the line off of the intake manifold. The rest of the system can stay in place.
 
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