Sump bolt stripped. Damn, blast and bugga.

[sir fred]

Needed to move the left hand exhaust out of the way to get access to the 2 bolts on the rear left hand side of the frame rails. All the oil pan bolts can be accessed in situ with a long T bar allen key once the oil cooler is out of the way. I dropped the sump first hoping I could squeeze it out by just removing the RH exhaust but it's not possible.

Does this mean the sump can not be removed? If so, with it disconnected from the engine, is there now access to retap the damaged thread?
I have found a 12 x 1.25 drain plug.

 

[John L]

Does this mean the sump can not be removed? If so, with it disconnected from the engine, is there now access to retap the damaged thread?
I have found a 12 x 1.25 drain plug.[/QUO

It can be dropped without removing the lower frame rails sir fred, you will have to move the oil cooler out of the way to get access to the front bolts but I don't think that will give you much more access to it than you have with it in place. I didn't look at retapping it in the frame because of leaving fragments in the sump. I've dropped it off to my mechanic to put an insert in it and hopefully I will get it back today. I'm just off to work so will get back to this this afternoon.

 

[sir fred]

Thanks for the reply!. It is great that it can be removed without loosening the engine.
I will be tackling this at my next oil change in the Spring up here.
Enjoy your riding season!...i think it's pretty much year round your way.

 

[John L]

Thanks for the reply!. It is great that it can be removed without loosening the engine.
I will be tackling this at my next oil change in the Spring up here.
Enjoy your riding season!...i think it's pretty much year round your way.

sir fred, I got it back today. The original bolt is a M10 x 1.5 so you will need to drill it out to take the M12 x 1.25 and there is not a lot of room to spare inside the sump behind the hole for the plug. My mechanic did mine on the bench and while re-tapping it for the insert the tap bottomed out behind the hole and put a small crack in the sump which had to be welded, it would be very difficult to do while still in the frame. The sump is quite thin in that spot and it only took a light touch to crack it.

 

[John L]

While cleaning the sump to put it back on I noticed that, because of the design, some oil (100cc) is trapped in the area behind the filter housing and the mesh filter and cannot be drained. I wonder if this is taken into account when Guzzi state the refill capacity. Maybe this along with oil left in the cooler and various galleries etc. around the engine is the reason so many get over filled when changing the oil. I used water to measure it as it was easier to clean up but it doesn't show up too well in the pic.

 

[DeadEye]

I left the left hand header attached because it was a good place to prop a length of timber against for extra support.

That bike leaning on a 2x2 makes me feel VERY uncomfortable.

 

[John L]

That bike leaning on a 2x2 makes me feel VERY uncomfortable.

It is also strapped to a roof beam, belts and braces

 

[Steve Harper]

I've had the dreaded sump plug issue and have sourced a new sump. Now, the new sump is a new part number and I'm wondering if anyone has heard if they have re engineered the sump to prevent this common occurrence. I would like to not have this issue come up again so am thinking of having a steel insert put in the new sump but if they have fixed the issue then I won't bother. Would be good to hear some opinions on this.

 

[John L]

I've had the dreaded sump plug issue and have sourced a new sump. Now, the new sump is a new part number and I'm wondering if anyone has heard if they have re engineered the sump to prevent this common occurrence. I would like to not have this issue come up again so am thinking of having a steel insert put in the new sump but if they have fixed the issue then I won't bother. Would be good to hear some opinions on this.

Can't you just put an insert in your sump?

 

[Steve Harper]

Can't you just put an insert in your sump?

That's my dilemma, do I trust the issue has been rectified with the new part or just put a new insert in the new sump to fix the issue for good?

 

[John L]

That's my dilemma, do I trust the issue has been rectified with the new part or just put a new insert in the new sump to fix the issue for good?

It should be just as good in your sump as the new one I would think. I've had no problems with mine since. I also drilled the head of the sump bolt so I can tie wire it in just for piece of mind, then I'm not tempted to give it a little bit extra just to make sure it's tight.

 

[Steve Harper]

Thanks for the feedback, John. Much appreciated.

 

[scottmastrocinque]

Drain plug tightening, 101.

1. Screw in plug by hand (you may use a tool but no wrench or socket) until the drain bolt seats and stops.

2. Put socket on small wrench, tighten bolt 3-5 mm more. (This is less than 1/16 of a full rotation).

3. STOP.

You are DONE. The plug will not move. It will not back out. It will not strip, ever.

Stop over tightening a bolt that does no function other than to hold oil in the pan. It, not holding a moving part or critical fastener.

 

[Steve Harper]

Drain plug tightening, 101.

1. Screw in plug by hand (you may use a tool but no wrench or socket) until the drain bolt seats and stops.

2. Put socket on small wrench, tighten bolt 3-5 mm more. (This is less than 1/16 of a full rotation).

3. STOP.

You are DONE. The plug will not move. It will not back out. It will not strip, ever.

Stop over tightening a bolt that does no function other than to hold oil in the pan. It, not holding a moving part or critical fastener.

Thanks for that. I think it was done on its second service, most likely by an apprentice

 

[John L]

Drain plug tightening, 101.

1. Screw in plug by hand (you may use a tool but no wrench or socket) until the drain bolt seats and stops.

2. Put socket on small wrench, tighten bolt 3-5 mm more. (This is less than 1/16 of a full rotation).

3. STOP.

You are DONE. The plug will not move. It will not back out. It will not strip, ever.

Stop over tightening a bolt that does no function other than to hold oil in the pan. It, not holding a moving part or critical fastener.

This is probably my second stripped thread in over 50 years of owning various bikes so I'm not in the habit of over tightening them, there have been at least half a dozen cases of them stripping that I have read about. It is a critical fastener in that it is holding 4 liters of oil just in front of the rear tyre, I'd rather be safe than sorry.

 

[scottmastrocinque]

I have never had a customer come in with an oil drain plug that let go and the oil came out of the bike, ever.

I have repaired a dozen+, twice over, stripped oil drain plugs.

You may formulate your own conclusions.

 

[John Symchik]

Is it wrong to address this with a fumoto or similiar drain valve. Put it in and then just throw the lever to get the oil out. No more holding your breath. To me something about the crush washer and maybe the material makes it hard to get a feel.

Last year I stripped the plug on my brand new S1000RR. Maybe 2k miles on it. I'm not ashamed to say I nearly cried. It was paper thin magnesium and I thought I'd put an aftermarket plug in with a magnet that can lift a car. It was coated with some blue schmoo that I think bound up. In any case crunch and it was toast. I put on a new pan. Was $160 plus a $30 tube of genuine gray sealer and a bunch of one time use bolts.

I sweat now every time I change oil and this thread is no better.

I think race tracks will let you on with quick drains if they're wired. Aircraft use a valve too. That ought to say something. I'm glad this thread calls out the proper size because I'm going to try it.

 

[John L]

Is it wrong to address this with a fumoto or similiar drain valve. Put it in and then just throw the lever to get the oil out. No more holding your breath. To me something about the crush washer and maybe the material makes it hard to get a feel.

Last year I stripped the plug on my brand new S1000RR. Maybe 2k miles on it. I'm not ashamed to say I nearly cried. It was paper thin magnesium and I thought I'd put an aftermarket plug in with a magnet that can lift a car. It was coated with some blue schmoo that I think bound up. In any case crunch and it was toast. I put on a new pan. Was $160 plus a $30 tube of genuine gray sealer and a bunch of one time use bolts.

I sweat now every time I change oil and this thread is no better.

I think race tracks will let you on with quick drains if they're wired. Aircraft use a valve too. That ought to say something. I'm glad this thread calls out the proper size because I'm going to try it.

I like that idea if there is enough clearance to fit one. Could use one the gearbox as well.