• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Removing Fuel Tank on V7

mnguzzi

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Jul 22, 2014
Messages
30
Location
Minnesota
Hi All,

This may seem like a very stupid question, but as part of winterizing my bike I filled it up with non-oxy/non ethanol gasoline and added stabil. As I am getting the ECU reflash done, I obviously need to remove the tank.

I am curious if the way the fuel lines are set up, I can still take the tank off without draining it.

Thoughts?
 
Yes, carefully read on a search the way to disconnect the fuel line. The fitting will allow a small amount to leak out (from the line side), but will not allow the tank to drain.
 
I have run into somewhat of a strange thing that maybe I am being too nitpicky about. After reinstalling the fuel tank on the V7 I noticed much more space from the left cylinder to the tank than on the right side. I tried to make sure that when sliding the tank forward over the rubber knobs that it was centered, but it seems a bit more than normal. Has anyone run into this? Is it just a matter of shifting it around? Have people found that a difference in spacing is normal? Am I crazy? Todd would probably agree with that... Right now the sparkplug wire barely touches the tank on the right hand side.
 
Perhaps the one cylinder being back farther than he other is making it appear off? Just make sure the tank is slid all the way forward, and isn't hanging up on a hose or wire underneath...should be ok... They can be a little tricky to get back on in exactly the right spot...
 
Mine was offcenter too. I adjusted it somewhat by adding washers underneath the rubber pucks.
I.e. the rubber bumpers, left or right, underneath the tank, by the frame. With the tank mounted you need a svelte arm to reach them.
 
My original tank had a spacer behind the right side rubber mount so the front looked central around the head stem.
With the V7 tank on the Bellagio, it is very easy to dislodge the rubbers when fitting it back on.
 
I may try that with the washers to refine the positioning of the tank. Thanks! I know it was off center when I got the bike but I couldn't remember just how much.
 
Friends...Glad I found this thread...I think I read here that the fiberglass tanks can warp. I noticed after doing some work on my bike that when I put the fuel tank back on my V7, it was cocked to the left about 1cm off center and the bolt at the rear wouldn't line up...the bold was looking for a hole about 1-2cm farther back from the original hole.

I am pretty sure I don't have anything hung up on a cable or something else.

I am thinking about drilling a hole behind the original hole for the bolt and instead of threading the steel, just put a nut on the end of it of the bolt. I think with a little less tension on the back it may line up better.

Do any of you have the any solutions you've tried? Thanks in advance for your insight!
 
Friends...Glad I found this thread...I think I read here that the fiberglass tanks can warp. I noticed after doing some work on my bike that when I put the fuel tank back on my V7, it was cocked to the left about 1cm off center and the bolt at the rear wouldn't line up...the bold was looking for a hole about 1-2cm farther back from the original hole.

I am pretty sure I don't have anything hung up on a cable or something else.

I am thinking about drilling a hole behind the original hole for the bolt and instead of threading the steel, just put a nut on the end of it of the bolt. I think with a little less tension on the back it may line up better.

Do any of you have the any solutions you've tried? Thanks in advance for your insight!


I can't say I'd recommend drilling more holes. For awhile I had to use a scissors jack to get the tank back on my 1100 Breva due to expansion. However, it now has settled and no force is needed for the tank to line up. If anything I'd look at putting the front rubber mounts on a diet.
 
I can't say I'd recommend drilling more holes. For awhile I had to use a scissors jack to get the tank back on my 1100 Breva due to expansion. However, it now has settled and no force is needed for the tank to line up. If anything I'd look at putting the front rubber mounts on a diet.
Probably a better idea to go after the mounts...thanks for the advice!
 
On my bike I ended up cutting some of the rubber, and also adding some rubber washers on the other side. Looks ok now.

Sometimes these bolts can back out. Loctite on these should help, although I haven't had this problem
 
I've ended up in the same boat as motofiala, not able to reseat the tank. I'm a bit reluctant to start shaving off the rubber washers to make it fit.

Any other advice on how to get the tank sitting back on the rubber correctly?
 
Last edited:
I've ended up in the same boat as motofiala, not able to reseat the tank. I'm a bit reluctant to start shaving off the rubber washers to make it fit.

Any other advice on how to get the tank sitting back on the rubber correctly?

See my post above. I use a scissors jack and block of wood to push the tank forward enough for the bolt to align.
 
See my post above. I use a scissors jack and block of wood to push the tank forward enough for the bolt to align.

Thanks John. Appreciate the speedy response. I'll give that a try.

I was feeling a little concerned that I wasn't positioning the tank correctly and those rubber washers weren't seated. It's hard to tell when trying to do this with the bike on it's side-stand.

Anyways...I give the jack a try. Cheers.
 
Back
Top