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GTM ECU V7 & V9 Flash Tool

So what’s the big panic *We* keep hearing about, if you have after market anything under the hood, that’s not @@@@ compliant ? Does it only apply to automobiles?
And I wasn’t referring to your shop as one who ensures state emission compliance!
All of those types of laws have been on the books for quite some time. They keep one up-ing them by adding new language and attaching production years. All 4-wheeled vehicles are emission tested, but shockingly still zero types of inspections (of any kind) on 2-wheelers as noted on previously. Sadly it seems that this gearhead state will fall by way of new electric vehicle sales only on the near horizon... but that won't keep all of the existing vehicles and custom builders off the road any time soon. As to gas prices, I shudder at the thought... Mad Max comes to mind. Hopefully I'll not live to see it.
I knew you weren't referring to my shop specifically, but my statement was a blanket one, that covers dealers can't touch them, but they can't say anything if they arrive and leave modified. Again, no types of "legal control" are in place once the bike rolls off the floor new.
 
hey there I’m looking to buy a v7 III, re-flash the ECU, delete the EVAP and replace SAS with block off kit. No plans to change mufflers yet, anyone do the same? Can you describe how your bike feels/sounds with the stock muffler?
 
hey there I’m looking to buy a v7 III, re-flash the ECU, delete the EVAP and replace SAS with block off kit. No plans to change mufflers yet, anyone do the same? Can you describe how your bike feels/sounds with the stock muffler?

Personally , I described the sound as “Sewing machine” like to my friends.
What you want from a bike is hugely personal, so what turns ones crank might not do it for another...
I really didn’t want to spend too much money on a bike I just bought, BUT !

I listened to quite a few pipes online, but when I heard these :

I had to have them.
In conjunction with the tune and SAS removal ( to get rid of the popping - although i was starting to like it) changed the character of the bike immensely !

Oh last the stock pipes are HUGE - IMHO... the difference between the originals and these was staggering SO much smaller !
 
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Personal , I described the sound as “Sewing machine” like to my friends.
What you want from a bike is hugely personal, so what turns ones crank might not do it for another...
I really didn’t want to spend too much money on a bike I just bought, BUT !

I listened to quite a few pipes online, but when I heard these :

I had to have them.
In conjunction with the tune and SAS removal ( to get rid of the popping - although i was starting to like it) changed the character of the bike immensely !


che bel suono! I may have to consider swapping one out myself!
 
Right now I have stock exhaust with a remap (for stock exhaust). The stock exhaust is very quiet, but I don't dislike the sound. My bike definitely runs better with the remap; it was not a night and day difference when I first tried it after the remap, but after a good long test ride I just kind of noticed at some point that my bike was running smooth as silk and that I really liked the way it was behaving now.

So, a subtle but definite improvement I would say. Mine is a 2014 V7 but I would imagine the benefits carry over to newer models too.

I'm kind of leaning towards the GTM GP Megs exhaust for my bike.
 
Right now I have stock exhaust with a remap (for stock exhaust). The stock exhaust is very quiet, but I don't dislike the sound. My bike definitely runs better with the remap; it was not a night and day difference when I first tried it after the remap, but after a good long test ride I just kind of noticed at some point that my bike was running smooth as silk and that I really liked the way it was behaving now.

So, a subtle but definite improvement I would say. Mine is a 2014 V7 but I would imagine the benefits carry over to newer models too.

I'm kind of leaning towards the GTM GP Megs exhaust for my bike.


yeah that sounds great. I love the OG Guzzi sound from my dads old bike (stock everything).

For starters, I’d like to remap and pull best performance out of the engine with the stock pipe then I’ll probably switch it if I feel like I want that extra umph. Cant wait!
 
Does it make a difference if I EVAP/SAS delete before loading the new map?

I’m sure it makes some difference, but the big change comes after getting it to flow better.

Both the evap and SAS are feeding / pulling air in/out of the system ( through the air box) adding more variables to the equation.
If you remove those variable you get a more predictable system .
At least that’s the way I think about it.

Don
Armchair Wrench
( I will be corrected if I’m off on my perspective. )
 
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Just got a new Stone S model and gonna keep my stock pipes for now. After my first service, I’m gonna get the ECU map and complete the evap delete. Looking forward to experiencing a but more consistency in the throttle. I’ve already noticed that low-rev jerkiness and sometimes the throttle takes a while to rev back down even after i’ve released the throttle.
 
Does it make a difference if I EVAP/SAS delete before loading the new map?
Yes, however the evap is the bigger equation as it's an intake leak. The SAS is post combustion, so not as big of a factor, though many reasons to delete it.
Just got a new Stone S model and gonna keep my stock pipes for now. After my first service, I’m gonna get the ECU map and complete the evap delete. Looking forward to experiencing a but more consistency in the throttle. I’ve already noticed that low-rev jerkiness and sometimes the throttle takes a while to rev back down even after i’ve released the throttle.
If you've read the reviews on the purchase page, you'll get a feel for what you're in for. ;)
 
...Looking forward to experiencing a but more consistency in the throttle. I’ve already noticed that low-rev jerkiness and sometimes the throttle takes a while to rev back down even after i’ve released the throttle.

You may want to check your throttle cable, there should not be any free play of more than 2 mm. Also, check and adjust the clutch cable. Recheck these again after about every 200 miles. They should not need any adjustment after the 2nd adjustment, until much more miles got put on.
 
You may want to check your throttle cable, there should not be any free play of more than 2 mm. Also, check and adjust the clutch cable. Recheck these again after about every 200 miles. They should not need any adjustment after the 2nd adjustment, until much more miles got put on.

Good point Subin! I'll make sure I check that out. Remember asking myself if that initial backlash before the throttle engages was too wide or not.
 
This is sort of a rhetorical question , but I’m thinking after having disconnected the battery to attach the charging pigtail I would need to run the Throttle Position command under the Diagnosis > My Bike tab in the Flash tool ?

Maybe it’s last summer memory, but throttle response dosnt seem to be the same as last season ?

Thanks,
Don
 
This is sort of a rhetorical question , but I’m thinking after having disconnected the battery to attach the charging pigtail I would need to run the Throttle Position command under the Diagnosis > My Bike tab in the Flash tool ? Maybe it’s last summer memory, but throttle response dosnt seem to be the same as last season ?
No, but I recommend it as often as you think of doing it, or at every service as a minimum.
 
Ok - Thanks - is it something dynamic that changes / it learns ?
Welcome, no, it's quite a dumb system. More to do with wire resistance based on a myriad of things like humidity perhaps. I'm only guessing, as I'm not an electrical engineer. ;)
 
Is it possible to connect and power the flash tool to the battery via the battery tender dongle that's installed on my bike in lieu of removing the side panel and connecting directly to the battery terminals?
 
So, I just uploaded a new map to my ’17 V7iii as well as the TPS reset. After my first ride I can tell a significant difference and I'm happy overall. There is one thing, though, that I wanted to see if anyone else has experienced. When going through 1st and 2nd the bike sort of bogs down as I'm opening the throttle. Is there something I can do to stop that?
 
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