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6000 mile service - gaps, plugs, a tip, thoughts etc.

I make gap at .028 and it's normal 10mm plug so 11-12ftlbs on torque, and it doesn't say anywhere for plug torque until back in 09 8V motor and that gives an 18ftlbs carried over from other manuals AND is wrong. Looked in Aprillia's books at 10mm plug, it said 11ftlbs

Just throwing it out there, because getting it wrong is a major PITA (not to say expense). NGK has a website here that says 9ft lbs for 10mm plugs into Alu heads, but there are lots of factors involved i'm sure and I'm not claiming any knowledge other that what's listed here

https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/spark-plug-installation

Having said that I've noticed that my plugs have a tendancy in the 1400 to work their way loose if not done tight enough
 
Strange you should mention that , I checked my valves at 10k and found 2 rather untight
plugs in the process , the sealing gaskets weren't even fully compressed . Peter
 
I can not see how a plug could loosen. They are held by the rubber spark plug boot of which can be rather difficult to remove from the spark plugs.
I use anti-seize on my plugs and just snug them up.
The last thing anybody wants are stripped threads.
Lubrication will lessen the torque specs.
 
I can not see how a plug could loosen. They are held by the rubber spark plug boot of which can be rather difficult to remove from the spark plugs.
I use anti-seize on my plugs and just snug them up.
The last thing anybody wants are stripped threads.
Lubrication will lessen the torque specs.

I always assumed it loosened due to thermal expansion and contraction cycles. The heads run hot and the plug/head metals are different. I'm not talking "wobbly" loose, just that 1 plug in particular always needed to be snugged up a smidge whenever I took the covers off. I also put anti-seize on the threads (again just a smidge) and as you know, the friction is part of the torque measurement so removing that friction could easily lead to striped threads (been there, done that, but not on a plug thankfully)
 
Strange you should mention that , I checked my valves at 10k and found 2 rather untight
plugs in the process , the sealing gaskets weren't even fully compressed . Peter

I find compressing the plug gaskets the most scary bit about basic home bike maintenance, especially these tiny 1400 ones. I've spoken to other friends about this and they all agree. You start off by screwing the plug in by hand with an extension bar, then you hit the obvious point where the gaskets contact the head and the torque abruptly increases as they begin to deform and you switch to a wrench. As you continue to torque, It feels like you've gone past the point of snug, to the point where threads are being stripped. Of course you push through the "dry mouth" and "palpitations" phase until you eventually reach the firm and definate point to stop. I guess your previous bike's owner might have bottled out before that point. I know I have in the past. One particular car comes to mind when I think about this.
 
^ I'm the original owner . And I know your concerns with these 10mm thread plugs , however I've run Z9Y plugs in my twin plugged
Le Mans 2 for about 1/4 century and never any problems . It really would take considerable torque to break or strip those OEM
1400 plugs . If you get a chance , look up or better yet ask to see one (Z9Y) at an auto parts store (Lordco).
Oh yeah , should've mentioned, it had it's first valve check at it's first (and last) service at the dealership . Did they actually check them,
your guess is as good as mine .
 
^ I'm the original owner . And I know your concerns with these 10mm thread plugs , however I've run Z9Y plugs in my twin plugged
Le Mans 2 for about 1/4 century and never any problems . It really would take considerable torque to break or strip those OEM
1400 plugs . If you get a chance , look up or better yet ask to see one (Z9Y) at an auto parts store (Lordco).
Oh yeah , should've mentioned, it had it's first valve check at it's first (and last) service at the dealership . Did they actually check them,
your guess is as good as mine .

I'm guessing they didn't if they didn't compress the gasket, as you know you really have to remove at least 1 plug each side to overcome cylinder compression and set the valves. I could be generous and say they did and fitted new plugs at the same time - but we'll never know
 
I make gap at .028 and it's normal 10mm plug so 11-12ftlbs on torque, and it doesn't say anywhere for plug torque until back in 09 8V motor and that gives an 18ftlbs carried over from other manuals AND is wrong. Looked in Aprillia's books at 10mm plug, it said 11ftlbs

Thanks Steve for your input on gaping the plugs. With regards to torque specs I've gotten all kinds of feedback regarding why would you torque a plug. I for the most part never have on a Motorcycle, Car or whatever else. However I also own a BMW K1600 GTL Exclusive ad I have and will always do my own work on my bikes. The Germans are notorious for specific and going by torque specs for their bikes. My take is that if the engineers that design these things have developed torque specs then there's a reason for it and I'll take the time when i work on my bikes to follow the spec's for tightening.

Thanks

Gerry
 
I went through all that BMW training in 88, hence using a T wrench. I played w/it and came up w/11-12 cause they loosen up at 9. Long study from 09- 15. I really don't care what others do, just me for my customers. I like using a torque wrench, thanks.
 
Hi all, I have finally pulled the trigger and done my own valve check, after the dealer repeatedly said that as long as the are no strange noises and the engine runs fine, no check is required. I discovered during the check that my 2016 Eldorado has iridium NGK LMAR 9Ai-8 plugs. Apparently they are out of production, but the gap was spot on at 8mm, and since they advise replacing at 100000k miles, I put anti grease paste on all of them and put them back, and torqued them as instructed.
My 2016 Eldorado has about 16000k on the clock and is ridden regularly in QATAR, even in the summer, at 45 Celsius so I am impressed the spark plugs were spot on, but I guess Iridium is as good as they say. I will attach a picture.
The valves. Mine does not have the EURO4 electronic gizmos, so I guess that is the reason I could use the alternator pulley nut to crank the engine, so it was quite easy. On an exhaust valve (RH cyl head) and an intake valve (LH )he gauge needed a bit of pushing to enter but other than that, they were all in the limits, again impressive, considering that most likely they have never been adjusted in 16000km( past the first adjustment by 6000km).
This is the first time I am doing this and all the info I took from the forum, so a big thanks to everybody.
I have to questions though:
1: if the valve checking gauge needs a bit of convincing to get in, is that considered within limits?
2: as I will show in a picture, the exhaust valve springs have a brown, rust like color on one side. It is the same in the service manual, but what is it?
Thanks alot.
 

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Ah and the torque setting from NGK was 7.2-8.7 LbFt. On both cylinders, the inner spark plugs came of very easy, compared to the outer ones who were tighter.
 
There's always a layer of oil between rocker arm and valve which makes it feel tight wedging the feeler gauge in there for the first time, so yes, they may need to coaxed apart the first time (IMHO).

I work on the basis that the gap is correct when there is just enough friction to hold the feeler gauge in place to stop it sliding out under gravity, no more/no less. You should also be able to slide the gauge smoothly around without any kind of sticking or bending of it. I also have the orange marks on the springs and I don't know what they are for either.
 
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Thanks, I may check them again latter, as I did not have the ''drift dampers" the 4 rubber washers on which the screws holdin the ornament cover sit. So , ordering those then, on installing I might do it again.
 
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