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Front Wheel Shenanigans

TurcoLoco

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Jan 19, 2019
Messages
35
Location
Kalifornia
Hello all,

I was not too crazy about spoke wheels and due to salty air, the disc bolts got corroded (along with other bits and parts on the bike), and appeared to be seized. All but one stripped when I was trying to take them off.

Using an extractor bit, I was able to get the rest but one wanted to be pain and didn't give in.
I had to drill that one out. Afterwards, during the rethreading the tap bit broke (thank you Harbor af-Freight-to-use Tools!), anyhow. The tap bit is broken and stuck about half inch down in the newly threaded hole, not sure what to do? Am I SOL?

As a side questions, spoked front wheel started to leak badly too so I was thinking about replacing the spoke wheels on my Stelvio for cast wheels, what make/model wheels can I use if another MG cast wheels wouldn't be compatible?

If I can get the wheel sorted out, I was thinking about using Polyurethane sealant for the rims. Any thoughts on that?
 
Take the wheel to a machine shop. They will need to use a carbide tip to remove the broken tap. Now you have learned to not use cheap tools. Also when cutting threads, use plenty of oil to lube the tap. Also if you had heated the bolts before removing they all probably would have come out quite easily. The thread locker used at the factory is pretty stout and the heat from a propane torch causes it to release.
 
Take the wheel to a machine shop. They will need to use a carbide tip to remove the broken tap. Now you have learned to not use cheap tools. Also when cutting threads, use plenty of oil to lube the tap. Also if you had heated the bolts before removing they all probably would have come out quite easily. The thread locker used at the factory is pretty stout and the heat from a propane torch causes it to release.

Just a gentle bit of heating ?
Hair drier / paint stripper
OR gas ?
 
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Just a gentle bit of heating ?
Hair drier / paint stripper
OR gas ?

I said propane torch. The blue part of the flame to heat the bolt.

propane-torch-10368389.jpg
 
I replaced my spoke wheels on my Stelvio, with cast wheels when I decided that replacing 80 individual spoke o-rings was not my idea of fun.

I bought them from Todd ( GTM) right here. They came with bearings already installed. I just added the Moto Guzzi graphic from a set of V7 Racer wheels, then I used new bolts and moved my rotors from the spokes to the cast wheels. They also come in black too.

https://gtmotocycles.com/products/oem-stelvio-cast-wheels?_pos=1&_sid=dde6e5c25&_ss=r

Insanely happy ever since. So much easier to take care of and keep clean.

Spokes suck!

9295F066 2043 4584 9CDD FEBC36002E01 D50E7700 72BF 46F8 B720 30EE4991CD07 22F6D18C 3166 442C 9A82 605EF79DA519 81D6F5DD 12B9 4FCE B3A1 518D79D62D19


Also, this exact topic has been hashed out before. (SEARCH is your best friend here in the Forums. Not much on a Stelvio that hasn’t already been gone over before)

John uses a torch, I used a 5 pound sledge.

Both methods work very good.

https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/help-needed-with-very-tight-brake-bolts.20517/#post-161855
 
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I sealed the spoked wheels on my Stelvio, using the 3M tape, about 5 years ago, multiple tyre changes since and they still hold air.
 
I sealed the spoked wheels on my Stelvio, using the 3M tape, about 5 years ago, multiple tyre changes since and they still hold air.

What 3m tape are you speaking about because I cannot find a 3m product for rim tape. I hope you don’t mean just ordinary duct tape.
 
The first one came off normal so I continued on to the rest. When the next bolt seemed to start slipping, I applied PBBlaster to all bolts and waited like 30-40 minutes. Then cleaned the tips with Simple Green and went at it again but each bolt stripped so easily I couldn't believe it!
I did know about the lil heat trick but the holes being that close to the bearing (rubber), I wasn't too sure about using heat. Also at that point they were already rounded anyway.

I pulled out my Irwin extractor set and was able to extract all but one. That last one was a #%@$!

As John mentioned, I searched for local machine shops with a tap burner and ended up finding a shop with nothing but good reviews.
I was told the cost would be around $80-$120, not sure if that is reasonable or not but if the guy is as good as the reviews and the photos posted on Google, it'd be worth it.

Scott, those wheels are sick! If I had that kind of $$, I'd not even think twice!
Back to reality, I am broke-ish so I have to get the wheels fixed and for the leaking front wheel, a lot of people seem to be using a silicone based sealant but based on some comments and further research, using a polyurethane based sealant made more sense and hard to beat the cost:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NW5LWHA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also found the sealing tape from Outex but costs like $120. Also, more cumbersome task than simply smearing a sealant like the one I am getting.

I spent an hour or so cleaning the front wheel with first Simple Green then CLR and wire brush to get as much of the corrosion and rust as possible, Then wiped with shop towel and painted them with black rust-oleum rust inhibiting paint. They came out fairly decent. I had already done the back wheel so I will not have to worry about salty air corrosion, rust, etc. I just have to wash and clean the grease/dirt once in a while and I am good.

That said, I do admit, that wheel set Scott shared got me thinking! Not a bad deal for $600!
After fixing my wheel and resealing it, I might actually consider selling my current wheels to cover part of the cost for the new set! Hmm....

Thank you all for the feedback, much obliged!
 
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3M4412 tape is what I used, a 2mm thick foam tape with a, really sticky, glue on the back. Some people seal the end of the spoke with silicone before applying the tape but I didn't find it necessary. Think I paid about £30 for enough to seal 4/5 wheels from a commercial supplier.
 
Shop stated the actual bolt somehow got pushed at an angle and into the aluminum wheel so it is no longer possible to just extract and plug it. He said he would have to enlarge it in the other direction as well then be able to align and plug the hole. Of course the bill doubled.
I decided to think on it a bit but more than likely not going to get it done. To me, 1 out of 6 is not really a functional fix but more of a cosmetic one and just not worth spending around $200 when a new wheel cost only $100+ more.

It will have to do with just 5 bolts for now which should be good enough. :(
 
Shop stated the actual bolt somehow got pushed at an angle and into the aluminum wheel so it is no longer possible to just extract and plug it. He said he would have to enlarge it in the other direction as well then be able to align and plug the hole. Of course the bill doubled.
I decided to think on it a bit but more than likely not going to get it done. To me, 1 out of 6 is not really a functional fix but more of a cosmetic one and just not worth spending around $200 when a new wheel cost only $100+ more.

It will have to do with just 5 bolts for now which should be good enough. :(


There are 6 bolts for a reason. Either fix your wheel, or spring for the new one. Brakes are a necessary item.
 
There are 6 bolts for a reason. Either fix your wheel, or spring for the new one. Brakes are a necessary item.
Symmetrically positioned, I'd think even 4 would work. Naturally not as ideal or strong as having all 6 but I seriously doubt the engineers would use barely adequate number of bolts, especially for such a vital component, am I wrong? I'd be shocked to see 5 couldn't do the job but not trying to be argumentative or difficult. I am not the type to take a chance on such things anyway.

That said, earlier today, I actually found another shop that will be using EDM equipment out and then plug it for much less than the other place. This shop was referred to me by a MG shop owner I know in Long Beach so I am confident they will do a good job. Still, I will bring a rotor with me to make sure the job was done right.
 
The shop I found was really good with beyond reasonable pricing! He charged $45 total which included removal of all the broken bits (using EDM equipment) and then inserting an oversize plug due to enlarged/elongated hole (my handy work).

Then, as planned before, I replaced all the bolts even the OK ones that came off from the other wise with SS Allen bolts.
I also used Sikaflex 221 polyurethane sealant for the sporadic little leak that was causing 4-6 PSI per week.

All fixed up and good to go, very happy with the outcome!
 

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