• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

1200S engine swap

KRHguzi

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
May 2, 2009
Messages
39
Location
Dutch Harbor, Tucson, Lake Charles LA
The engine failed on my 08 1200S due to a oil pump failure so I am faced with choice ofspending too much money having it rebuilt or swapping it for a running engine. Is it possible to install a 8V engine and transmission into a 4V chassis? Has anyone done performed that swap and what mods were required?
 
Last edited:
In theory, it should be a simple swap, as the cases and transmission should be identical. I can't think of a single reason it wouldn't swap. YMMV.
 
I have it on record from the gurus, that this will work. The only difference is the exhaust/oil cooler location if the donor unit comes from a GRiSO. No big issues either way.
 
Damaged 1200S coming up for auction early Dec at Manheim in Brisbane.
Headlight/ instruments/right side peg and levers gone. Right side tappet cover damage.
 
SAM 2766 SAM 2765 I am using the engine and drive train from a wrecked 2013 Griso along with the engine mangement sytem. The quickest and easiest way to do that was to use the electrical sytem from the from the Griso. The connectors for the lighting and signals is different but that is a far simpler adaptation than the fuel injection and computer.
A few photos of the progress so far.
The Griso exhaust and oil cooler will be used along with the Griso insturment panel.
 
Nice work. Be sure to check front end travel. It is hard to tell from the picture above, but it looks like the RH pipe will be close to the fender when the forks compress.
 
I know they have different frames, but is the geometry that much different between the two? Otherwise, custom exhaust.
 
Looks like you are making good progress, hope it goes well.

I thought oil pump failures were supposed to be restricted to early 2v Norges? Am now starting to get nervous with my 07 Sport.....

What actually happened? Did you get any warning signs?
 
My 07 Sport oil pump failed , I was motoring when it happened ...needed new crank and conrods.....I managed to get a norge 1200 short engine as I had all sorts of messing around with MG not suppyling parts.
Some pumps crack the outer rotor .....mine wore the drive flats off the inner rotor......one second it was working ...next second not :-(
 
Last edited:
The exhaust is mounted too low at the muffler. On a Griso the muffler mount on the passenger pegs is apx a 1/1/2 " higher which will tilt the pipes out of the way at the front wheel. New pipe and muffler are on the way which will cure the wheel interference .

The latest plan is to move the oil cooler and use the exhaust from the 1200 sport.
 
Last edited:
So what is the general consensus out there? Keep running the 2v 1200 Sport and wait for an issue or change the oil pump now? Is there an upgraded pump that does not suffer from the cracking problem?
 
@JAS .....when I rebuilt mine I got a new pump of course but there was no difference between old and new that I could measure.
My advice is check your pump ...you need special socket (deep socket with od turned down) for end of crank nut and a puller for the multi vee belt pulley.
when refitting sprockets leave out the oil pump key (it is tiny and easy to lose) until the others are fitted then rotate oil pump spindle to aline drive keyways.

Don't wait for it to really spoil your day
PM me if you want the back ground story ...don't want to hijack the thread
 
Oh, there was a difference, the faulty one was round where the shaft went into the rotor. :D

JAS, the only way to check is to pull the pump and look for yourself. On the my Norge the outer rotor was in 4 pieces. On Android's the inner rotor was freewheeling on the shaft. Don't know what the fault on the OPs pump was.

In my case, the replacement pump had a very tight fit between the shaft and inner rotor, the old one was quite loose.
 
Android / Brian, thanks for the feedback. 300 Euro / 6-8 week wait for the pump, having to remove the pulleys and timing chain to replace it, not looking forward to that job! I'll PM you Android for the low down.
 
€300 sounds right, it cost over £200 in the UK a few years back. But I got mine supplied from Italy within the week. Ordered by the dealer Monday, had it in my hand Friday.
 
This thread is not making me feel good. Excuse me for sounding dumb here but should I now worry about an oil pump failure with no warning? No Warning! I love my 08 Sport 2 valve and had hoped to run it well into my Golden Senior Years. Well maybe not Golden, at least until I start falling down a lot. Seriously, is this cause for concern? What can I do to prevent a failure? About 43,000 miles on mine so far. Regular maintenance stuff, nothing major. Guzzi Guru's make me feel the love.
 
This thread is not making me feel good. Excuse me for sounding dumb here but should I now worry about an oil pump failure with no warning? No Warning! I love my 08 Sport 2 valve and had hoped to run it well into my Golden Senior Years. Well maybe not Golden, at least until I start falling down a lot. Seriously, is this cause for concern? What can I do to prevent a failure? About 43,000 miles on mine so far. Regular maintenance stuff, nothing major. Guzzi Guru's make me feel the love.


It is like this. The oil pump is a mechanical part. Mechanical parts can fail. Can the failure of the oil pump be predicted, probably not. You have 43 K on your bike now. If it were to fail because of a manufacturing defect, it would probably have failed by now. I'd say ride it and inspect the pump when it is time to replace the timing chain. Probably at around 90 to 100K miles or so.
 
I would say as John, don't worry about it, but equally never ignore the oil pressure warning light if it comes on when the engine is running. It might be a faulty switch, but it might not.
 
Back
Top