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Advise on critical maintenance needed

Kuzya

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
65
Guys, not having a trustful dealer around, I'm servicing my 12S on my own so far. Having the Guzziology and this forum, still have a mess in my head on a proper amount of maintenance. What works would you recommend to perform as a must please?
Bike is a 2008 1200 Sport 2V
20 000 km
Regular oil/brake/clutch fluid serviced
Inner spark plugs changed
Valve clearance check every 5k

There is a chance that fork oil has been changed some 10k km ago, but unsure
Dark garage parked - low UV environment.

Plan to:
TPS reset, TB balance
Gearbox and CARC oil change

Do you think I'd should change:

Fork oil?
Fuel hoses?
Brake hoses?U

Grease rear arm bearings?
Fork main bearing?

Something else important to check on a 7 YO guzzi?
Thanks!
Alex
 
Fork oil Yes
Fuel hoses, probably not
Brake hoses No
Grease swing arm bearing if not already done, Yes
Fork Bearings, maybe replace with tapered rollers, but the original bearing I believe are sealed ball bearings.
 
Just replaced the swing arm bearings and all the rear suspension bearings on mine at 33,000 miles (53,000 km)
so a clean and regrease = really good idea
 
Is there a way to make a "soft" fork oil change, draining oil while leaving the fork mounted? If not a clever idea, than another question: the service manuals for 12S show fork oil change procedure, but seems to be another fork. Pictures are not showing the top-placed compression/rebound setting screws and their connection to fork valves. What would be the really correct oil fork change procedure for my fork?
Fork seems to be Marzocchi, black tubes, compression/rebound setting screws present.
Thanks!
 
Last edited:
To change the fork oil, they must be removed. Not that difficult. As far as I know, the procedure is the same.
 
The only real/complete way is to remove them, flip them over and pump them out.
Not sure how well this would work, but if you pull the calipers, wheel and the very bottom bolts that secure the cartridges, loosen the top triple pinch bolts, then the fork caps (and at that point you're most of the way there on just removing them), then push/pump the forks sliders up and down. It just might work (in theory). It will be a very slow process as it has to push past the bottom of the cartridges. Measure the drain if you do. It should be ~440ml. If you don't get near that, you'll have to pull the forks.
I can't recall if there was a supplement to the Breva/Norge manual.
 
Thanks, Todd. Better dismount. But still the question is: how to change oil on this cartridge fork with minimum required disassembling. simple opening the top cap - unclear how to handle the compression/rebound setting screws...
 
It's been too many years to recall, but if the caps don't easily spin off, spin the fork tubes off the caps. And pump/empty out. It's pretty simple to do from memory.
 
What made me curious here, to bother you with such a question, is: there must be a connection from screws for setiing rebound/compression damping to the cartridge. The screws sit in the cap. Simple cap dismount, without prior disconnection of the above mentioned connection should be likely to break something.
Unless the adjustment screws are a pure pushing action ones, without binding to the cartridge.
Is it a pushing action effect, or rotational one, for comp/rebound adjustments?
 
From memory, the caps are threaded to the top of the cartridges, so if it feels tight once you crack it loose, then spin the fork tubes off of the caps.
 
Thanks, Todd!
If i discover more details - will post here. There are people around looking for same answers, but no definite parts-based infos to be found so far.
 
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