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need help

W

wait2b

Just got it firing!
GT Contributor
Joined
May 28, 2014
Messages
14
Location
Edmonton, Alberta
need help
was riding the 2012 stelvio ntx on the weekend stopped to check light and tried to restate but
what occurred was a click noise. Removed battery and check some of wiring did not find
anything that appeared as a problem reinstalled battery tried restarting, click again. Removed
battery cables and cleaned as best I could and reinstalled cables, still click on restart. Checked
posts again clean a little, tried restate and started. Got on the road to get back to the house bike
ran terrible, missing and using fuel at a level of 9 liters per 100k. The bike finally would not
continue running and stopped, before that the mileage speed on dash showed "0" and no other
functions indicated. Tried to restart and click again, would not restate al all. One item that I
noticed upon checking some of the other wiring was that on the power commander fueling system
two of the wires had come loose and were not connected which I think caused the fueling issue?
Had a two truck take the bike to the house and tried to restart but click again. Put the charger
on the battery and let it charge and reconnected the two wires on the power commander. Tried
to start the bike about an hour later and it started but idled at 2,000 rpm, turned off and restarted
and it idled at 1,400 which was still too high, connected charger while bike was running and the
idle was at 1,100?

This is the second time that this occurred, once last year
after which I removed battery had it load tested which was accepted and reinstalled batter and
bike ran good for that whole year.
Need advise, is the battery a piece of crap or is there an issue with the alternator, voltage regulator
or something else?
additional:
charged the battery to 13A, tightened the alternator belt and started the bike to take
take a reading of the amount of charge coming for the alternator reading was 12.42
which is too low should be about 14.5. What could be causing the lack of charging amps
is the alternator or something else??


Thanks
 
Last edited:
Be careful not to over tighten the belt. You should be able to twist it about 90 degrees at the mid point. You may have a bad battery, but I've experienced the no start issue from the battery connections failing. Over time it seems some batteries form a compound on the connections that is high resistance. Thorough cleaning of the battery posts and connections corrected the problem. However, yours sounds more like a weak battery. If you still have low charging voltage measured at the battery after trying another battery then the alternator may be subject, but alternators usually work or they don't at all. BTW, you are observing system volts, not amps. You need to have an amp meter in line with the alternator output to measure amps.
 
I had starting problems with my Griso a few months ago. The battery was not that old so I cleaned the terminals. I still wasn't satisfied with the cranking speed. I took it to a reputable battery firm and had the battery load tested. They said the battery tested fine but I put in a new battery anyway. The Griso works great now.

Every so often I recall something that I learned in my High School Chemistry class. Testing equipment needs to be calibrated every so often and the equipment that some people use may not be accurate enough for the job even when working properly.
 
Not to sound like a broken record (for the youngens our there that have never seen a record, it means repeating over and over and over......sorry, couldn't help it.......)
Just to make sure, if your headlights are not working when the bike is running, check the 30 amp fuse that is spoken about at nausea on the forum.
You fueling issues are probably due to the PC wires and a red herring at this point. I don't have one on my bike so can't comment on it.
Would not think a weak battery would cause those fueling issues you are explaining.
Have not heard of too many alternators going on the 2012's (I think one that I have heard of and that was suspect). It is basically a car alternator and pretty robust. That being said weird things can happen. Assuming the 30amp fuse checks out, you may have tightened the belt too much. 12.4 running is like running with a partial alternator. Also, check the main ground wire where it connects around the starter and the one for the starter. This has known to come loose. Although it may not be the cause of the low voltage (unless it was really loose), it would be the cause for the no start.
All this being said may still be your battery, but even if the battery was gone, you should still be reading the alternator voltage at the battery assuming you can get it started. Don't rely on the dash display for this. Read it directly from the battery.
 
john zibell said:
Be careful not to over tighten the belt. You should be able to twist it about 90 degrees at the mid point. You may have a bad battery, but I've experienced the no start issue from the battery connections failing. Over time it seems some batteries form a compound on the connections that is high resistance. Thorough cleaning of the battery posts and connections corrected the problem. However, yours sounds more like a weak battery. If you still have low charging voltage measured at the battery after trying another battery then the alternator may be subject, but alternators usually work or they don't at all. BTW, you are observing system volts, not amps. You need to have an amp meter in line with the alternator output to measure amps.
Click to expand...
thanks
 
canuck1969 said:
Not to sound like a broken record (for the youngens our there that have never seen a record, it means repeating over and over and over......sorry, couldn't help it.......)
Just to make sure, if your headlights are not working when the bike is running, check the 30 amp fuse that is spoken about at nausea on the forum.
You fueling issues are probably due to the PC wires and a red herring at this point. I don't have one on my bike so can't comment on it.
Would not think a weak battery would cause those fueling issues you are explaining.
Have not heard of too many alternators going on the 2012's (I think one that I have heard of and that was suspect). It is basically a car alternator and pretty robust. That being said weird things can happen. Assuming the 30amp fuse checks out, you may have tightened the belt too much. 12.4 running is like running with a partial alternator. Also, check the main ground wire where it connects around the starter and the one for the starter. This has known to come loose. Although it may not be the cause of the low voltage (unless it was really loose), it would be the cause for the no start.
All this being said may still be your battery, but even if the battery was gone, you should still be reading the alternator voltage at the battery assuming you can get it started. Don't rely on the dash display for this. Read it directly from the battery.
Click to expand...
thanks, will check the starter connections and see if that resolves the issue. Have just bought a new battery.
 
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