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2007 breva 1100 fuel filter

jturquette

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Aug 28, 2014
Messages
37
Location
Houston, TX
So, I tackled the fuel filter on my breva last weekend. Glad I did. It only had 13,500 miles on it, but with the ethanol in our fuel here is the states, I did not want to assume all is well. Before starting this project, I spoke the techs over at MPH in Houston (they are 1 mile from my work). Got some good advice. Here is fuel pump assembly after I removed the unit from the fuel tank. I'm guessing this is the OEM filter.
TIPS
Run motor with fuel pump unplugged to drain pressure from fuel line.
High pressure fuel delivery line is tricky to remove. You need to push the line towards red nozzle, and then pinch/compress the connector and the line will slide off the fuel pump nozzle. (There is a YouTube video that shows this).
Hose clamps can be reused, but you need to slowly open then by wiggling a small screwdriver into the clamping mechanism. It is a VERY tight fit. Pic attached of clamp.
Go slow and be careful. If you break the delivery nozzle (the red nozzle) you get the privelige of buying a whole new assembly. Image
 

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Hi Jt well done for getting it sorted
You can get just the plastic elbow from Gutsibits for. £25
Also on ebay you can get fuel line pliers to help with the quick release fitting, a set of three one pair I threw away as not needed and the other two I combined to give me the best fit, for £7 not bad.
 
Hi Jt well done for getting it sorted
You can get just the plastic elbow from Gutsibits for. £25
Also on ebay you can get fuel line pliers to help with the quick release fitting, a set of three one pair I threw away as not needed and the other two I combined to give me the best fit, for £7 not bad.
So the little elbow IS replaceable?!? That is good info to have. I do not plan on needing one, but it's good to know I have options. Once i figured out the trick for the fuel line, that was easy. I found it more difficult to fiddle with the hose clamps on the filter itself.
Good to hear from you.
 
Most definitely! The guys at MPH in Houston steered me in the right direction there. I figure I was on borrowed time with that filter. About 8 years!!! I'm glad it's done and now, I'm a little bit wiser.
 
I just changed the fuel filter on my 2012 Norge. The local Guzzi dealers had none in stock, but the BMW dealer had 40! The BMW part number is : 16-14-2-325-859. It is EXACTLY the same filter as the Guzzi.
After re- assembling the unit, I find I have an issue with my fuel gauge. I think the float is the issue, but thought I would ask for advice before taking it apart again. Any ideas out there?
 
The sending unit may self correct. Try a fill up and go a few miles. If it doesn't it is now an available replacement part.
 
I drained the tank, opened up the fuel pump assembly to see anything was binding. When I re-filled the tank, the fuel gauge started working. When I put more fuel in, the gauge fell back to empty. I am hoping it will bounce around and re-set itself.
 
I just came back from a trip to West Virginia, putting on about 2,500 kms. Over the course of the trip, on about 5 or 6 occasions, the fuel gauge would give me a reading, after starting up. It was usually indicating less fuel than was in the tank, and would fall to empty a few minutes later. I am thinking that the float is working, but its not sending the correct resistance reading to the gauge.

Any ideas?
 
I had similar issues with my Breva level gauge as it would never read full, I bought a new one from Todd as its a pain to keep taking it in and out and all ok now. I took the old one apart to see how it worked, I got 12 ohms when full and 350 ohms empty, after "fiddling " around with it, it seems to be ok now, Oh well I have a spare.
Kevin
 
Thank you for your reply - very encouraging. Could you please define that "technical" term you used: fiddlling? I am very interested to know just what you did to get the correct resistance.

Cheers
Walter
 
Hi Walter, what I did was to unclip the end with the cap by pressing in the 3 little lugs one at a time (gently) and lifting it off. I then removed all the pieces inside (float and springs) very carefully taking a note of the way everything was orientated. The float has a very light metal strip attached to it that touches the resistive element. I cleaned the contact points with isopropanol alcohol, put it back together and it worked. I expected to see a broken/crack in the element but it was fine. The new unit was relatively cheap and I ordered it before I took the faulty one out. I just swapped them over as I didn't want the bike off the road also I reckon you have to be a gynaecologist to get that fuel unit in and out.
Kevin
 
Thanks for your advice Kevin. I will get into in after the weekend.

Regards
Walter
 
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