• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Help! 1200 sport won't start and had to walk home.

swortsoul

Just got it firing!
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
6
I'm going to go back and jump it from my car when my girlfriend gets home, but want to be sure I'm not missing anything stupid.

I rode home from work and stopped at the store. Got my stuff, then the bike wouldn't start when leaving. Engine kill switch is in running position. Light comes on. Gauges sweep. I think I hear the fuel pump. Hit the starter, and don't really get anything. Maybe a light click, but not much.

I checked the fuses. Bike was in neutral and I put the side stand up, and down a few times in case the switch was sticking.

The battery reads 11.8V with the ignition on. I think that's low for starting, right?

So will a jump get me home?

Appreciate any quick responses, or any at all really.

Thanks
Tim

PS I really just think it's mad at me selling the V11 yesterday...
 
Search "no start" on the main Forum. First, 11.8 is very low (the ECU won't let the starter spin if it "sees" below 10.7 during the start cycle)... secondly, check both ends of both positive and negative battery cables for corrosion (clean if found) and be sure they are tight, and lastly, the 12S is known problematic for needing a relay bypass; https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/modern-no-start-issue-solution.4908/ - could be other things, but that's where you should start. If all is clean and tight, start with the battery. If the jump does it, replace the battery.
 
Thanks. Didn't see too much corrosion on the terminal. I have had issues with that in the past. I just hope the jump gets me home. I can figure it out from there much easier...
 
So just back with the bike. Terminals weren't bad. Put key in, hit start button, and it fired up. No jump needed. I'll have to read through that thread you posted. I just skimmed it so far while waiting.

Back home now and it reads 12.0V when I shut it down. It read 13.0 -13.2 on the while running.

I'm also heading over to Moto International tomorrow, so I'll ask the guys what they think as well. They'll probably just laugh knowing that I sold the other bike yesterday.

Thanks again for the response.
 
The gauge built into the dash reads quite a bit low. Do not use it for troubleshooting information.

There is no substitute for reading voltage at the battery with a handheld meter.

If you haven't done the relay bypass yet, just do it. There is no need to buy a kit, there are instructions around somewhere that will cost you only a bit of time, a piece of wire and some connectors.
 
Do the bypass!! I kept thinking about doing miner, but after the eleventieth time it failed to turn over, I got it bypassed. Not a single issue since.
 
Well, in the interest of keeping similar problems on the same thread, perhaps you can give me some advice. Breva 1100 with the MPH bypass. Haven't ridden it much lately and the weather is cold (10C overnight, 14C during the day).

Put the battery on the smart charger overnight prior to a run. Turned the key on and pressed the starter and was rewarded with a "choonk" from the starter. Tried again, same "choonk". Cursing, I removed the seat and used my bypass starter (which I haven't had to use in anger since I wired it in) and the bike started up like a champ. Let it warm up for a minute, turned it off and tried to start it with the proper switch and "choonk". What's going on here?
 
Haven't ridden it much lately and the weather is cold (10C overnight, 14C during the day). ?

ooooh like a summers day , you lucky fella

what is the battery voltage showing on the dash when you try to start ?
much less than 11.8v ....time for new battery
 
You guys are right again...dash sez 11.1v and the voltmeter 12.3. It's a Motobatt and barely lasted 2 years.
12.3 is a little low. Have it load tested. You've checked all of the cable ends for corrosion and ground is tight on both ends? New batteries sit at 12.7 fully charged, though 2-3 years is the average life span on newer batteries. Older batteries will have longer service life. Lith-I batteries are the future... Here now; https://www.guzzitech.com/?s=Antigravity+&post_type=product
 
What smart charger are you using? Many of these batteries require a charge rate of at least 2 Amps to charge them up if depleted. Many of the smart "tenders" don't go above 0.6 A, not nearly enough. Try pushing a decent charge rate into it for an hour or so, just check the battery does not get hot.
 
I cleaned all the leads and terminals but there was no sign of crud. Still wouldn't start, so I followed Brian's advice and updated my charger to one that pumped out more amps. Left it on overnight and turned it off while I was at work. Came home and she fired straight up! I'll see how the battery holds her charge. Thanks for the advice everyone.
 
Back
Top