• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Griso died and not starting

P

Peter-3d

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jun 27, 2015
Messages
5
Location
UK
I would appreciate any ideas for tracing a problem in my dead 1100 2007 Griso.
The engine just died suddenly while out on a run. Had it recovered back home and set about fault finding.

Charged the battery as I flattened it trying to start engine.

There are sparks at the 2 outer plugs. I have dismantled cleaned and continuity tested the start/kill switch down to the connector.

Have checked all the fuses which are ok.

When ignition is switched on I think I can hear a buzz from the fuel pump.

Am I right in thinking it is more likely fuel as there are sparks?

Any ideas welcome.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. Its good to know you're there.

Grounds seem ok. I took the fuel pump out and found that the fuel line from filter to pump had become disconnected. (see photo)
I have had this bike a year, it was previously a friends bike, and was pleased to see it had an all metal filter - a Mahle KL145 - but the dealer repair shop who put this filter in in 2010 didn't correctly tighten the clamp which was more oval than round and too large. This is why it came off and left me stranded. The clear hose seems a bit soft. Is this the right pipe for immersion?

While the tank is off I will replace the inner spark plugs that look like the originals from 2007. Have soaked the plug recess in penetrating fluid for a day. Next task is to find a thin wall 16mm socket to get them out.

Having struggled with the quick release fuel hose connector under the tank I now see why it is essential to turn the engine over with the fuel pump disconnected so that the pressure is released. Saw helpful youtube posting

Fingers crossed that when I put it back together it will be ok.
 

Attachments

  • 2015-06-28 21.57.39.jpg
    2015-06-28 21.57.39.jpg
    76.1 KB · Views: 49
Had same problem griso 1100 2006 11.700 miles, awesome machine.
Removed pump and found filter off.
I am a mechanical engineer and can only describe what holds this lot together is not good!
Buy the best quality hose and clips you can get, when fitted secure the filter to the fuel pump body, without compressing the pump body, this should do the trick.
I have also replaced the hose to the injectors as the original was pinched, this probably contributed to the filter blowing off the fitting.
 
There was a recall in the USA for this issue. The original fuel hose (it sounds like yours is not original) was not rated for immersion in fuel and would get soft. Eventually it would get soft enough to pop off.
I replaced mine and in addition to the clamps I safety wired it together so that it could not come off with serious failure. The way mine is now it would just about take the line itself failing to come apart.
 
Thanks for the tip. I'll try to find submersible hose somewhere. It's disappointing that a Guzzi dealer would use the wrong hose and poor clips.
Also as noted in another posting about a spark plug socket to remove the inner plugs, I agree that the SEALEY part no. AK6557 is perfect and doesn't need modification. This is available in the UK - maybe other places too. I got this super quick on ebay uk from McCormick tools for 6.32GBP inc postage.
 
Just back from the hose shop. They tell me that the black original hose - the crinkly one Guzzi fit - is nylon and probably the best for immersion in petrol. I also see that the tie wraps used around the pump are nylon and haven't softened.

They also had black unleaded petrol hose which has a thick wall and reinforcement in the middle of the wall thickness.

I got a length of each and some double eared stainless steel hose clips for crimping.

They said that the clear pipe the dealer had fitted was polyurethane which is definitely not suitable.

So - any views of what is best? Nylon or unleaded petrol hose?
 
GT-Rx® said:
http://www.gates.com/products/autom...-truck/fuel-system/submersible-fuel-line-hose
Click to expand...
Used gate products mainly drive belts,, their products do exactly what it says on the tin.
Have thought about hard piping the inner pipe work and moving the filter outside of the tank if any more problems with parting pipes in the tank.
Can't understand why MG Went for this design in. The first place, nice and neat, but a PITA when it goes wrong.

Happy riding and may your parting pipes be few!
 
The gates submersible hose is the stuff, but you probably won't find it at your local parts store as it is also pretty expensive.
 
Got mine from car builder solutions in UK for £16 for 500mm.
Seems a lot but good for 150psi @ fully submersible in petrol.
 
You may want to just give those inner plugs a look to see how they are. They are high dollar Ferrari plugs and should do fine for 100,000 miles. Plug wires will go bad first. They were meant to be low maintenance.
 
Thanks for that but already done. platinum tip fitted on inner and iridium tip on outer.
11.5k miles on clock, the "long life" inner plugs were shot!
Fitted Pipercross air filter, Motul 10w60 full synth in engine and silkolene semi synth in g/box & CARC.
Run cheap oil for engine flush for 10 minutes on oil change (came out black) new engine oil still clean, set valve clearances.
just got to balance the throttle bodies, got guzzidiag & vac gauges so should be straight forward.
HMP "street legal" straight through exhaust sounds awsome.

Fuel pipes still in place

Great weather here in UK at present! enjoying the weather and bike.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top