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New input on front brake rotors

B

Branded

Tuned and Synch'ed
GT Contributor
Joined
Dec 8, 2008
Messages
29
Location
Mission Viejo, CA
I've read several of the other posts regarding front brake rotors most of which offer a solution that involves "freeing" the rivets (bobbins?). However, my mechanic told me just yesterday that the problem is that the rotor is too loose because the rivets or bobbins are worn and the only solution is to replace the rotors with aftermarket replacements. This seems to be a direct contradiction to what everyone says on this forum about the overall tightness of the system. The mechanic showed me the looseness by literally pulling up rotors and showing me how much play there was (about 3/16").

He said they had seen it on some Eldorados and it was not uncommon on heavier bikes like the Stelvios.

Any feedback on this?
 
So it sounds like the carriers have worn, not the bobbins. Side to side is where they should move, not up and down. If they have 3/16" vertical, sounds like you should replace them. Warranty item perhaps? If not, these are the options I offer; https://www.guzzitech.com/store/category/brakes/rotors/ - starting from $269/each, which IMO are far better then the stock Grimecas (though they are cheaper).
 
First question would be, what is the nature of your problem. I understand you are being told the cause is loose brake rotors, but without knowing the nature of the problem it is hard to comment on.
The brake rotors on Guzzi's typically float. It is normal for them to move. Some movement is good but too much movement COULD be a problem. But part of it depends on how much movement and part of it is what direction the movement is in.
 
Thanks Todd & Michael,
As Todd mentioned, they need to be replaced. The movement was up (and down) as opposed to sideways and the result was that at speeds over 60 mph the front end would shudder substantially when I braked, and from 15 mph to a stop would kind of "lurch" or grab/release making a smooth stop very difficult and dangerous. Todd is replacing the rotors in a week.
 
What year and how many miles?

I had the "warping" on my 12S (actually pad buildup) - new HH pads and regular aggressive braking kept everything floating as designed.
 
toma nova said:
What year and how many miles?

I had the "warping" on my 12S (actually pad buildup) - new HH pads and regular aggressive braking kept everything floating as designed.
Click to expand...

Same here. Replace my pads with a set of double H pads and cleaned the rotors and bobbins and problem went away. Suspected it was the soap I was using to wash the bike but not sure.

Little confused on the rotors bobins explanation. They should move up and down (parallel to the tire) as that is how they expand with heat......no. If they move side to side (towards the centre of the tire) would that not indicate a problem. Every pair of floating disks I have had behaved in that manner.
 
To Toma Nova's question: It is a 2013 Stelvio NTX with 16K miles. For canuck1969, I am also confused. I've been told that it is neither the bobbins nor the rotor, but instead the carrier that is worn. My guess is that the sideways movement (not vertical) would be to center the rotors between the brake pads. But that is only a guess. I'm seeing Todd this weekend and I will try to get the low-down on this.
 
OK, so here's the final episode on the front brake shudder et all. I took the bike to Todd at GT and one of the rotors was bent. He said it was probably done by a careless mechanic during a tire change when they put the wheel in the clamp. Regarding the "play" or movement in the rotors, it is supposed to be slightly sideways to center itself between the brake pads.
 
When I had bad brake 'shudder' I could measure about 1mm of runout as the disk was turned (only one disk ) so took the disks off and checked them in the workshop. One of the alloy carriers was bent and I guessed it was done during a tyre change, either refitting or putting the wheel down on the disk.
 
If you really did have 3/16 radial play between the disc and carrier I would have thought it would make the bike dangerous. I also can't imagine how that could happen. I have known about that amount axial play in a rear brake, caused by a cush drive seizing up. I only had to replace the carrier.
 
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