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V7 C-S Suspension Thread

Oh that's the Andreani kit - I've seen that. I was thinking Ohlins released a kit under their own name.
 
Emailed a guy in NY who told me K-tech might be offering a V7 cartridge along the lines of the Andreani. He's getting them to look at building one for his bike which might result in a product; all speculation at this point in time.
 
Emailed a guy in NY who told me K-tech might be offering a V7 cartridge along the lines of the Andreani.
There's a small handful of products out there right now; i.e. I also work with Traxxion, who offers a great full cartridge kit. Cost is ~$1250 all in. Interested?


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I'm trying hard to bring products that I know work quite well for less money. So it just depends on how much you want to spend. If people want to invest the same amount of time and money I have over the last 15 years, please do, just share the info and how much you spend. ;)

I can also offer a kit to fit the Ohlins forks shown below for your V7. Cost would be ~$3500 or so including the forks built to order.

43RTC
 
I have Öhlins rear suspension on my bike that I had custom ordered from the factory two years ago (the perks of living in Sweden). Happy with the way the rear is behaving, great improvement even though I 'm not an aggressive rider.
Really have to do something about the forks to get the entire bike together though so I'm following this post with great interest.
 

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Random question about rear suspension. I'm assuming that you can fit any rear suspension brand on the V7, as long as you have correct sizing. What are the magic numbers to follow?
 
Based from his store, I'm sure he know every dimension by memory...however I'm still curious to know the numbers for myself.
 
Ok...maybe the lack of sleep is getting to me, but it seems that Todd's first post give you the adjustments to help hone in your suspension (compression, rebound, sag, etc.). My question is if I were to purchase new suspension, what numbers would I need? I cannot seem to find that information.

With the Canadian dollar in the hole, I need to review all Canadian options.
Basically you need to decide what components you want, then let Todd know. He will ask you what your weight is, and have the suspension components matched to your weight. When you get your shocks/ fork kit/ or both, you can dial it in. I set my for the smoothest ride, and the sag worked out perfectly front and back. I do not know that you can get custom made Canadian parts. I do know that I am very happy with the Racetechs on the back and the Mupo kit up front. Hope this helps.
 
installing the matris kit finally. sorry for my ignorance but cant find a definite answer. when installing and filling the oil level with the spring in, do i push down/collapse the forks completely and fill to 60mm gap? that seems not right, thats basically the top of the spring.
 
installing the matris kit finally. sorry for my ignorance but cant find a definite answer. when installing and filling the oil level with the spring in, do i push down/collapse the forks completely and fill to 60mm gap? that seems not right, thats basically the top of the spring.
Yes, compress the tube fully to set the air gap. Top of the spring sounds about right.
 
ok makes sense now, yea it was just under the spring half an inch or so. Thanks Todd. been sitting on this kit forever and the winter is a good time to get it done.
 
had another question which I can't seem to find an answer for. Folks talked about pushing the forks up in the triples 10-20mm for better handling. Once that is done, what is protocol for height adjustment in the rear shocks to coincide with the front?
 
had another question which I can't seem to find an answer for. Folks talked about pushing the forks up in the triples 10-20mm for better handling. Once that is done, what is protocol for height adjustment in the rear shocks to coincide with the front?
Email me for the quickest reply... but the bike benefits from raising the forks 20mm, and leaving the shocks set to as delivered length.
 
I tried this to get the frame more parallel to the ground and was a bit worried bout how handling was to be changed. Bike just got a bit quicker in the steering, but not nervous at all.
 
I had my forks at 15mm above the top T, but put them back to flush. I was occasionally getting a bit of a shimmy on the freeway at 80-90mph. Since going back to flush, this doesn't happen anymore. Of course, it may have nothing to do with how high the forks are in the T's because I also put LSL speed bars on the bike. Since I'm no longer in the "sit up and beg" position, my body is no longer acting like a sail and trying to pull the front end off the ground. That's what I get for doing two things at once.
 
I tried this to get the frame more parallel to the ground and was a bit worried bout how handling was to be changed. Bike just got a bit quicker in the steering, but not nervous at all.
Decreasing the rake would make the bike turn quicker and add to the stability. It's in the opposite direction where it would get nervous (think chopper vs. MotoGP bike). Look at my pics below for reference. The MGS-01 steep rake, and the Dondo long rake. The MGS is rock solid, the Dondo quite nervous.
 
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