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Stelvio headlight upgrade comments

Re:Stelvio out and about pics here...

NJC wrote:
I did all the adjustments on mine, on a country lane, pitch black, not on main stand and bearing weight, got them to the optimum that they could reach, and I stand by my comments, they just are not good enough for fast night riding, there is room for improvement
Click to expand...

Well, I haven't had my bike but just a couple of days. Yep, the high beam sucks. There is a lot of light there, it just isn't penetrating any distance. The adjustment is fine, as I can see exactly where the cutoff is on low beam for both bulbs, and it is just where it should be. I don't want to mess that up.

I added a set of driving lights today, so the drive home tonight will be better. Tomorrow I'll try to wire in the second high beam.

I may try a set of Sylvania Silverstars. Those add a bit more photons.
 
Mann wrote:
Why would Guzzi wire these up like this ??? Could there be a charging issue ?????
Click to expand...
Makes no sense to me, there is no charging issue, as the alternator on the Stelvio is the same as the Norge, and that uses both main beams.
Having just looked at the wiring diagram, it is clear on that, that both main beams should be wired in, an omission perhaps?

Both Philips and Osram make the 80% brighter bulbs.
 
I asked MG why there is no cable to the 2nd high-beam.
They told me, it is not a technical problem
The reasons are the new EU-standards.

So i connected the 2nd high-beam with a piece of wire.

- up to now (after 4000km, mostly at night): no problem

cu
Bavarian
 
Well, I made two changes. I have yet to wire the second filament because I'm still looking for the right connector.

First, I installed a set of Sylvania Silverstar bulbs. They are a little brighter, and they appear to have a sharper 'cutoff' on low beam, and maybe a bit less scatter. Maybe. But there is now a bit better light on high.

Second, I added a small relay to the high beam, and wired those contacts to the fog light switch. Now when I got to high beam, I get ALL lights on. :woohoo:

As a side note, I found that with the high beam, driving lights, heated grips and electric vest on, the alternator can't quite keep up at idle. :huh: But the voltage immediately jumps up with a few revs.
 
Wayne, whose driving lights did you use, and where did you mount? Could you post a pic of the finished project with details on tips/tricks of the install??

I'm rethinking my mounting plans for the PIAA 1100x's and might drill the outer underside of the fairing just below the headlights and mount them down there. No wiring running down near the exhaust header heat, no chance of bashing them on the ground in a tipover (though I planned to mount them inside the crash bars, again, maybe a bit too close to heat source??) Work in progress...
 
Mann wrote:
Interesting thread. I wouldnt trust the scotchlock connector very long. My experience is that those things dont hold up well in the long term, especially with any weather exposure.
Click to expand...

Is a Posi-tap OK for long term and high wattage?
 
I think that is better than the scotch buddies but Id pry apart a spade crimp, re-crimp and then solder. Im going to be doing a Stelvio soon.

Subject shift : Im also going to be looking at installing an HID conversion kit consisting of 2 H-4 HID bulbs with solenoid beam adjuster and ballast .
 
Mann wrote:
Subject shift : Im also going to be looking at installing an HID conversion kit consisting of 2 H-4 HID bulbs with solenoid beam adjuster and ballast .
Click to expand...
Just make sure the lights are well adjusted if you do. Nothing worse than an head on at night because the driver coming the other way couldn't see anything due to being blinded. This is a real problem on very short wheelbase vehicles like bikes.
 
Yes, I agree. I converted the low beam on my 1200GS to HID. The HID is brighter but the light pattern is not as good as would be the case with a reflector designed specifically for the HID bulb.
 
John in PA wrote:
Wayne, whose driving lights did you use, and where did you mount? Could you post a pic of the finished project with details on tips/tricks of the install??

I'm rethinking my mounting plans for the PIAA 1100x's and might drill the outer underside of the fairing just below the headlights and mount them down there. No wiring running down near the exhaust header heat, no chance of bashing them on the ground in a tipover (though I planned to mount them inside the crash bars, again, maybe a bit too close to heat source??) Work in progress...
Click to expand...

It is a cheap set from an auto parts store. I routed the wire down to the lower crash bar tube and up. You can see it in the photo if you look close. I like some distance between the headlight and the auxilary lights. It makes me look bigger to the morons that are out to kill me.
But of course you don't want them too low, or the light won't reach out far enough.
 
John in PA wrote:
Wayne, whose driving lights did you use, and where did you mount? Could you post a pic of the finished project with details on tips/tricks of the install??

I'm rethinking my mounting plans for the PIAA 1100x's and might drill the outer underside of the fairing just below the headlights and mount them down there. No wiring running down near the exhaust header heat, no chance of bashing them on the ground in a tipover (though I planned to mount them inside the crash bars, again, maybe a bit too close to heat source??) Work in progress...
Click to expand...

With them on.
 
Thanks for the info and pics, Wayne. I think I'm going to mount to the fairing, right where you can see the red bits below and lateral to the headlights. The 1100X's have a large footprint on the mount, so will spread the load on the plastic and avoid vibration and cracking. Short route to the pigtails, too. Higher for lighting purposes, away from tipover danger (PIAA won't let you buy one light, don't want to buy a whole set if I screw one up!) And, no heat concerns is in my original plan. Just gotta make up a template to drill accurately.
I've used the 1100X's on my Quota (they drained the battery REALLy well if you didn't keep RPM's above 3500 or so!!), and they are
FIERCELY brilliant. Transferred the first set to the Spyder, but liked them well enough to get a set for the Big S.

Did you find matching connectors, or cobble like I'm planning on?? (I've got Posilocks and good quality waterproof plugs to customize the harness)

Limited time to ride and futz with bikes, though. Work sure can get in the way of a really good hobby!!
 
John in PA wrote:
Did you find matching connectors, or cobble like I'm planning on?? (I've got Posilocks and good quality waterproof plugs to customize the harness)
Click to expand...

I just gave in and cut the connectors off. Crimps and heat shrink.
It LOOKS to be a more standard connector though, not like the GPS.
 
John:

Did you get the harness from piaa with your 1100xs? If so, I recommend you use it. It includes a relay and is made of good wire. All you need to do is plumb in to switched power somewhere to toggle the relay. Those piaas need full voltage to be as bright as they are designed to be.
 
The Guzzi on-board wiring for the factory foglamp kit includes a relay (added by me, as they leave it blank from the factory) The 1100X's have the same rated current draw (55W) as the Hella projector lamps that Guzzi uses for the foglights. I figured it was an even swap.

Houston, is there a problem?
 
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