• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Overheat G11 = high beam indicator??

not-fishing

not-fishing

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Famiglia
Joined
Oct 23, 2012
Messages
173
Location
Folsom, CA
So today after a 75 mile ride in 95 degree heat my high beam indicator came on just before I parked the bike after a little stop & go traffic.

A previous time when high beam indicator came on with a hot day I changed the mode and noticed my voltage varied between 14.3 and 14.1 volts. So it's charging. Usually I end up turning off the motor for a minute or two and restarting (rebooting) with the blue indicator going out. It doesn't always work. Lately I've tried the high beam switch a couple of times (on-off-on-off) and lo - I was able to turn off the high beam indicator light.

Now I have a theory it's a overheating or high heat problem. I don't think it's a relay problem. I wonder how the voltage regulator is isolated from the basic engine heat. It could be the switch but that would be to easy.

I must investigate.
 
Yesterday in stop-n-sit traffic the blue light came on again. Then after breaking free and a couple of miles @ 60 mph it went out. Now I really figure it's a regulator heat problem. The funny thing is my voltage is good. It must be some weird gremlin.

So I have a question, is the regulator part of the alternator? I don't see one in my G11 parts book.
 
The regulator is internal to the alternator. When the blue light is on, is the high beam actually on? It could very easily be your switch has a bleed from contamination at high temps.
 
If you run with the high beam on often, the heat will melt the plug in the headlight bucket or on the back of the bulb. Both plugs are really poorly spec'ed connectors. I'd start there. Post on what you find. A good reason for an LED bulb - before it melts.
 
Todd, I'm using a LED bulb and the high beams are off.

I suppose what your thinking is that there is an extra load somewhere that is tripping the High Beam indicator. I'll pull apart and check the connections tonight for signs of excess heat. I might sand / roughen / contact clean the connectors when I reassemble.

I wonder if it's a load measure indicator or an output measured indicator.

I also hit the hi-lo switch in each occasion just to check if it's "Operator Error".

It only happens when the temps are over 95 degrees and the Griso is idling for to dam long due to traffic or the temps are over 100 and it doesn't matter if I'm moving @ 60 mph.
 
Last edited:
If you are using an LED bulb, it could be voltage back feeding through the high beam circuit of the bulb. Did you have the issue before you installed the LED bulb? It could be back feeding from somewhere else, but at the bulb is the most likely place. I don't see it as having anything to do with your regulator/rectifier unless your voltage is going way high.
 
I'm not sure how it would back-feed with the high beam switched off.

The voltage listed, last time the blue light came on and I looked, was 14.1+ at idle.

I just got done with a little 60 mile ride, 65 degree weather, 40 miles of 60 mph and 20 miles of stop - n - go / sit on the side of the road & check map idle then 25 mph. No blue light.
 
Both the high beam circuit and the low beam circuit connect to the same LED bulb, don't they?
If that bulb let some of the power coming in on the low beam out on the high beam in, it could light up the high beam indicator. That would be like the voltage for the high beam circuit getting in the back door tricking the light to think that the high beam was on.
It could be something else, I don't think that is the only way the high beam light could be lighting up when it should not be. But I would think it the issue was at the switch itself then not only would the high beam indicator be lighting up but the high beam itself should be lighting up. Unless the amount of voltage leaking past the switch is just enough to light up the indicator but not enough to light up the high beam light itself.
I ask again, did you have this issue with the standard type bulb? What happens if you replace the LED bulb with a standard bulb, what happens?
 
First, thanks for the suggestions.

Here are my facts.
1. I didn't have this problem before I switched bulbs.
2. It does not happen when the outside air temps are below 95 and the Griso has not been sitting in traffic a long time. The high beam indicator and switch work normally. Above 100 degrees it doesn't matter moving or stopped. which makes me believe it is an engine-heat problem
3. When the blue light comes on and I have not switched on the high beams on, the High beam light is not on - only the low beam.
4. If I press the high-low switch (repeatedly and pausing) the blue indicator does not go out when it has "self energized".
5. While sitting at a stop for a delay at 95+ degrees the high beam indicator will "self energize". After 3+ minutes of riding at 60 mph this same indicator will go off by itself.

I can see where it might be something with the LED bulb installer (me) or a heat related movement in the headlight assembly. I don't believe it's a handlebar switch problem because it only happens when the temps are hot.

I do still have the original bulb and I guess I'll just watch for the next 100+ degree day coming to Sacramento and do the switch-bulb-ride experiment. That way I'll be able to isolate if it's the LED bulb or something else.
 
Ok. My ignorance of a Griso is going to show here. Is there a fan on the Griso oil cooler or any other type of overheat circuit? If so that circuit may be accidentally (or on purpose knowing Guzzi) connected to the high beam indicator light.

Just taking a SWAG.
 
If the problem goes away with the old, normal, bulb the bad connection is in the bulb.
If it does not go away with the old bulb the intermittent short is somewhere else.
That would be the first thing I would test as it seems to be the change that triggered the issue. But maybe it is not.
 
I have this exact same issue with an LED bulb.

I have thought about drilling a couple venting holes in the bucket.

Knowing that LEDs run at a significantly lower draw, part of me is thinking this is a non issue and to just live with it. Thoughts?

I have the Cyclops one off the ADV group and I've had it for over a year. MUCH improved over stock.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top