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V7 Charging issues / Dead battery -- PLEASE READ

A diode is basically a switch. It allows current to go one way, but not the other. The results you got are typical. They are not quantitative in any way. The fact that there is no resistance one way and some the other, tells you it works.
 
Todd - what about having the customer remove their VR, cut off their harness and ship it to you. You can do all the crimping/soldering and send back a new VR.

And in parallel, if enough people send back their broken VR harnesses, you can do a core exchange without delay.
 
Todd - what about having the customer remove their VR, cut off their harness and ship it to you. You can do all the crimping/soldering and send back a new VR.

And in parallel, if enough people send back their broken VR harnesses, you can do a core exchange without delay.


definitely wouldn't be interested in that...just sayin.
 
^ why's that? It's plug-n-play. Only negative is downtime lost. The VR is on its own subharness (which you'll trash when you get rid of the broken VR); you're not modifying the main harness.


BTW, in addition to the mounting plate, I had to use some spacers to clear the 4 mounting bolts.
 

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OK, I'll keep digging for the stock ends. If we have any electrical connector guys here that can help me look, email me direct; Todd at GuzziTech.com
Do you have pictures of the connectors? Are there any numbers or markings on the housing?
 
^ why's that? It's plug-n-play. Only negative is downtime lost. The VR is on its own subharness (which you'll trash when you get rid of the broken VR); you're not modifying the main harness.

Not saying it's a bad idea...it just seems more complicated than it should be. If a little bit of soldering is in order, then that's fine.
 
My dealer said that in the manual it says that it should be between 13 - 15v...i m going again tomorrow to tell him to contact the factory..i attached an image from the manual...
 

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As for me, anything that gets my V7 on the road ASAP is what I would like. I don't mind crimping or soldering if a true plug and play product isn't possible within a few days, the days are getting nicer and nicer and I don't want to lose out on any riding
 
My dealer said that in the manual it says that it should be between 13 - 15v...i m going again tomorrow to tell him to contact the factory..i attached an image from the manual...

“Otherwise, if the correct operation of the alternator has already been checked, replace the alternator.”

What? Maybe they mean the R/R, but it's just plain confusing.
 
Two connectors? I'll see if the shop keeps my old VR so I can snip off those connectors and send them down to you.
Yes, if they do and can, snip the wires closest to the regulator, so I can then wire the leads directly into the new MOSFET VR plugs.
 
^ why's that? It's plug-n-play. Only negative is downtime lost. The VR is on its own subharness (which you'll trash when you get rid of the broken VR); you're not modifying the main harness.


BTW, in addition to the mounting plate, I had to use some spacers to clear the 4 mounting bolts.

Did you buy your kit from roadstercycle? V7 has six wires coming out, how does that work? Also, circuit breaker or maxifuse version? Thanks.
 
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Did you buy your kit from roadstercycle? Which kit did you go with if so? Also, circuit breaker or maxifuse version? Thanks.

Bought mine from this seller (there are many others if you search): http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-SHIN...hash=item58a3ccf7ca:m:mkhmKfGHbRfG_5CQV4NlU0g

For $120 shipped, it comes with everything you need. I already had some AL sheet laying around, so cutting was no big deal (made a template from cardboard first to get shape down). No need for any circuit breakers, the VR output goes to your fusebox already.
 
Bought mine from this seller (there are many others if you search): http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-SHIN...hash=item58a3ccf7ca:m:mkhmKfGHbRfG_5CQV4NlU0g

For $120 shipped, it comes with everything you need. I already had some AL sheet laying around, so cutting was no big deal (made a template from cardboard first to get shape down). No need for any circuit breakers, the VR output goes to your fusebox already.

Awesome, thanks. Wiring is not my strongpoint at all, and I'm still not 100% sure how to do this. You're basically cutting off the 6 leads from the old VR, then soldering them back with this kit onto the new Shindengen unit and that's it? (besides needing a adapter plate to mount) Any trouble with which wires go where? Thank you.
 
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