• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Help please w Valve Adjustment on 2007 Griso

MartinDC

MartinDC

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Mar 14, 2016
Messages
26
Location
Washington, DC
Type: USA, 2007 Moto Guzzi Griso 1100

Problem: Sounds like a lawn mower following valve adjustment; cannot stay on; low idle; right cylinder is way hotter than left.

Hello Group,

After performing a valve adjustment on my ’07 Griso, I cannot get it right.

Found TDC with a straw and S & D and making sure I was in the correct stroke/cycle.

Adjusted outlet 0.152 mm and inlet 0.102 mm. (I got a pocket knife type of feeler gauge from Advanced Auto Parts and the brand is Autocraft.) To verify I got the right thing adjusted, I put the feeler in and adjusted until I felt a friction type of pull and drag. I then tightened bolt while maintaining that clearance.

After trying quite a few measurements, and starting to no avail, the battery ran out of juice, and I had to use the car to jump the bike. It took a couple of tries to start but:

The engine needed throttle, and when it started it sounded like an old lawn mower. Very low idle. Turned off when I let the engine speed go down.

Although this is my first try (a) Am I using the gauge feeler wrong, (b) Am I using the wrong one, (c) Assuming an OK gauge, is this the correct valve measurements, (d) Does this sound like too loose or too tight, and (e) Did I mess something else up, such as the timing?

Thank you very much for your help.

Be safe out there.

Martin
 
If it's your first time, be sure that you are on the compression stroke. What did the valves measure before you adjusted? Your specs are the tighter U.S. spec, once you figure out the issue, set to IN: .15mm EX: .20mm

You cannot mess up timing on an injected bike. You only touched valve lash, so this is your issue.
 
Thank you very much, Todd.
Question: You said - your specs are the tighter US spec, but set to 0.15 (in), .20 mm (out). Isn't that contradictory though? And there is a US spec?? I should have noted old measurements.
Please correct me if I am wrong.
 
Did you put each cylinder at top dead center seperatly or just one? Also, did you make sure you were on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke? You make sure you are turning the crank the correct direction. Watch the sequence of the valves. The exhaust will close, inlet will open, inlet will close then the piston will go to top dead center. To check make sure both inlet and exhaust rockers on that side are loose with some tappet clearance. Then do your adjust. If you had to loosen them a lot you probably missed that step.
 
Did you accidently pull a plug lead out from the coil. After you got TDC, S is the left side and D is the right, there should be "play" when on the compression stroke. Sorry if I'm stating the obvious.
 
What others have said, Martin, especially Todd's re compression stroke and "don't worry" about anything more than getting it right now.

And, where are you in the D.C. metro blob?

While there are probably any number of folks closer than I am -- Cross Junction, Va. -- I do get into NOVA (Great Falls, mostly) a bit and could to stop by.

If, however (as I suspect) you are itching to ride right darn now and still bumfuzzled about this, you are also welcome to drive a cage out to my Moto Grappa where we can go over the process with my still-apart Norge.

Whatever you do, it'll all be worth the trouble when you solve it when you saddle up and ride. Besides, this maddening episode will remain a story in your wrenching repertoire of tales. :)

Best wishes,

Bill
 
Key to getting the correct TDC is to watch the intake valve open as you rotate the engine. After it closes, continue rotation (clockwise as viewed from the front) until the piston reaches the top of the stroke. The S and D marks show up on each revolution. It is the correct TDC for valve adjustment every other time they show up.
 
Todds comment about the clearances was saying that you were setting the valves to the tighter US clearance spec, .10 and .15 mm.
He was suggesting you use the looser world spec of .15 and .20 mm.
Not to sound stupid, but make sure you have each piston on TDC of the compression stroke when you set that side. Obviously the two pistons are not at TDC at the same time.
Also, did you pull the spark plugs when you were rotating the engine to TDC? That is the best way to do that. Maybe the plugs got damaged or the leads are not on right.
 
Kevin.NZ said:
Did you accidently pull a plug lead out from the coil. After you got TDC, S is the left side and D is the right, there should be "play" when on the compression stroke. Sorry if I'm stating the obvious.
Click to expand...


Thank you, Kevin.
All of what you said is not obvious and worth a double check. I assume you meant whether the coil was still good and connecting to the spark plug right?

I may have to double check the coils. However, to test them I pulled both plugs, pushed start button and tested for a spark. Both were conducting electricity. I know a dangerous proposition, but was done for a split second with all safety precautions. But will investigate further.
 
Thank you, AbbieNormal.
To find the correct TDC of the compression stroke, here is what I am following: (this is consistent with your: "ex open, in opens, in closes, piston rises, correct TDC.")

1) Lets just start with Piston down and Exhaust Valve open
2) Piston coming up. Exhaust closes. Both Valves closed.
3) Piston reaches the top (but this is incorrect TDC for this discussion)
4) Piston starts going down. Intake opens.
5) Piston reaches bottom.
6) Piston starts coming up. Intake closes. Both Valves are then closed.
7) Piston reaches top and this is the correct compression TDC....right? Valves have play and adjusted here.
8) Spark & Power - Piston goes down
9) Exhaust Stroke - Piston starts going up and exhaust valve open (repeat of #1 and #2)
10) Piston rises to top, valves closed, piston reaches top (repeat of #3). Incorrect TDC.

Also - yes, I was rotating the nut clockwise from looking at the bike from the front, or looking at the bikes headlight.

Thank you
 
john zibell said:
Key to getting the correct TDC is to watch the exhaust valve open as you rotate the engine. After it closes, continue rotation (clockwise as viewed from the front) until the piston reaches the top of the stroke. The S and D marks show up on each revolution. It is the correct TDC for valve adjustment every other time they show up.
Click to expand...

Hello John,
I think there is a gap in your explanation, and my apologies if I sound high maintenance.

I found compression-TDC by the following: Step 7.
1) Lets just start with Piston down and Exhaust Valve open
2) Piston coming up. Exhaust closes. Both Valves closed.
3) Piston reaches the top (but this is incorrect TDC for this discussion)
4) Piston starts going down. Intake opens.
5) Piston reaches bottom.
6) Piston starts coming up. Intake closes. Both Valves are then closed.
7) Piston reaches top and this is the correct compression TDC....Valves have play and adjusted here.
8) Spark & Power - Piston goes down
9) Exhaust Stroke - Piston starts going up and exhaust valve open (repeat of #1 and #2)
10) Piston rises to top, valves closed, piston reaches top (repeat of #3). Incorrect TDC.

However, your explanation seems to indicate exhaust-cycle-TDC or #3 / #10.
Are we on the same page that you meant compression-TDC and step #7, or exhaust-TDC and step 3/10?

Thank you for taking the time to read.
Martin
 
MartinDC said:
Hello John,
I think there is a gap in your explanation, and my apologies if I sound high maintenance.

I found compression-TDC by the following: Step 7.
1) Lets just start with Piston down and Exhaust Valve open
2) Piston coming up. Exhaust closes. Both Valves closed.
3) Piston reaches the top (but this is incorrect TDC for this discussion)
4) Piston starts going down. Intake opens.
5) Piston reaches bottom.
6) Piston starts coming up. Intake closes. Both Valves are then closed.
7) Piston reaches top and this is the correct compression TDC....Valves have play and adjusted here.
8) Spark & Power - Piston goes down
9) Exhaust Stroke - Piston starts going up and exhaust valve open (repeat of #1 and #2)
10) Piston rises to top, valves closed, piston reaches top (repeat of #3). Incorrect TDC.

However, your explanation seems to indicate exhaust-cycle-TDC or #3 / #10.
Are we on the same page that you meant compression-TDC and step #7, or exhaust-TDC and step 3/10?

Thank you for taking the time to read.
Martin
Click to expand...


I make a mistake in my write up, Meant to say watch for intake to open. I've corrected my post.
 
MartinDC said:
No no....thank you, John....Always wanted to check out Huntsville....Huge Apollo history buff.
Click to expand...


Come on down any time. Some of the systems I worked on are at the Space and Rocket Center. Not NASA stuff, but military systems.
 
MartinDC said:
Type: USA, 2007 Moto Guzzi Griso 1100

Problem: Sounds like a lawn mower following valve adjustment; cannot stay on; low idle; right cylinder is way hotter than left.

Hello Group,

After performing a valve adjustment on my ’07 Griso, I cannot get it right.

Found TDC with a straw and S & D and making sure I was in the correct stroke/cycle.

Adjusted outlet 0.152 mm and inlet 0.102 mm. (I got a pocket knife type of feeler gauge from Advanced Auto Parts and the brand is Autocraft.) To verify I got the right thing adjusted, I put the feeler in and adjusted until I felt a friction type of pull and drag. I then tightened bolt while maintaining that clearance.

After trying quite a few measurements, and starting to no avail, the battery ran out of juice, and I had to use the car to jump the bike. It took a couple of tries to start but:

The engine needed throttle, and when it started it sounded like an old lawn mower. Very low idle. Turned off when I let the engine speed go down.

Although this is my first try (a) Am I using the gauge feeler wrong, (b) Am I using the wrong one, (c) Assuming an OK gauge, is this the correct valve measurements, (d) Does this sound like too loose or too tight, and (e) Did I mess something else up, such as the timing?

Thank you very much for your help.

Be safe out there.

Martin
Click to expand...
Update:
Engine was running on one cylinder. (Hence lawn mower low sound). No compression on left side, due to bent exhaust valve.
While now obvious to test I: (a) Checked both coils & spark plugs by resting the connected and threaded plug resting on valve cover and looking for a spark. OK. (b) Went [clockwise] through cycle by putting finger on spark plug hole and feeling for any compression. None. (c) I pulled exhaust pipe and visibly saw that the ex valve does sit/seal/close at any time during the rotation. To again verify I looked at the other cylinder and I saw correct closure.

Thank you all for your help. Onto seeking mechanics, and searching for parts if I want to take head off and replace valves solo.

Purchased it used, so getting more and more skeptical on the previous condition.
 
Last edited:
Bill Hagan said:
What others have said, Martin, especially Todd's re compression stroke and "don't worry" about anything more than getting it right now.

And, where are you in the D.C. metro blob?

While there are probably any number of folks closer than I am -- Cross Junction, Va. -- I do get into NOVA (Great Falls, mostly) a bit and could to stop by.

If, however (as I suspect) you are itching to ride right darn now and still bumfuzzled about this, you are also welcome to drive a cage out to my Moto Grappa where we can go over the process with my still-apart Norge.

Whatever you do, it'll all be worth the trouble when you solve it when you saddle up and ride. Besides, this maddening episode will remain a story in your wrenching repertoire of tales. :)

Best wishes,

Bill
Click to expand...
Thank you Bill. I really appreciate the offer. I am in Arlington...so anytime I get this griso running Great Falls is on the list. Good luck with your Norge and thank you for the words of encouragement.
 
Are you sure it is bent or do you have it adjusted so the lifter does not allow it to seat. If you haven't already, pull the valve cover and see if there is any tappet cleaance. If there is then bent. If not, loosen till there is and see if it seats. If it does, relax, have a beer and start over. If it doesn't, have a beer and figure out where it is going to get the head pulled.
 
After you make the check that Rudy suggests, and you are unlucky and it is actually bent (unlikely) be aware that the new bikes use a rotational torque method to torque the heads. If you aren't familiar with this, it may be best to take the bike to a dealer.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top