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850t gearbox

Mc Tool

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Jan 23, 2011
Messages
101
Location
Thornbury , Riverton, New Zealand
After reading here some good info about re-shimming gearbox ( Peter Roper ) I had a go .
I stripped the box and replaced all the shaft bearings ( not the needle rollers inside the gear wheels ), clutch push rod seals/O-rings and oil seals and the selector ratchet pawl assy and spring, and followed the instructions for the re-shimming and cut the correct thickness gasket for the rear cover , all is good except that now downshifting is a bit hit and miss which I think is down to me needing to adjust the eccentric bolt and locknut at the rear of the box , but this box seems noisy to me , whilst riding at open road speed I can hear the gearbox wirring away and at idle in neutral it wirrs away until I disengage the clutch ( to be honest I cant remember what sort of oil I put in it, either mineral or synthetic gear oil ) I guess there are no nasty noises , I just expected it to be a bit quieter . I had a good look at all the gears and they seem to be in good condition .... no wear marks on teeth and they seemed reasonably tight on the shafts ( which is why I didn't replace the gear needle rollers ) . Are these gear boxes usually noisy and what is the best type/brand of oil for them? I have also replaced the bearing in the swing arm that supports the universal joint , and shifting ( apart from the downshifting which I know I have to attend to ) it seems a bit agricultural , but having never owned an old Guzzi before Im not sure if I am expecting to much .
 
The gear boxes are a bit noisy. Interesting that you didn't use a factory gasket for the back cover. My preference for gear box oil is a quality synthetic gear lube. I use the Mobil 1 product in 75W90, but to cut your noise, the Redline version may be better as it tends to be a bit thicker. Wine in 5th is pretty normal for these machines. It is a good way to tell you are in 5th!!

Also on the down shifting issue, check the linkage for correct adjustment. Be sure you and get a good throw on the shift lever to make the shift. Also pre-loading the shifter for both up and downshifts helps.
 
I didn't use factory gasket because I have lots of gasket paper in various thicknesses . Where possible I scan a new factory gasket and save the image and then when I need another I just print it out on the right thickness gasket paper ( my printer cant tell the difference between photo paper and gasket paper ) and cut it out with a scalpel and wad punches , works good for gaskets you use a lot like rocker covers & carb tops . Sometimes I can even scan the actual gasket surface of the part. Saves money , a trip to town and the wait .I think my gearbox has Valvoline synspeed in it. And now I don't have to worry about my musical gearbox . The linkage has been replaced ( 2 x 6mm rose joints and a bit of threaded rod ) and the lever has unrestricted travel so Im hoping its that eccentric adjuster , I get the feeling that the selector drum is not being rotated enough because , from neutral if I press the lever right down it wont go into 1st until I start to let the clutch out. Biggest problem I have is that after nearly getting myself killed a few years ago the Mrs is dead set against bikes now ( Ha, that's about the only thing she and my Mother have ever agreed on,) so if I want a ride I have to nip out while shes not around , and it doesn't pay to be caught fiddling with it as this is ( correctly ) interpreted as preparing for a ride..... so I don't get it out to play often or for very long :)
 
The reluctance to go into first isn't uncommon. With the bike on the center stand and engine off, place the bike in neutral. Press down on the shift lever and then rotate the back wheel. Observe the extra distance the shift lever moves. If you get a bit of movement, then the eccentric is probably correct. If no extra movement, then check the linkage and lastly the eccentric. I haven't found an eccentric incorrect from the factory yet. Of course there is no guarantee someone hasn't messed with it between the factory and your possession of the bike.

BTW, must be nice to have that printer and gasket stock. The gasket thickness is critical as it is taken into account when you shim the shift drum. A little tight without the gasket, then just right with one.
 
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