• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

95 Sport Shifter seal

S

sorville

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jun 13, 2009
Messages
8
I haven't been here for quite awhile, so I am about to start a project on my 95 sport, I need to replace the oil seal at the shifter shaft in the rear cover, are there any tips or procedures posted. I am getting a lot of gear oil on my rear tire, not good... Any help will be appreciated.
 
This requires removal of the gearbox. The seal is an o-ring that resides in the back cover of the gearbox. Since you will have the gearbox out, check condition of the clutch, and I'd replace every seal and o-ring in the gearbox. This is also a good time to replace the input and output bearing with a steel cage bearings (they are the same size bearing 3205) and to shim the shift drum if needed for smoother shifting. Also since you are about there, I'd replace the engine rear main that is now over 20 years old if it hasn't been replaced before. If you haven't been in a gearbox before, I suggest you do the work with someone that has done them before. Getting the gear shafts back in and the forks aligned can be a little tricky, not to mention getting the back cover on after removal. When you do go to remove the cover, Have the gearbox in neutral and remove the spring loaded detente for the shift drum that is on the left side of the gearbox. It will make life easier.
 
john zibell said:
This requires removal of the gearbox. The seal is an o-ring that resides in the back cover of the gearbox. Since you will have the gearbox out, check condition of the clutch, and I'd replace every seal and o-ring in the gearbox. This is also a good time to replace the input and output bearing with a steel cage bearings (they are the same size bearing 3205) and to shim the shift drum if needed for smoother shifting. Also since you are about there, I'd replace the engine rear main that is now over 20 years old if it hasn't been replaced before. If you haven't been in a gearbox before, I suggest you do the work with someone that has done them before. Getting the gear shafts back in and the forks aligned can be a little tricky, not to mention getting the back cover on after removal. When you do go to remove the cover, Have the gearbox in neutral and remove the spring loaded detente for the shift drum that is on the left side of the gearbox. It will make life easier.
Click to expand...
Thanks John, I can take out the gear box and replace the main seal in the engine but have never messed with a gear box, I would be willing to ship it to get it redone, any ideas who could do it and how much it would cost?
 
The closest I can think of for you would be Harper's in Missouri. I don't know if they source the steel cage bearings, you might have to provide them, if so I can give you a source. You could try posting in the North Central section to see if someone can think of someone closer. Also you might try the calling the guys at MG Cycle, I don't think they do service work (I only am familiar with their parts business) but they may know of someone closer.
 
I wrote a little missive on the 5 speed box a while back when tearing down a 1000, the 1100s are not much different, I know I've done a sport 1100 box too.

Anyway for what its worth and if it helps take a look here. Also download the shimming the box article by Prof Roper, a far more able and experienced mechanic than I ever could be. I just wrote mine as a Gbx lite article to help those who had a fear of them. I did it because a mate helped me to strip mine and I'd never have managed on my own, so I thought it a good idea for others.

I'll leave you to be the judge

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzitech.dk/gb_en_complex-technical.htm

John
 
john zibell said:
This requires removal of the gearbox. The seal is an o-ring that resides in the back cover of the gearbox. Since you will have the gearbox out, check condition of the clutch, and I'd replace every seal and o-ring in the gearbox. This is also a good time to replace the input and output bearing with a steel cage bearings (they are the same size bearing 3205) and to shim the shift drum if needed for smoother shifting. Also since you are about there, I'd replace the engine rear main that is now over 20 years old if it hasn't been replaced before. If you haven't been in a gearbox before, I suggest you do the work with someone that has done them before. Getting the gear shafts back in and the forks aligned can be a little tricky, not to mention getting the back cover on after removal. When you do go to remove the cover, Have the gearbox in neutral and remove the spring loaded detente for the shift drum that is on the left side of the gearbox. It will make life easier.
Click to expand...
Can you give me the source and part # for the steel cage bearings, thanks
 
sorville said:
Can you give me the source and part # for the steel cage bearings, thanks
Click to expand...


I get them from Applied Bearing http://web.applied.com/ I'm having trouble with their web site right now. I suggest you find the closest office and call them direct. The bearing size is 25x52x20.6 Be sure to get the metal cage bearing. You don't want the plastic cage.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top