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Rear Break Locked up

Andre Dylan

Just got it firing!
Joined
May 3, 2016
Messages
4
Location
United Kingdoms
Dear All
I have e new California 1400 SE and i have just had the service 1000miles done
This week I was travelling and when I stopped to the traffic light i have start feeling the smell of burnt.
I did not know what it was then I have noticed that the motorcycle was slowing down...and when i strated to smell the motorbike to understand where it was coming from i have seen it was from the rear wheel.
I have then touched the break disk and it was super hot.
I have then noticed that actually the issue is the break pad were locked and the bike was breaking all the time
I have then tried to push and leave the break pedal multiple times and it seems that slightly the piston moved forward and the motorcycle break less than before

The motorcycle is still in manufactory guarantee but I wanted to ask you guys if you had similar problems?
i will call the dealer on monday to bring the motorcycle back but I was just wondering if you had this malfunction or it is just me being unlucky

I have also noticed that the piston and gasket was not into its position...

Any idea?
 
Take it to the Dealer as soon as possible. I would take some photographs of the components to document their current "locked" status.

I'm not sure exactly what you are describing in your last comment, but if the rubber boot is missing or not properly positioned that certainly is not correct, but even so I would think in such a short period of time there would be no damage from exposure to dirt, moisture, etc., unless you've been riding on the beach at the ocean.

Are the brake pads themselves "cocked" and/or is the caliper bolted down properly so there is no alignment concern from loose or shifted components?

Regardless, it's under warranty and an obvious safety factor so I would place it in the Shop's care for proper repairs. I would call this very uncommon as Guzzi components represent the Industry Standard and in general disc brakes are very reliable, "simple" in design and easy to service.

Good luck, be very interested in what the cause is determined to be.

Cheers
 
Thanks for your comment. I will take it to the dealer on Monday next week and see what it says.
I have managed to get the break pad going into the normal position. They seem to be quite consumed now looking to the thickness of the material.
I will not touch the break lever and ride to the dealer
I will keep you posted and I will also make some photos later today to post them here
Thanks
Andre
 
So sorry to hear about you troubles, glad you are safe. It sounds like the rear caliper locked up & there could be a number of causes.

Not your problem so yes get it to the dealer as soon as you can.

Curious, how many miles since the service was done?
 
For peace of mind, you surely need new pads and rotor and perhaps a new caliper also. I don't know anything about new Guzzis, but I know enough about brakes to know that can't be a typical malfunction on any vehicle otherwise there would be a safety recall.
 
It is also possible the master cylinder caused the issue by not allowing brake fluid to return.
 
Check the heat shield on the right header pipe for interference with brake pedal movement. Saw this once before. Had to notch the bottom of the heat shield for clearance.
 
Check the heat shield on the right header pipe for interference with brake pedal movement. Saw this once before. Had to notch the bottom of the heat shield for clearance.
 
When I have replaced my rear wheel after a tyre change, the brake pads tend to slip out of position
at one end, requiring repositioning before the brake calliper is slipped into place over the brake disk.
Perhaps the tech failed to notice this and the pads were cocked on reassembly.
Of course, if the wheel wasn't removed, this speculation is irrelevant.

Stephen
 
When I have replaced my rear wheel after a tyre change, the brake pads tend to slip out of position
at one end, requiring repositioning before the brake calliper is slipped into place over the brake disk.
Perhaps the tech failed to notice this and the pads were cocked on reassembly.
Of course, if the wheel wasn't removed, this speculation is irrelevant.

Stephen

I was thinking along the same lines that's why I asked how many miles since the service. In the orig post he said he just had the 1000 mile done but another post says it has 2000 on it. If it has been a 1000 since a tech touched it then it probably will be a mech failure. Never saw it on a bike but have seen car brake hoses close up and act like a one way check valve & lock up a caliper.
 
I was thinking along the same lines that's why I asked how many miles since the service. In the orig post he said he just had the 1000 mile done but another post says it has 2000 on it. If it has been a 1000 since a tech touched it then it probably will be a mech failure. Never saw it on a bike but have seen car brake hoses close up and act like a one way check valve & lock up a caliper.
The bike is too new but I have seen the return hole in the master cylinder plug up and lock the brakes. I also had a set of brake pads from a name brand manufacturer who's pads I like crack into pieces and drag the brakes. While I have seen the master cylinder failure on several bikes belonging to other people I have seen it and the pads on my own bikes.
 
Check the heat shield on the right header pipe for interference with brake pedal movement. Saw this once before. Had to notch the bottom of the heat shield for clearance.
This was also the case on mine, and I just "bent" it slightly for clearance. That said, having just removed the rear tire myself the last time to save the $110 per hour labor charge, is seems all too easy to bend the steel portion of the thin brake line on the rear. Especially if one does not know or follow the tricks to removing the tire easily. Just saying...
 
I learned some things about removing the rear wheel and posted them here in another thread ( https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/rear-wheel-removal-what-the-manual-doesnt-tell-you.15229/).

What "tricks" can you share with us?
Roadventure, it was your tips post that I was referring to( sorry I should have credited you for the sage advice) when speaking about the tricks. I can second the notion to remove the left shock and be SURE to get the bike UP on a stand or something so you do not have to remove the rear fender. I did use a long zip tie and hang the rear brake assembly rather than just lay it over the swingarm.
I will say again that the steel portion brake line on the rear assembly is very small and similarly easy to bend/crimp. I am thinking about sending Todd an email about creating a custom length full braided stainless hose (like the fronts) to replace the stock unit. I know I would spring for one.
Kirk
 
Roadventure, it was your tips post that I was referring to...

I am thinking about sending Todd an email about creating a custom length full braided stainless hose (like the fronts) to replace the stock unit. I know I would spring for one.
Kirk

Kirk,

Oh, okay. I was hoping that you had a more clever (easier) way to go about getting the rear wheel off. I think the idea of the full length of brake hose as you suggest would be a good idea, especially for someone who might have damaged the OEM tube.
 
This happened to me yesterday. Whilst riding through a local park, I felt my rear brake dragging.
If I hammered the rear brake and felt what believe is the ABS kick in, it would release.
When I got home the rear rotor obviously got overheated.
Today I looked over the caliper and removed the rear pads. I cleaned and lubed the brake pads retaining pin. The brake reservoir and lines looked fine.
I took it out for a spin and it felt like the brakes were still dragging and I hammered the rear brake again.
I also did the tire calibration setting (of which I never did since changing to Avon Cobras)
Put on 100 miles..no recurrence...........?


I have no idea..maybe the pads were binding on the retaining pin.

?
 
This happened to me yesterday. Whilst riding through a local park, I felt my rear brake dragging.

Could be the caliper pistons sticking or there is a post above about the heat shield on the header pipe interfering with the brake pedal.
 
FYI, when the cops tested this bike in Michigan:

"The Moto Guzzi California 1400 developed an issue due to lean angle contact with the rear brake pedal mount (rightside). This caused the rear brake to stick. Moto Guzzi engineers adjusted the mount. After the second test rider,
engineers also adjusted the riding “mode” from Turismo (touring) to Veloce (sport). The motorcycle completed the dynamics test without further incident."
 
FYI, when the cops tested this bike in Michigan:

"The Moto Guzzi California 1400 developed an issue due to lean angle contact with the rear brake pedal mount (rightside). This caused the rear brake to stick. Moto Guzzi engineers adjusted the mount. After the second test rider,
engineers also adjusted the riding “mode” from Turismo (touring) to Veloce (sport). The motorcycle completed the dynamics test without further incident."

Thanks! I will check it out.The first time it happened was after a sharp right.
 
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