• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Has anyone removed the rear signal indicator spacers?

Luciano_MG_V7Special

Luciano_MG_V7Special

Just got it firing!
Joined
Dec 21, 2015
Messages
8
Location
NY, USA
Hello,
i have been looking into removing the spacers to make the whole tail light look more compact.
Has anyone tried this before? Any ideas?
I took the tail light lens out to see inside the housing and the indicator wiring comes into the housing and down a hole and out underneath the fender.. I don't see an easy way to separate the wiring from the spacer as everything seems to be in a closed circuit.
Do I just splice the indicator wiring in order to take the spacer out? Is there a connector somewhere in the wiring i am not seeing? thanks!
 
Easy job all unclipps and looks so much better.

20160607_200212.jpg
 
I removed my front and back spacers. The front I unplugged the wiring. The rear I cut a slot with a Dremel in the spacer, probably could of unplugged it too but I had my Dremel handy. I also removed the light and cut off the bracket under the rear licence plate.
 
I also removed the spacers - I seem to remember that the wires to the rear indicators unplug from the bulb holders then pull through the spacer.
AndyB
 
You're correct Andy. The indicator wires are attached to the bulb holder using 0.011" spade connectors. They are easily removed and reconnected. The wires pull easily through the holes in the spacer. Signal arm assembly is sandwiched together with a very long bolt and acorn nut. This bolt will have to be replaced when you remove the spacer because it will be far too long.
 
I reversed the standard bolts and used stainless M6 Nylocs instead of the domed nuts..the bolt has a domed allen head and it looks better reversed than how it was originally fitted.
AndyB
 
andyb said:
I reversed the standard bolts and used stainless M6 Nylocs instead of the domed nuts..the bolt has a domed allen head and it looks better reversed than how it was originally fitted.
AndyB
Click to expand...
Same for me. Much cleaner look.
 
Last edited:
I kept the indicators in the same position on the rear lamp - as on the yellow V7 in the first photo - and simply reversed the bolts and used a nyloc (and washer) instead of the domed nut - the excess bolt length is inside the rear lamp cover.

I also moved the rear lamp higher by about 55mm - I used that measurement as the original holes for the rear lamp then became the holes for the rear number plate once enlarged....and I did not shorten the fender..... the fender now extends below the number plate by about 1" and just keeps spray off the rear seat.
Must take a photo......

AndyB
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top