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Battery light on

nose2wind

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Aug 14, 2013
Messages
94
Location
Frisco, TX
2000 V11-S, 70,000 miles. Light is on. Could someone refresh my memory on checking the regulator output vs the alternator to determine which one is bad?

Thanks
 
There are 2 yellow wires from the alternator. Use an Multimeter connected to these 2 wires. You should get about 20 volts AC at idle, and about 80 volts AC at 3,000 RPM. If you get that, the regulator is bad. If you don't get these voltage readings, then the stator is probably bad as the rotor is a permanent magnet.
 
Voltage Regulator bad. On that subject: Euro Moto Electrics has a disclaimer that voids warranty and doesn't recommend there regulators for use with Odyssey or Lithium Batteries. Any idea why this would be? I'm going to contact them and report back
 
Voltage Regulator bad. On that subject: Euro Moto Electrics has a disclaimer that voids warranty and doesn't recommend there regulators for use with Odyssey or Lithium Batteries. Any idea why this would be? I'm going to contact them and report back
Just covering their arse. AGM and Lithium batteries are very sensitive to overcharging. I also have a 2000 V11 s and due to the way it senses system voltage via the headlight circuit there is a good chance it will be overcharging the battery. If the battery is an AGM like an Odyssey then they are particularly sensitive to overcharging and will leak as mine did. The problem is there is around 1/2 to 1 volt drop in the headlight circuit which the std reg senses from compared to the actual battery voltage when the headlights are switched on. This causes the reg to think the system voltage is low so it starts charging at 15volts or more which kills the battery after a while.
Solution...run a separate circuit to power the headlights direct from the battery and add a couple of mini relays while your at it to take the load off the headlight switches.
Has your battery been leaking recently? any white powder around the battery area?

Ciao
 
It may be a moot point & I could have it wrong but from what I have seen by a quick glance at the wiring diagram, the voltage sensing is taken from the "headlight relay" but that relay is a misnomer. It is energized the entire time the ignition is on and the starter is not, it supplies power for most of the lights (brakes, tail and headlight)

It would appear that the sensing is taken upstream of the lights and switches so the headlight no matter if on or off should not affect it. However, what Phil states still holds good to a degree, as there will be some loss through the relay which will get worse with age. Running a separate line is definitely a good idea.

I do wonder if I am missing something as I've heard this stated several times about the headlight affecting the sensing, but unless the diagram is different from the reality, I for the life of me cannot see it.

John
 
It may be a moot point & I could have it wrong but from what I have seen by a quick glance at the wiring diagram, the voltage sensing is taken from the "headlight relay" but that relay is a misnomer. It is energized the entire time the ignition is on and the starter is not, it supplies power for most of the lights (brakes, tail and headlight)

It would appear that the sensing is taken upstream of the lights and switches so the headlight no matter if on or off should not affect it. However, what Phil states still holds good to a degree, as there will be some loss through the relay which will get worse with age. Running a separate line is definitely a good idea.

I do wonder if I am missing something as I've heard this stated several times about the headlight affecting the sensing, but unless the diagram is different from the reality, I for the life of me cannot see it.

John
Upstream doesn't matter John, when the lights are turned on there is a voltage drop in the circuit due to the inadequate size of the wiring and then the reg thinks the battery voltage is low. Its a known issue.

Ciao
 
Upstream doesn't matter John, when the lights are turned on there is a voltage drop in the circuit due to the inadequate size of the wiring and then the reg thinks the battery voltage is low. Its a known issue.

Ciao

Ok Thanks Phil, thinking about I can see how this might happen, if the wiring is sized too small up to the sensing line take off, then the current pulled would cause a volts drop along the cable up to the sensing point which would cause the effect you describe.

What I would be tempted to do is to use 2 relays which are switched from the Lo and Hi beam bar switch. That's a good deal more work but would relieve the current pull on the "Headlight Relay" and also the current passing through the bar switch.

That way you'd kill 3 birds with one stone

Let the sensing line see a more representative value of the battery voltage
Reduce the current through the bar switch and hence increase its life
Reduce the volts drop to the headlight resulting in brighter beams

John
 
Ok Thanks Phil, thinking about I can see how this might happen, if the wiring is sized too small up to the sensing line take off, then the current pulled would cause a volts drop along the cable up to the sensing point which would cause the effect you describe.

What I would be tempted to do is to use 2 relays which are switched from the Lo and Hi beam bar switch. That's a good deal more work but would relieve the current pull on the "Headlight Relay" and also the current passing through the bar switch.

That way you'd kill 3 birds with one stone

Let the sensing line see a more representative value of the battery voltage
Reduce the current through the bar switch and hence increase its life
Reduce the volts drop to the headlight resulting in brighter beams

John
Exactly John, and fit the mini relays (same as the std control ones under the seat) inside the headlight shell as I and others have done.

Ciao
 
I put a kit of 2 relays with wiring from Eastern Beaver on my current PC800 and one from Electrical connection on my prior PC800. I thought the Eastern Beaver kit looked smaller. It is but not by much. I just looked and I can't find the Electrical Connection unit. There was a noticeable increase in the brightness of the headlight. I am not sure but it seems like the life of the headlight became shorter which makes sense, more voltage=shorter life. I'll sacrifice some life span for more light.
They don't have to go in the headlight bucket as the wire to the bulb has some length to it but I have no idea how much. I did the install years ago and the PC has no headlight bucket.
 
Not really related, but apparently some modern cars use a pulsed voltage for the headlight. That allows the headlight bulb to last longer. You can't actually see the pulse, it appears solid on.
 
Reply about my inquiry:

Thank you for your inquiry and interest in Euro MotoElectrics.

Over the last 10 years of selling our charging system, our customers using ODYSSEY BATTERY have reported more charging system issues and battery issues (even explosions) , than with the use of a conventional lead acid or AGM battery.

Since Odyssey batteries are a very small share of the BMW MOTORRAD market, and such high rate of our customers that were using the Odyssey Battery were reporting voltage regulator / rectifier failures, battery failures,

Euro MotoElectrics decided not to support that battery’s technology, as well as Lithium Iron technology.

It’s our decision , based on anecdotal customer reports and warranty claims we paid for, to only support the use of lead acid / gel acid conventional batteries.

Do we know of customers that use the ODYSSEY battery with our EnDuraLast 450 charging system with success – probably; YES.

Are we sure that they are not having issues? No

Customers only tell you when they have a problem.


What we do know is that for a period of time 4-5 years ago, we had BMW motorcycle owners nationally and internationally reporting failures of either our Ducati Energia manufactured voltage regulator / rectifier included in the charging system, or the Odyssey battery.After paying out more than we preferred in warranty support parts, shipping costs all over the world and uncomplimentary blogs regarding our EDL450 charging system, Euro MotoElectrics decided not to further offer warranty support for same.


If a BMW motorcycle vehicle owner still prefer to use this battery – it is their choice, and their choice alone.

It is democratic capitalistic economy – the customer can vote with their $ what they want.

If they do not want our EnDuraLast Charging System because we will not offer warranty support with a battery we know other customers have had problem with, than it is their choice.

However, if they do vote to use our charging system with an Odyssey battery, than they do fully understand that they are on their own as far as warranty and service parts support.

Trust that explains Euro MotoElectrics position on this issue.

In addition, NO vehicle manufacturer has specified or recommended the use of LI IR or Dry Cell Design (Odyssey) batteries with conventional charging systems.
 
What I dont understand with all this is that as far as I'm aware and Odyssey batter is simply an AGM battery is it not? Is it somehow different from other AGM batteries. Mine look to be identical to the original Spark brand battery the bike came with new even down to the casting marks in the battery case. Only difference I can see is I opted for the one with the metal outer protective shroud.
Anyone have any info on this?

Ciao
 
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